EcoDiesel turbo overheating

[Chief_jeep]

I would be surprised any dealership would put to written word and sign something along those lines. I doubt they have the authority to act on such things without Stellantis having a buy in.

Same but they are the ones recommending it. It never hurts to ask

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[Escape.idiocracy]

I’ve put 37k on mine with no derating or limp mode. I watch the temps but have never hit the limit and I drive fast up the sierras all summer. I have seen 255

as I’ve stated before: remove ALL engine coverings remove all hood seals and foam blocks. That step 1 and costs 0$.

then add a hood vent of some type.

Cut the factory air intake flap as it’s been known to suck shut when it gets hot and restrict airflow.

it works to keep items under hood from overheating including the engine itself but more importantly if you do overheat it cools down drastically faster!

Would you mind posting more info on this? ?

 

[@californiajeeping]

Would you mind posting more info on this? ?

Self explanatory stock airbox seal at the hood. Trim the flap so it can not restrict the opening at all.

 

[ptenereillo]

The dealership suggested the aftermarket oil cooler (in writing) and the AutoNation Carlsbad Jeep service manager relayed that recommendation to Jeep Customer Service, but when I picked up the vehicle there was no mention of it on the service record.

The more I think about it the more I'm convinced that my particular problem is a new problem, not some fundamental limitation of the EcoDiesel. I've used the same vehicle with the same cooling and same 37" tires, for 3 years, many long trips, many large grades, no issues.

The symptoms were the same both times, check engine light, service electronic throttle control warning, vehicle loses power and slows. Exact same road, exact same conditions. The first time they said it was the high pressure fuel pump (and after 22 days in the shop and replacement of not only the pump but the parts that the failed pump damaged) I still get the same symptoms.

The likelihood of a new unrelated problem (factory oil cooling can't support 37" tires) appearing with identical symptoms at the same time / road / conditions / etc as the HPFP issue is near zero.

I'm going with this => Either it didn't get fixed in the first place, or the process of "fixing" it broke something else, and the dealership is punting because it's too much hassle to try to reproduce the issue.

 

[DylanM]

Could you ask the dealer for the fault code they say they saw? Did you happen to see what your oil temperature was when the derate problem occurred?

I know you said the dealer told you they checked the wire harness near the DPF and transmission, but you may still want to have a look for yourself to make sure it's not resting on the EGR pipe flange.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Self explanatory stock airbox seal at the hood. Trim the flap so it can not restrict the opening at all.

The rubber in the photo?? Man, I thought this focused the air draw to be pulled through the holes to the side of the air box…. Being colder air than drawing directly from the hot engine bay??

Scan gauge reads the air intake temps…. Would want to see a before and after before pulling this off.

kind of reminds me of high school when kids would drill holes in the bottom portion of their air box for “more flow”

“High flow air box” ??

 

[@californiajeeping]

The rubber in the photo?? Man, I thought this focused the air draw to be pulled through the holes to the side of the air box…. Being colder air than drawing directly from the hot engine bay??

Scan gauge reads the air intake temps…. Would want to see a before and after before pulling this off.

kind of reminds me of high school when kids would drill holes in the bottom portion of their air box for “more flow”

“High flow air box” ??

The flap can sag and block the inlet. I have a completely open airbox under the hood and the intake temps are same as stock. Why? You have a 2000 degree turbine turning your 90 degree air into 400. 20 degrees on the inlet temp does nothing until we have larger intercooler available

 

[ptenereillo]

Could you ask the dealer for the fault code they say they saw? Did you happen to see what your oil temperature was when the derate problem occurred?

I know you said the dealer told you they checked the wire harness near the DPF and transmission, but you may still want to have a look for yourself to make sure it's not resting on the EGR pipe flange.

Thanks Dylan. I brought it to a different dealership, which is owned by my friend. I think they will put in some more effort. The service record / receipt says the code was C121C-00 but I Googled that and it doesn't seem to match what they told me about the turbo temp.

 

[caryt]

I need to check that flap..but it looks like plastic and not thin so how is it going to sag?
Many have tested all the hood removal and add's and none seemed to make any conclusive difference.

 

[@californiajeeping]

I need to check that flap..but it looks like plastic and not thin so how is it going to sag?
Many have tested all the hood removal and add's and none seemed to make any conclusive difference.

gets super hot under the hood when these things overheat. It’s been documented on here. Trim the flap back to allow more air in and prevent it from sagging.

 

[JamesWyatt]

Would a 2024 grill allow in more air? Increasing airflow still sounds like a drop in the bucket versus a re-gear.

I'm surprised Jeep offered you $3K to sign a release on the repair. Betting they're worried about a VW diesel type settlement in the future that you might be excluding yourself from if you sign that. I bet they know the repair is not a full and permanent fix for the issue.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Do you have Jscan?
Asking because it’s a new tool to me…. But the parameters it allows you to view are pretty in depth….
I am going to attach a screen shot of the view offered during a manual DPF regen…. And there are LOTS more you can view live under normal driving….

I would be curious to see what your pre turbo temps are to validate actual turbo overheating…. And in addition to this injector performance.

diesels are pretty basic air and fuel in, compress, expel. So if the turbo is getting hot, but oil parameters are staying within spec, I would be looking to what’s going on with fuel and air…. Is the motor dumping too much fuel? Maybe the fuel pump they put in has a bad regulator…. Adding a photo of a cp4 high pressure regulator…. They do go bad- (photo is out of a VW cp4…)

Thought with this is too much or improperly matched fuel to air causes excessive EGT temps….. egt temps being pre turbo/manifold temps…. And theoretically cause the turbo to get too hot.

jscan would allow you to see the temps by bank to validate this thought.

