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Cutting and welding differential for caster

JT Nate

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Does anyone know a shop in the Chicagoland area that cuts and re welds diffs for caster? I have a 24 rubicon x with a 3.5 in lift, Adam’s front DS, and 5.13’s. Still have vibrations at 60 with a 4.5 caster. Already have a thread open for that if you’re curious but I’ve tried everything. Without the FAD I feel this is my only option. Don’t wanna spend 6-10k for a high pinion front axle assembly. Hopefully someone has a guy 🙏. I’m willing to travel in the Midwest. Thanks in advance.
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Do you have adjustable control arms? What lift? You should be closer to 6° caster.
 

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Adding a fad is easy and cheap by comparison. You have everything but the shift motor and a 12v switch. The block off plate has a fixed fork holding the collar in place so all the internal parts are there. If you got the motor from the junk yard you could just cut the plug off the don't vehicle and then wire in a switch. Keeping it manual adds the benefit of leaving it off and shifting into 4LO...or 2LO at that point.
 
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JT Nate

JT Nate

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JT Nate

JT Nate

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Adding a fad is easy and cheap by comparison. You have everything but the shift motor and a 12v switch. The block off plate has a fixed fork holding the collar in place so all the internal parts are there. If you got the motor from the junk yard you could just cut the plug off the don't vehicle and then wire in a switch. Keeping it manual adds the benefit of leaving it off and shifting into 4LO...or 2LO at that point.
That’s an awesome idea. Didn’t know if it would work with the computer and the full time rock trac transfer case (24 rubicon x). Will that transfer case throw a wrench in it?
 

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Zachanadandy

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That’s an awesome idea. Didn’t know if it would work with the computer and the full time rock trac transfer case (24 rubicon x). Will that transfer case throw a wrench in it?
You'd want to make sure your fad switch was on in 4A as the slip would be hard on the clutches and probably freak the computer out. Otherwise it would work the same as a non-fulltime transfer case.
 

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Does anyone know a shop in the Chicagoland area that cuts and re welds diffs for caster? I have a 24 rubicon x with a 3.5 in lift, Adam’s front DS, and 5.13’s. Still have vibrations at 60 with a 4.5 caster. Already have a thread open for that if you’re curious but I’ve tried everything. Without the FAD I feel this is my only option. Don’t wanna spend 6-10k for a high pinion front axle assembly. Hopefully someone has a guy 🙏. I’m willing to travel in the Midwest. Thanks in advance.
Get a FAD install it have it initialized programmed add the switches ..get some control arms and lengthen them out to get ypur caster to @6° no need to cut and weld when the problem is simple to fix.
 

Stan H

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I do have adjustable control arms. It’s a Clayton 3.5 overland premium. I should not be closer to 6 caster. 24 and up do not have a FAD and I would be at a horrible operating angle for my front drive shaft at 6 degrees. I have a whole thread on this already. https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/2024-rubicon-x-vibration-after-gears.97358/
No you wouldn't the FAD has NOTHING to do with your caster angle. The BALL joints are at 6° which sets the pinion angle at 0° .. This is the Way.
 

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Does anyone know a shop in the Chicagoland area that cuts and re welds diffs for caster? I have a 24 rubicon x with a 3.5 in lift, Adam’s front DS, and 5.13’s. Still have vibrations at 60 with a 4.5 caster. Already have a thread open for that if you’re curious but I’ve tried everything. Without the FAD I feel this is my only option. Don’t wanna spend 6-10k for a high pinion front axle assembly. Hopefully someone has a guy 🙏. I’m willing to travel in the Midwest. Thanks in advance.
Look for a speed shop or custom fabrication shop maybe. It's going to be some set up costs and then some time too. Likely to still be in same ballpark on cost. A hydraulic press to install axle tubes isn't cheap or small. That is a big why the Ford 9 inch axles got popular in the past. You could press the C on the tube weld and position in Ford 9in and weld in. Same with using junkyard D60's and home shop choping. Decades ago I helped my uncle chop a few axles to put in several trucks. For farm and oilfield work and never to be running 70 miles a hour down the highway. That was in S. IL. Look for some local clubs maybe too. The reason why you keep hearing look into company X, Y or Z for built to spec axles. Yes there is several guys on utube who throw axles together and work because they have been doing it for many years. By the way a high pinion front axle is normally stronger in that configuration in some conditions. Why many YJ and TJ owners looked for earlier XJ axles. High pinion 30 vs low pinion 30. Food for thought.
 
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JT Nate

JT Nate

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Get a FAD install it have it initialized programmed add the switches ..get some control arms and lengthen them out to get ypur caster to @6° no need to cut and weld when the problem is simple to fix.
I have adjustable control arms. I didn’t know you could add the fad with the computer programming and all. Now that I know I will definitely go that route
 

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Curious, how does a FAD solve this? Isn't the front DS going to spin and cause vibration regardless?
 
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JT Nate

JT Nate

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No you wouldn't the FAD has NOTHING to do with your caster angle. The BALL joints are at 6° which sets the pinion angle at 0° .. This is the Way.
U don’t get it…no fad means constantly rotating driveshaft. At 6 degree caster the operating angle of the driveshaft is at 11 degrees. Hence the vibration from the driveshaft. Running a 4.5 caster makes the he vibration more tolerable with an operating angle of 7! I posted the thread that explains this all. A pinion of zero is not the way with a 3.5 in lift and no FAD
 

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No. Driveshaft does not rotate with FAD unless in 4wd (connected)
Okay if it does not have the 2 piece axle on thd FAD side ? Buy a us3d 2 piece axle and installed the FAD.
 

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Funny enough, I removed my FAD and coupled the axles together. I'm running an Adam's up front as well, but the FAD change did not seem to introduce or alter (for better or worse) any vibrations.

TBH, I was under the impression that no load/torque meant you wouldn't ever really experience vibrations...although it never really made sense because it's still rotating. Regardless, my vibrations came from the rear when I switched to an Adam's single piece at the same time. Despite replacing that with a custom built shaft...I'm still battling this around 75-80mph.

Anyways, I do have a FAD module and coupler ring...not sure if it makes sense to ship to Chicago, though. Probably a solid 10+ lbs easily.
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