Debating on which Performance Programmer to Purchase

[ShadowsPapa]

New to the forum and I have a similar question. Will AlfaODB and the OBDLink MX+ OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner make the changes for Bambi mode and tire sizes on a 2024 Gladiator?

You'll need the bypass cable to bypass the security gateway module.
Then it can change tire sizes........... Bambi mode? Like, the pole dancer, Bambi?
or the deer?

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[Vtur]

I don't know why many called their aftermarket air filter expose in a hot engine bay CAI. The factory air box supply more fresh air than an open filter in an engine bay. Should just call it an intake. CAI intake is when the filter expose to outside fresh air, like behind a fender, bumper etc

 

[Rusty PW]

Banks Pedal Monster to remap the the gas pedal. Banks Derringer to piggy back the ecu. Has 6 performance settings. Tazer NoLimitz to get rid of torque management.

 

[rgwiese]

You'll need the bypass cable to bypass the security gateway module.
Then it can change tire sizes........... Bambi mode? Like, the pole dancer, Bambi?
or the deer?

Bambi Mode is a term used in the Ford Truck community for a feature where the fog lights stay on when the high beams come on

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I don't know why many called their aftermarket air filter expose in a hot engine bay CAI. The factory air box supply more fresh air than an open filter in an engine bay. Should just call it an intake. CAI intake is when the filter expose to outside fresh air, like behind a fender, bumper etc

A friend gained a couple of tenths at the drag strip with his Ambassador 401 race car by making a big tube that went up to a big funnel in place of one of the 4 headlights All that engine got was air from outside the engine bay. But still, unless you RACE your JEEP, you aren't likely to notice any real difference - it's a placebo for modern engines used away from a drag strip.

Bambi Mode is a term used in the Ford Truck community for a feature where the fog lights stay on when the high beams come on

Fog lights don't really do anything in that case - not true fog lights. By the time a fog light indicates a deer, it's way too late. REAL fog lights don't shine out over a few feet from the bumper, they are aimed up close. It's amazing how people believe what they've been told in "communities". Science has proven - does no good. Too late for REAL fog lights. My high beams do shine out farther but also light up the road right in front of me and to the shoulders.
Last deer I hit jumped out onto the road and landed directly in front of me - no amount of light would have mattered. There was no time to react.
Besides, experts - not forum people, but REAL experts, say just keep on driving. Anything you do to try to avoid a deer almost always makes things worse. Hit it head-on, don't brake, don't swerve.
I live in deer country - at almost any given time, I can find their tracks between my garage and shop and have dozens of photos of them in my yard. The biggest risk for me is the last 500 feet from my driveway when driving home when they pop out of the woods at the edges of our yard and onto the road. Highbeams always work great for that - high beams make their eyes look like lights. Fog lights would never do that.

In any case, JSCAN and I believe AlfaOBD can both flip that setting.

https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/fog_lamps/fog_lamps.html

But foreground light is far less safety-critical than light cast well down the road into the distance, because at any significant speed (much above 25 mph), what's in the foreground is too close for you to do much about. That is, at normal road speeds, whatever is close enough to be within the foreground light is too close for you to avoid hitting. If you increase the foreground light (such as by turning on the fog lamps), your pupils react to the brighter pool of foreground light by constricting, which in turn substantially reduces your distance vision—especially since there's no increase in down-the-road distance light to go along with the increased foreground light. This is also the reason why it is not appropriate to have fog lamps lit with the high beam headlamps: if you're going fast enough to need high beams, you definitely don't want to spoil your distance vision by overly lighting the foreground.

So all in all, when we use front fog lamps inappropriately, we feel like our seeing is better than it really is and we unconsciously adjust our driving to match how safe we feel. That, in turn, makes us less safe!

Fog lamps of any type should not be used in dry weather. Leaving the fog lamps on at all times does not actually improve the lighting safety performance or the driver's ability to see, though many people do so in the mistaken belief that they can see better this way at normal road speeds in dry weather. In fact, a systematic study done by one of North America's preëminent traffic safety research institutes shows that in the United States more people inappropriately use their front fog lamps in dry weather than use them properly in poor weather.

Why? Because we human beings generally can't accurately tell how well or how poorly we see. We have subjective impressions, reactions, and feelings about how "good" or "bad" our headlamps are, and they feel very real to us, but they're very far out of line with the objective, measurable, real lighting performance and seeing ability. It's not that we're fooling ourselves, it's that our visual systems just aren't equipped to correctly assess how well or how poorly we can see. The primary driver for a subjective impression of "good" headlighting is foreground light—and remember, that's what fog lamps produce—but foreground light is very far down the list of factors that go into the actual, real safety performance of the car's lighting system; that is, how well it actually lets the driver see what must be seen to avoid a crash. In clear conditions, though it makes us feel (falsely) more secure, more foreground light is not a good thing, it's a bad thing. Of course, some foreground light is necessary so you can use your peripheral vision to see where you are relative to the road edges, the lane markings and that pothole 20 feet in front of your left wheels.

 

[Gizmo]

They can be changed to stay on with high beams. It does help with lighting up the sides of the road along with adding a little more light between the vehicle and up to where the high beams pick up. Plus it dont hurt a thing . I did it on the Rams just because I could figuring “ what can it hurt “ while you are in the computer to spend another 20 seconds

 

[rgwiese]

Which tuner did you use and did you have to have the bypass cable?

They can be changed to stay on with high beams. It does help with lighting up the sides of the road along with adding a little more light between the vehicle and up to where the high beams pick up. Plus it dont hurt a thing . I did it on the Rams just because I could figuring “ what can it hurt “ while you are in the computer to spend another 20 seconds

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Which tuner did you use and did you have to have the bypass cable?

It's NOT a tuner. It's software (or a Tazer, and tazer is not a tuner).
And yes, you must have the bypass cable to use any software to make changes to settings in the BCM and so on. No other way.
Tazer is its own bypass, so none needed with Tazer, but it's hardware, not software.
Tazer, JSCAN, AlfaOBD, are not tuners.
Tuners don't do such things.

 

[Gizmo]

I have only used alfaOBD. Like already said, its not a tuner.

 

[rgwiese]

It's NOT a tuner. It's software (or a Tazer, and tazer is not a tuner).
And yes, you must have the bypass cable to use any software to make changes to settings in the BCM and so on. No other way.
Tazer is its own bypass, so none needed with Tazer, but it's hardware, not software.
Tazer, JSCAN, AlfaOBD, are not tuners.
Tuners don't do such things.

Mea culpa for using the incorrect term

 

[jeepz4life]

This T2 Tuner is supposed to work with locked ECMs as well and does not require a SGW bypass module:
https://protuningusa.com/product/20...e-race-tuner-chip-power-tuning-programmer-t2/

 

[Mojave2021]

This T2 Tuner is supposed to work with locked ECMs as well and does not require a SGW bypass module:
https://protuningusa.com/product/20...e-race-tuner-chip-power-tuning-programmer-t2/

Would love to know if someone has successfully used this one. For now I’ve been living with the Pedal Monster as my only “performance” upgrade. I know it’s just a throttle controller but when the Pedal Monster is disabled the JT feels like it has lost about 100HP. I couldn’t live without it.

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