Do MaxTow make a difference offroading (vs a non maxtow sport model).

[anavrinIV]

True, the Rubi comes with all that extra stuff....but it also comes with a bigger price tag !

It is also the only way to get a manual with the 4.10 wide axles. I was planning to get a sport but when configuring one the max tow adds the automatic. So not only do I not get the manual I want but I'm adding $3500 to the sport base just to get in the ballpark...add the 7" Uconnect that comes standard in a rubi and they're not that far off. At the end of the day I got out with all the rubicon additions for only a few thousand more than what an optioned sport would have cost, and I got it in my preferred drivetrain.

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[TrailRax]

I would highly recommend a max tow if it is available with the other options you wanted. The max tow package is basically having the wider rubicon axles with no lockers. You have a heavy-duty fan, trans cooler, alternator, and more. It is a great option if you plan on working with the stock axles off road. if you plan to be putting 1-ton axles in, it is a toss-up that I would struggle on deciding.

We went with the max tow packaged for the better cooling, alternator, and wider axles. those wider and heavier duty axles should play nice off-road.

 

[PyrPatriot]

I leased mine to keep it affordable at first, and to decide if I really liked it. Now that I've had it for about 4 months, I really like it. So I'm going to keep it in the stable for a long time.

I knew during the test drive I'd love driving the Jeep. I am already near 22k miles in 8mo. I didn't want the lease restricting me on how much I could drive. I think it is about 25c per mile over the 3yr/36k miles so at this rate I'd have 70k miles over my budget miles and owe $17k. Or does going over mileage not matter if you buy the vehicle from them? I think it would.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

I knew during the test drive I'd love driving the Jeep. I am already near 22k miles in 8mo. I didn't want the lease restricting me on how much I could drive. I think it is about 25c per mile over the 3yr/36k miles so at this rate I'd have 70k miles over my budget miles and owe $17k. Or does going over mileage not matter if you buy the vehicle from them? I think it would.

I had my 2017 Mustang GT for just shy of 3 years, and it rolled 12K miles as I pulled into the dealership to trade it for my JTR back in March. My lease offered the best rates if I put 12K or less PER YEAR. I laughed and said, "Hell, I doubt I'll put 12,000 miles on it in 3..." But they didn't offer one for less mileage than that.

 

[Benbean66]

I knew during the test drive I'd love driving the Jeep. I am already near 22k miles in 8mo. I didn't want the lease restricting me on how much I could drive. I think it is about 25c per mile over the 3yr/36k miles so at this rate I'd have 70k miles over my budget miles and owe $17k. Or does going over mileage not matter if you buy the vehicle from them? I think it would.

I'm hoping that it wouldn't matter, because that's what I'm banking on, lol!

 

[kelkolb]

I knew during the test drive I'd love driving the Jeep. I am already near 22k miles in 8mo. I didn't want the lease restricting me on how much I could drive. I think it is about 25c per mile over the 3yr/36k miles so at this rate I'd have 70k miles over my budget miles and owe $17k. Or does going over mileage not matter if you buy the vehicle from them? I think it would.

I leased because it was a first year vehicle and the lease deal was too good. After now having it a year I'm definitely going to buy it. Mileage over the lease limit only matters if you turn it back in.

 

[kickingaz]

I leased mine to keep it affordable at first, and to decide if I really liked it. Now that I've had it for about 4 months, I really like it. So I'm going to keep it in the stable for a long time. Once my lease it up, I plan on buying it, and the payment will still be very affordable then, because I will have paid a huge chunk of residual amount on my lease, that will go straight towards the negotiated price we agreed upon, before I signed paperwork at the dealership. So, when I do finally buy it out, I'll only owe about $28K on a truck that should still be worth around $40K (I don't put high miles on, or beat-up my vehicles). The Rubicons really hold a value over the other models. That's something I'd add into a consideration, despite the higher initial purchase price.

I'm not trying to sell you on anything, it's not my money, I've already signed my life away. I'm just tossing out info that is rarely discussed out in the open in the Jeep forums.

I leased my 2014 Rubicon X JKU and once I decided I was going to keep it, I converted the lease to a purchase so that I didn't make all the lease payments and then still owe the residual at the end of the lease. You might want to look into that.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

This is true, but it also holds a MUCH higher value over time, compared to all other Wrangler models.

I hate to be the one but I'll say this, for about the first 4 or 5 yrs I have noticed the Rubicon does better at holding it's value but at closer to the 10yr mark not so much. My buddies Rubicon with 125,000 miles on it didn't pull but $800 more than mine did when he sd his and bought a truck. Both his and mine as.at Hendricks for a round the the same price. Mine $18,100 and his for $18,300. I did not have lockers on mine but it was built about the same as his as far as looks go. Pulled some KKB stats as well. These are with me giving the Rubicon lockers and all the goodies and mine the factory options with oversize tires.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

I hate to be the one but I'll say this, for about the first 4 or 5 yrs I have noticed the Rubicon does better at holding it's value but at closer to the 10yr mark not so much. My buddies Rubicon with 125,000 miles on it didn't pull but $800 more than mine did when he sd his and bought a truck. Both his and mine as.at Hendricks for a round the the same price. Mine $18,100 and his for $18,300. I did not have lockers on mine but it was built about the same as his as far as looks go. Pulled some KKB stats as well. These are with me giving the Rubicon lockers and all the goodies and mine the factory options with oversize tires.

