Diesel Full Compression Suspension Cycling Measurements

[@californiajeeping]

Check this out, pretty incredible what the system does:
So I've found that the shocks are all Walker Evans shocks, all the common parts are stocked and pretty easy to get. If the computer fails the shocks default to full stiff.

I want these but holy expensive.

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[ajkaz]

Quick Update! The new springs are holding right at 1.5" of lift. I will say the post TSB OEM Fox shocks work just fine with them. I do however notice much more road feedback and NVH with these springs. I'm going to find another option to try out. I'd like to find a spring with a similar lift height but a softer rate, somewhere between stock and these (188 in/lbs).

Hoping my shocks arrive next week and I'll test those with the springs before making any changes.

 

[krweatherl]

i totally agree with this. Hydro Bumps… when you bottom them out completely… they are bottomed out completely. The foam bumps- you can bottom them out completely…. But the bottom is a buffer- just depends on how hard you bottom out….

OP- good to know on the oil pan clearance….. this might make my plans change (a ways to go yet…. ) but I was planning to throw a truss on the artech apex is low- but still a couple inches off the tubes……. Was hoping to do a 2.5” kit- might look at 3.5-4”….

I have the Artec Apex truss (not installed yet), I pulled the springs and set it on the axle. Sitting on the Metal Cloak Durospring bump stops it makes contact.

 

[Rusty PW]

I have the Artec Apex truss (not installed yet), I pulled the springs and set it on the axle. Sitting on the Metal Cloak Durospring bump stops it makes contact.

Needs more bump stop for it to work. Hmmmm

 

[ajkaz]

Your going to need some serious lift height to get your up travel back after adding a couple more inches of bump stop. Maybe consider shock relocation so your not loosing travel as well.

 

[kilroy173]

I did not. I used the springs from this kit which if you scroll down and click on Bill of Materials you can click on the springs themselves and they were originally 2.5" coils for the Gas JK & JL, but have been tested on the diesel JT's. Its only been a day and 50 miles, but I'm happy with the spring rate and I'm right where I wanted to be for down travel. From an eye test the truck is perfectly level.

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-gladiator-15-leveling-kit-2020-jt

Are you running the factory upper control arms? Asking because I have the mopar lower control arms and Claytons .5 diesel front springs and like the ride, but might switch to the springs you're running when I add a winch.

 

[ajkaz]

Are you running the factory upper control arms? Asking because I have the mopar lower control arms and Claytons .5 diesel front springs and like the ride, but might switch to the springs you're running when I add a winch.

Yes factory uppers and Mopar lowers. I’m actually very impressed with the flex and ride quality out of the factory arms, light yard ahead of the JK.

 

[BlueScapegoat]

Hello All, After searching and not finding anything, I couldn’t see where anyone had fully cycled the stock suspension to get the actual shock measurements with the diesel as the bump towers are a different length.

This is on a ‘22 JTRD that came factory with the TSB for bottoming already addressed.

Here’s what I found, pics below:
At full compression w. bump stops bottomed out - 17.5” shock bolt hole center to bolt hole center.
-This left several inches of shock shaft showing it was tough to measure but its close to 2”, the specs on the shocks showed a 7.88” stroke. That means with the stock setup we only have 6.1” of Usable travel in the OEM shocks. Crazy!

Because of this when buying shocks for a diesel I wouldn’t buy anything with a compressed length less than 17.25”. Otherwise your wasting travel. Most companies are using these length shocks with a “3-4.5” lift. Always request extended and compressed lengths when buying shocks, dont listen to their advertised lift heights if you want to get the most out of your suspension. If a manufacturer doesn’t release that information dont trust them; @ICON.
Keep an eye on down travel and watch those brake lines, I safely achieved 26” of down travel without any wires or hoses pulling Too tight. Anything more than that and you’d need to loosen the brake/abs and possible locker wiring and diff vent.

Anyone know the droop limits of the factory driveshaft?

The axle tube literally sits in the curved depression of the upper oil pan that you can see from the front, you couldn’t get more up travel if you tried.

I swapped in the Clayton 1.5” Diesel Leveling springs, the Mopar Lift lower control arms and some extended sway bar links. With the Clayton springs on a stock JTRD the Jeep is exactly level, I gained exactly 1.5”. The spring rate is good, definitely firmer than stock but not jarring, they actually work well with the Fox Rubicon shock valving. I now have exactly 4” of up travel which is great, unfortunately I only have 2” of droop!

I’ll be adding .75” spacers in the rear to reduce squatting when loaded and adding some go fast shocks. Either SDI Eclick or Fox 3.0. I’d like to run with the Mojave & Raptor folks in Baja (even if at the back of the pack) and also play on the Rubicon and in Moab.

Maybe I missed it but do you have the exact stated shock lengths for the factory shocks? F/R compressed/extended?

 

[ajkaz]

I don’t but it’s readily available in many threads on OEM shock length.

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