Coverking Topliner - Review & Install

[JRobes]

If you go with some sort of spray adhesive, I'd personally try to find some that sprays really thick so that it has more of a goopy/slightly stretchy texture to it when it's sprayed on the hardtop. While the topliner is moulded to fit close to the roof contours, I don't think it's so perfect that it would touch off on all surfaces with the spray adhesive, so if it's a bit thick/goopy I think it'd have a better chance of touching the topliner in most places, or at least be able to stretch a bit after you'd pressure fit the top into all the recesses.

Just my thought. If you go that route make sure to let us know how it goes.

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[Viper501]

Given how thin the tape for adhering the liner is, I'm pretty comfortable with the conceptual use of spray adhesive. I bought a fresh can today and plan to spray it on both the top and the fabric liner, let it tack up, then press and roll it into place. If my sound deadener ever shows up I think it will bridge whatever gap there might have been between the fabric and the fiberglass. I'll report back with more specifics and results. In the meantime I'll be impatiently waiting on Fedex.

 

[Fishee]

Received mine a couple days ago and the box was DESTROYED! Luckily everything is still there. Didn't take the rear section out of the box but hopefully it's not mangled. These adhesive strips are a joke, no instructions at all just a paper that sends you to YouTube video. Thank goodness there are some pics here so I can try and figure it out. That video has a tiny thumbnail in the corner that briefly shows up and would be great IF the pieces were numbered like that...like wtf lol

 

[Viper501]

Agreed. Instructions are non-existent and the video is pretty marginal in its usefulness. I’m still working on getting the sound deadener installed. Got both of the removable panels covered but haven’t yet tackled the big portion of the roof. Was going to do that today but got sidetracked on my front bumper and the ASFIR skids.

 

[Fishee]

And I saw a couple people post that they were sent the JL adhesive strips by mistake and I'm thinking how the hell can you even tell? Lol well making some coffee and gonna tackle the freedom panels now

 

[Fishee]

Getting it laid out and I see a discrepancy in Coverking video. How did you guys do the strips on outside edge of freedom panels? The thumbnail compared to larger pic is the opposite. Seems like a lot of material would be flapping on outside edge if I went with option 1 with the 2 tabs on the edge as opposed to long strip along the edge. (Cat for scale)

 

[Viper501]

I finally got enough decent weather to do the freedom panel liners. I started a couple days ago with the butyl rubber / foil liners. The first step was to pull the Mopar liners and the associated Velcro. I then wiped down the fiberglass with the denatured alcohol (Probably overkill but just in case).

I then used the heat gun to form the rough contour of the fiberglass before removing the backer.

Once the main portion was reasonably formed, I cut some relief slots / wedges where there was obviously going to be some level of overlap. I then slowly pealed the paper away as I applied the sticky portion to the fiberglass. The heat gun was helpful in warming both surfaces to ensure the material flexed enough and was sticky enough. I slowly worked my way across the surface pulling the paper out from under as I went.

I then used the scraps to cover more of the fiberglass that would be covered by the CK liner. I test fit it a few times to make sure I got good coverage on as much as reasonably possible, especially large flat areas likely to resonate.

I repeated this for both panels. I budgeted one sheet for each panel and it worked out pretty close. I did have some small but usable leftovers. The panels are not symmetrical so you can’t make a mirror image pattern.

The next step was to apply the spray adhesive instead of using the tape that came with the kit. I bought a fresh can of adhesive at HD.

I also taped the areas I did not want adhesive on the panel and for potential overspray. It is important to read the instructions because you need to spray *BOTH* the panel and the fabric cover. Give it two minutes to tack up and then you have about 8 or 9 more minutes to get it applied. Taping up and test fitting were important to make sure the right stuff gets sprayed and the wrong stuff does not. The sprayer is *relatively* controllable but it can get wild.

After the first panel I realized that it would be a good idea to tape the openings on the fabric to keep adhesive from blowing through the openings to the other side. I also reworked the wrap around the posts to ensure I could get the tape off more quickly. I repeatedly test fit the fabric to the fiberglass to try to get as much fiberglass sprayed as possible without going over.