It would take me 20 years to put that kind of mileage on a personal vehicle (work-issued truck during the week). By that time, they’ll all be virtually worthless.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

It would take me 20 years to put that kind of mileage on a personal vehicle (work-issued truck during the week). By that time, they’ll all be virtually worthless.

Yeah i was just giving some insight. If I didn't have 3 vehicles in my yard after only 3yrs of owning my JKU I would of put over 250,000 miles on it easily in the 7yrs I owned it. I put 45,000 miles on it in the first year.

 

[DaddyG]

I leased mine to keep it affordable at first, and to decide if I really liked it. Now that I've had it for about 4 months, I really like it. So I'm going to keep it in the stable for a long time. Once my lease it up, I plan on buying it, and the payment will still be very affordable then, because I will have paid a huge chunk of residual amount on my lease, that will go straight towards the negotiated price we agreed upon, before I signed paperwork at the dealership. So, when I do finally buy it out, I'll only owe about $28K on a truck that should still be worth around $40K (I don't put high miles on, or beat-up my vehicles). The Rubicons really hold a value over the other models. That's something I'd add into a consideration, despite the higher initial purchase price.

I'm not trying to sell you on anything, it's not my money, I've already signed my life away. I'm just tossing out info that is rarely discussed out in the open in the Jeep forums.

I leased mine too (Sport S / Max tow) for two reasons.....I've never owned a jeep before except for a Grand Cherokee back in '04, so I wasn't sure if I'd like it (HELL YA, I do !) and second was the price.....I wanted the Wrangler, but they just weren't doing good numbers at the time......so, over time the Gladiator kinda grew on me, and the lease numbers I got were just the icing on the cake !

 

[Dwosgood]

Just my $.02, but I'm leasing my Max Tow Sport, because I am building a YJ up for the serious stuff, and wanted a JT to tow it around. I have lightly wheeled the stock JT, and I must say I am beyond impressed at it's capabilities. The limited slip rear that comes with the Max Tow package works extremely well, even when I was teetering on opposite wheels. I have no regrets about not getting a Rubi, and am happy with my low payments.

I’m in the same boat, building up my TJ and enjoying the luxury and towing capability of my JT Sport S. I’ve only leveled my JT to put 35s on it and it’s a blast to drive on and off road.

I’m leasing and will probably look into upgrading to a Mojave when the lease is up. But who knows.

 

[ForestTech]

interesting the way you say it and you did with the JTR, but honestly i'm on a budget and i would prefer to get what i can now and slowly start building it with the accessories, tires etc i want. Thats true Rubicon comes with a few stock advantages that would be difficult to add aftermarket. but we will see when i get the quote for both models. Thank you again for your words

For the extra price of the Rubicon model you can buy ARB lockers, quick disconnect sway bar links and a lift and tires, but you still mis out on the 4.1 transfercase.

 

[Texops]

All JT's have heavy duty axles & brakes , my Overland has the regular tow package that has everything the MAX tow has except 1.5" wider axle that helps in towing & 4.11 gears. they all have 32 spline axle shafts that are really big. it will off-road just as good but not better than the rubicon because lockers. i re-geared to 5.13's with 37's it is awesome like all JT's

 

[Blade1668]

Does the "Max-Tow" vs Sport/ S or Overland and Rubicon work better off road? Yes and No, 4:10 gear, might have Trac-Loc (depending on when built) in the case of mine not. Heavy duty coils not as much flex. Larger brakes a toss up until you add larger tires. Overlanding plus side.. more cargo capacity, JT Overland 18 in rim vs 17 ?? Personal choice but I'm for "shorter" rim farther from rocks can be a softer ride and as noted rocks less likely to damage them. Tire selections for 17 vs 18 in rim not a issue to many they plan to dump OEM rims and tires. Possible less $$ dropped on Max-Tow than Overland and Rubicon, T-case standard 2:72 vs 4:1 Rubicon depends on how and where you off-road. So if your planning on dumping. OEM tires, rims, suspension, stock axle gears and maybe axles. Is it worth getting anything other than Sport S? Does it matter? Is a Rubicon still a Rubicon if you dump all of that? Not throwing rocks here just some thoughts about it. FYI I'm getting over 23 MPG with Max-Tow but I'm not hot dogging or flogging it.
I was going to order and get Trac-Loc but I jumped on one that was almost exactly what I was going to order short of that and just had to replaced clutch and radiator hose, t-stat gasket in my LJ that's over 250000 miles and turned down a job offer overseas. Life is about making choice's of what you (and family) want or need. I decided I'd rather be in USA with my stuff, hobbies and closer to my friends I have for a change. Ego is what Ego is I guess after being around the world a lap or so does it for me. Literally on that 7 plus years in Europe and 3 plus in Middle East.

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