AstroZombie
Well-Known Member
feather the brake pedal or double pump it when you stop the engine will never shut off.
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I suspect, just as Auto/S/S is disabled when cabin temp is not achieved or other factors, I suspect it would also avoid shut down when the temps are high as you mentioned.Well, if you have the diesel (and it looks like you do) The manual say to let it cool down before shutting off the engine to allow your turbo to cool a little. As soon as your engine shuts off, the oil flow in your turbo also stops, and can cook in a hot turbo. I believe the advice is to allow your turbo temp to drop below 400f before shutting down (I have a scanguage2 to see the turbo temp on mine). This is mentioned in the manual (though it give cooldown times rather than turbo Temps).
If auto stop/start is happening, the cool down period isn't happening.
Now, it may work forever without issues, but I disabled my auto stop/start for this reason.
Pic from Manual shows high temp is one of many reasons A.S.S. will NOT engage to protect engine, battery, comfort etcI suspect, just as Auto/S/S is disabled when cabin temp is not achieved or other factors, I suspect it would also avoid shut down when the temps are high as you mentioned.
The manual trans doesn't get rid of the AutoSS. Only thing that changes is it won't engage if it's not in neutral and clutch pressed down.install manual transmission
correct, but my clutch is always down at stops so the AutoSS as you call it (called "ESS" in my manual) is dead to me (and good riddance)The manual trans doesn't get rid of the AutoSS. Only thing that changes is it won't engage if it's not in neutral and clutch pressed down.
Damn, I simply learned where the front of my vehicle is and never worry about it. You get a sense of where it ends up there after a while.button twice and flip on the front camera to see if my winch is going to hit someone when I pull in a parking spot.
Unless you are wanting to use the Tazer live features, Jscan or AlfaOBD is less expensive for making adjustments.Think deeper. I bought an inline dongle and now regret it.
It works perfectly- but now I’m finding other things I want to tweak and am realizing that I’m gonna need a Tazer.
so money spent on the dongle was a waste (as Tazer has ASS eliminate also)
Yup - on my third JT and still haven't found a reason for the expense.Unless you are wanting to use the Tazer live features, Jscan or AlfaOBD is less expensive for making adjustments.
That's not real good for the throwout bearing.correct, but my clutch is always down at stops so the AutoSS as you call it (called "ESS" in my manual) is dead to me (and good riddance)
Nothing. Check the other thousands of posts. You can not press the pedal so hard and it won't shut off.Tazer - nuff said as it remembers.
I have noticed when AS/S is on, every time I come to a stop, the engine stops, and I need to immediately restart. I think the longest the engine has actually shut off for me is about 2 seconds, maybe 3. No gas savings and I am wondering what that does to the starter, fuel system, etc. long term.
A lot of things wear the throwout bearing, including normal driving. I've never had a problem and i have close to 60k on my Gladys. Then again, my stops tend not to be very long.That's not real good for the throwout bearing.
I've literally timed stop lights here at 2 minutes. That's a lot of idling with the clutch pedal down. And we can't forget the pilot bushing or bearing as well on some vehicles. It's one reason I adapted my 4.0 and T5 to use a ball bearing instead of the usual bronze bushing -all of the long stops here. Even at stop signs, you can be sitting for about a minute. The area is growing far faster than the supposed experts planned for (or actually never planned for)A lot of things wear the throwout bearing, including normal driving. I've never had a problem and i have close to 60k on my Gladys. Then again, my stops tend not to be very long.