I also noticed that the smooth rubber foam surface pulled off when I removed the painters tape. While it was just the smooth surface and not all of the rubber I adjusted the masking for the next panel to try to avoid any of the tape adhesive sticking to the rubber. I also found a few small areas of the fabric that needed to be trimmed slightly.

I sprayed both the fiberglass and the fabric with a healthy coat of the adhesive.

During the tack up time I pulled the masking as quickly as possible. Once tacked up I applied the fabric and worked methodically with the roller to squish it all down across the panel and work the fabric against the fiberglass. The driver’s side was first and went very well. The passenger side went well but I did find some spots where the fabric was not in good contact with the fiberglass, especially in some of the deep corners. However, the appearance is good and the adhesion appears to be very good.

I also found a couple edges that were not as tightly adhered as I wanted. I worked those edges away from the panel and sprayed a small amount of adhesive on both sides, let it tack up, then manually applied it.

I used a razor to carefully clear any overlaps that interfered with the rotating latches. Very little trimming was needed to make sure the handles moved smoothly. I did notice the turning took more effort since there is slightly less clearance with the fabric in place.

The adhesive obviously has a VOC odor to it but it was not too bad. I put both panels back in the truck and left the windows open for several hours. It seemed to dissipate pretty quickly.

I’m going to work on the rest of the top later this week, I hope. Overall, I’m pretty pleased with the spray adhesive option.

 

[Viper501]

 

[Viper501]

To say my wife is skeptical of my mods is a monumental understatement. However, she rode in the JT for the first time today and almost immediately commented on how much quieter it is in the cabin and how she doesn’t have to shout to be heard. I’m looking forward to doing the rest of the hardtop and seeing the effect it is going to have for noise management.

 

[GRAN1TE JT]

Just installed mine last week, definitely worth the few month wait for it to come back in stock! It’s unbelievable how much nicer it makes the interior feel too.

 

[fourfa]

It's not possible to install the Topliner on the rear hardtop while on the vehicle right?

Prior to installing an Alu-Cab Canopy Camper, I didn't really have a problem with wind or road noise. Had I known how much more wind noise I'd end up with, I'd have done the Topliner (and as much sound deadening as possible) first thing. Now that the camper is bolted on and seam-sealed with a cubic arseload of sikaflex, it's not coming off, and neither is the hardtop

 

[JRobes]

I would 100% not advise installing it while on the vehicle. I'd probably invent a few new swear words if I had to attempt that.

You have access to probably 80% of it while on the vehicle, but all the tough spots (near the doors and at the front edge of the rear top) would be heavily blocked by the roll cage and roof speakers.

 

[staying_tuned]

It's not possible to install the Topliner on the rear hardtop while on the vehicle right?

Prior to installing an Alu-Cab Canopy Camper, I didn't really have a problem with wind or road noise. Had I known how much more wind noise I'd end up with, I'd have done the Topliner (and as much sound deadening as possible) first thing. Now that the camper is bolted on and seam-sealed with a cubic arseload of sikaflex, it's not coming off, and neither is the hardtop

With some patience I think it could be done. I think the main PITA areas would be that lip on the rear cab wall but if you pull the head inserts and drop the seats, it might not be too bad. I'd try it if I were in the same boat. We picked up quite a bit of noise after mounting the RTT on our rack and this helped a ton.

Here is that same rear shot, yeah, I don't see anything that would actually require it be removed outside of just being a super PITA but so is a dead pedal for some reason haha.

 

[staying_tuned]

I'd probably invent a few new swear words if I had to attempt that.

Affirmative. It would be such a PITA though it would transcend into lunacy which can be funny as long as he embraces the suck.

 

[fourfa]

Thanks, that's what I was figuring based on watching / reading install reports. I'll just go Hotheads and sound-deaden just under the panels, and call it good enough. I've got enough suck to embrace in other jeep projects, to be going out of my way to find more

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