^^^ this is two small screws/bolts to remove/replace if this is the issue… this should also be where the “screens” are located when the dealer inspects for metal.
I am not sure electronically how this could be tested, but it could be verified by “flow” of fuel comparing against a known good unit…. - dealer should have the fuel parameters, just might not be thinking of this particular component through diagnostic.
First hand can tell you this will not generate a code on a VW/Audi…. But on a deleted car will cause excessive smoke and high EGT’s

 

[maSS-hole]

Do you have Jscan?
Asking because it’s a new tool to me…. But the parameters it allows you to view are pretty in depth….
I am going to attach a screen shot of the view offered during a manual DPF regen…. And there are LOTS more you can view live under normal driving….

I would be curious to see what your pre turbo temps are to validate actual turbo overheating…. And in addition to this injector performance.

diesels are pretty basic air and fuel in, compress, expel. So if the turbo is getting hot, but oil parameters are staying within spec, I would be looking to what’s going on with fuel and air…. Is the motor dumping too much fuel? Maybe the fuel pump they put in has a bad regulator…. Adding a photo of a cp4 high pressure regulator…. They do go bad- (photo is out of a VW cp4…)

Thought with this is too much or improperly matched fuel to air causes excessive EGT temps….. egt temps being pre turbo/manifold temps…. And theoretically cause the turbo to get too hot.

jscan would allow you to see the temps by bank to validate this thought.

^^^ this is two small screws/bolts to remove/replace if this is the issue… this should also be where the “screens” are located when the dealer inspects for metal.
I am not sure electronically how this could be tested, but it could be verified by “flow” of fuel comparing against a known good unit…. - dealer should have the fuel parameters, just might not be thinking of this particular component through diagnostic.
First hand can tell you this will not generate a code on a VW/Audi…. But on a deleted car will cause excessive smoke and high EGT’s

If the motor was dumping too much fuel, wouldn't that produce additional power unless it was an insanely low AFR? I would think that would be noticeable.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

If the motor was dumping too much fuel, wouldn't that produce additional power unless it was an insanely low AFR? I would think that would be noticeable.

I understand your thought process, but it doesn’t take much for things to be thrown off from a burn perspective causing higher EGT’s and potentially an overheated turbo.

Can power be made by simply turning up fuel? Yes.
can power be made by jacking up boost? Yes.

The ratio in which it’s done is how the power gain is efficient and “clean” by adding fuel and air perspectively to make gains.

Is the power going to be noticeable? Maybe to someone who is jumping from a different diesel would they be able to tell the difference. But otherwise I don’t think so. My justification for this statement is this: I have two ecodiesels in my driveway right now, I drive the gray one and not the green one. The green one “feels” more peppy…. But this is how it’s driven. The gray one is highway cruise control the green one is around town…. (I say this knowing that the differences are learned habits of the transmission and not the motors “power”) I can tell the difference by jumping seats…. But didn’t realize the difference until doing that… otherwise both drive by their drivers as they should.

 

[RandyP111]

I have a 2022 jeep gladiator sport S Ecodiesel. I have had several issues including symptoms like yours. While on a hunting trip, October 4th, 2023, with less than 8,000 miles, I had the symptoms of HPFP failure, i.e. erratic idle surge, stall, CEL, low fuel pressure on high pressure side light. I stopped my trip, after shut off and waiting a half hour, I drove cautiously home, about 150 miles. I contacted dealer to assess the lights, read stored faults, and clear CEL. They could not even look at my vehicle till after Thanksgiving. Eight weeks. I started searching for my own solutions, and got on the factory safety recall list. I called every week, no parts available for HPFP, and no ETA for service. I did not drive my Gladiator that entire time, even though the Factory recall assistance people, the dealer people, and most of the people on this web site said "just drive it till you break it!" Not wanting to have metal glitter from fuel pump to fuel tank to fuel injectors and finally in engine, I did not drive it for 68 days. I did not trust any of this advice, and I did not trust that the replacement CP4.2 HPFP would be any better than the original. You can check on this site to see how many victims have already found that to be true. I bought a rebuilt, improved CP4.2 called CPX from RCD, no commercials you can look it up if you want. It was the only replacement fuel pump I could actually buy and install myself which is legal, federally protected for warranty and recall, and installed it.
This is the part that will interest you Ptenereillo, I had a trusted private mechanic install the HPFP, and it works flawlessly so far, 5 weeks, about a thousand miles. BUT...on day after the repair was completed, and about 5 hours of local driving, maybe 150 miles, I had EXACTLY the symptoms you are describing and the same odd warnings and lights, all symptoms of overheating and eventually limp mode. As you described, a pull over and shut down wait five minutes would allow further/normal operation for 10 minutes or so then it happened again. I limped home and had it towed back to my mechanic on Monday, next day. I had one other symptom from this episode, my heater would shut off and run full cold with no adjustment during all of this and it was very cold out, low 20's here. I described all to my mechanic and pointed out that oil was full, coolant, seemed cool/full, but my engine and oil temps on the read outs were high, as much as 290 when I pulled over and shut down. I believed they were faulty readouts, forcing overheat limp mode, and probably a sensor moved, not secured, and maybe too close to the passenger exhaust side. That occurred during the HPFP replacement/service, and mechanic found that one pin was bent during re connect, and he also felt that a coolant "burp" had contributed and it took 6 oz or so to top it to the max line. I believe Jefe 1018's comment for you was right on too, and a handful of others on this site have had a sensor dangling or not connected problem too. Anyway, I am happily driving, unrestricted, unbothered by lights or symptoms for over a month now and I will knock on my old wooden head and hope this helps you or someone else. RandyP111

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