Control Arm Bolts

[ShadowsPapa]

Be careful - I broke a BODY BOLT with this - not even 18" long (I think I measured it at 15")

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[Hootbro]

Be careful - I broke a BODY BOLT with this - not even 18" long (I think I measured it at 15")

Indestro Breaker Bar?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Indestro Breaker Bar?

Dang, you are good!
I've had that thing since the 1970s - even used short pipes on it over the years.

 

[Great Offender]

This thread reminds me..........

I was just short of going to #3 when I was convinced of the effectiveness and value in owning an impact wrench.
I don't know if I would have made a liquid out of the bolt since I wasn't going to use anything stronger than a propane torch. Bearings were always on my mind though.

I feel like I've been through all those stages of grief at at least one time or another!

 

[dayusmc]

They should just issue you an electronic impact gun when you buy a Jeep ..

 

[whiteglad]

I prefer a long breaker bar and cheater pipe over an impact gun which tends to stress the bolt and weaken it. For tightening, I apply high pressure chassis grease to the threads and shoulder of the end I will be tightening. A lot less torque is needed then compared to dry threads and shoulder.

 

[Great Offender]

I apply high pressure chassis grease to the threads and shoulder of the end I will be tightening. A lot less torque is needed then compared to dry threads and shoulder.

100% agree. Something I have been doing my whole life. Don't know if I was ever told to or saw/read it somewhere but I always felt it just made sense.

So I researched bolt stress and this seems to mostly be an issue with people attacking bolts too aggressively which I could also see happening with a breaker bar too. It was nothing personal because I fact check everything and I have to than you because the result was an excellent lesson on how to properly use an impact wrench on tough bolts without stressing or breaking them. There is logic to this but I think it could rest on the approach taken.

Edit: @whiteglad - Semper Fi and you have my respect for finishing!

 

[dayusmc]

I use engine assembly lube (Lucas) on all my bolt threads unless they require locetite. I have been using it for years on all the bolts on my dirtbikes. I wonder if high pressure grease is better.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Torque values are for DRY threads. You totally change the dynamics when using any lube at all.
In other words - it won't be correct torque/bolt stretch.
There's no reason for a lube of any kind on GOOD suspension and steering hardware.

If you use it - go find the correct chart for the torque values for lubricated bolts. You'll see a difference.

Torque + degrees isn't as bad, but still - you've changed how far the bolt or nut will turn before reaching that initial torque, and could over-stretch the bolt.

 

[Great Offender]

Torque values are for DRY threads. You totally change the dynamics when using any lube at all.
In other words - it won't be correct torque/bolt stretch.
There's no reason for a lube of any kind on GOOD suspension and steering hardware.

If you use it - go find the correct charge for the torque values for lubricated bolts. You'll see a difference.

Torque + degrees isn't as bad, but still - you've changed how far the bolt or nut will turn before reaching that initial torque, and could over-stretch the bolt.

Well I can boil this response down to two words: Thank You!

 

[SoK66]

Since 2009 I’ve gotten accustomed to torquing my JK’s control arm & track bar bolts to 125 ft lbs. When I planned the installation of a 1.5” TF spacer kit on my new ‘23 JT I looked up the torque specs and sighed….ain’t no way this old man can move anything to 190 ft lbs. I have a Dewalt 18v 1/2” impact that complains when asked to remove 110 ft lb lug nuts. (I learned why Tractor Supply had it on sale so cheap!) So, for the JT’s lower control arm bolts I dusted off my trusty old CP pneumatic 1/2” impact, fired up the compressor and zipped the bolts off like they were child’s play.

Now the fun part: How do I torque them back to spec? My torque wrench has 190 in its range, but my old body doesn’t. I blew out a shoulder 11 years ago torquing a control arm bolt on my JK. (It was a 125 ft lb bolt, but a 124 ft lb rotator cuff.) Surgery and eight months of PT cured me of being too particular. So, with impact in hand I cranked on the JT’s control arm bolts until they cried for their mommys. Done.

 

[Great Offender]

Since 2009 I’ve gotten accustomed to forging my JK’s control arm & track bar bolts to 125 ft lbs. When I planned the installation on a 1.5” TF spacer kit on my new ‘23 JT I looked up the torque specs and sighed….aint no way this old man can move anything to 190 ft lbs. I have a Dewalt 18v 1/2” impact that complains when asked to remove 110 ft lb lug nuts. (I learned why Tractor Supply had it on sale so cheap!) So, for the JT’s lower control arm bolts I dusted off my trusty old CP pneumatic 1/2” impact, fired up the compressor and zipped the bolts off like they were child’s play.

Now the fun part: How do I torque them back to spec? My torque wrench has 190 in its range, but my old body doesn’t. I blew out a shoulder 11 years ago torquing a control arm bolt on my JK. (It was a 125 ft lb bolt, but a 124 ft lb rotator cuff.) Surgery and eight months of Pt cured me of being too particular. So, with impact in hand I cranked on the JT’s control arm bolts until they cried for their mommys. Done.

Now there is a reason why I daydream these crazy ideas but I will keep the secret to my daydreaming under wraps for a while.

Could you, and i'm thinking out loud, use a small scissor jack under the torque wrench and slowly raise the jack thus tightening the bolt? Don't make too much fun of me lol it was the first thing that came to mind and in my head it works?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I wonder how many hundreds of truck, tractor, car, van, suv and other suspension bolts I've had in and out over the years. (including king pins on the big MidAmerican Energy boom trucks, although back then they were "Iowa Power" or something like that)
You do develop "tricks", such as a well placed hydraulic jack under a breaker bar or torque wrench, or like I've done with both of my JT's lower control arm bolts - jack stand and extensions so I could stand or even kneel (man, that's getting harder to do) by the truck and use my whole body into the torque wrench as needed.
It's a bit harder with torque + degrees or angle, but can be done if you mark things - mark your goal and apply pressure until things line up.
Upper arms are the @#$#$ these days, no real good tricks, can't get to them even with 100 extensions from out from under the truck, so I just have to bear it out.

I guess I just do it, don't have to think as much about it as it's sort of a matter of habit. If someone asks "how did you do that". I know starting point A was here, ending point F is over there, but B, C, D and E - I don't really even remember. I dunno, I just got there.

 

[dayusmc]

I use this...
https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/...MIjr6wtrbshAMVbXJHAR3jaQNDEAQYCSABEgIOrPD_BwE

 

[Great Offender]

@ShadowsPapa - thank you for confirming my fever dream of using a jack to move the wrench/bar.
I imagine it will be Thursday when I tackle this project again (1.5 spacer) and I'm sure I'll have issues with torquing the bolts. Now I'm headed to the garage to make sure my wrench goes to 180. I used it on my motorcycle so ?

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