Engine Break In Procedure?

[Renegade]

here is the KEY: Its all about exercise. You work out or have or gone to the gym etc. So what do you do. You exercise your Arms, legs, stomach, your whole body, RIGHT, if not you are wasting your time...arms like Popeye do no good on top of legs like a hummingbird!

Then same same applies to your new engine and now its 0- max rpm. WHY?

Seen folks jump in a new car and drive at 60 mph @2400 rpm for hours, breaking in a that speed and rpm means Popeye arms and Hummingbird legs.

Begin slowly going upand down thru the gears, shifting at higher and higher rpms as time and miles go by.

Today's modern engine need very little time to break in due to CNC and tolerances a 100x tighter than they were back in the 50-80's. Exercise your engine just by going up and down thru the gears and moderately accelerating. Key being to not drive for long times at the same rpm. Drop down a gear to pick up more rpm at the same speed.

Give a break-in of 250 mi and you are good to go

Are modern car engines made of muscle tissue? Do they regenerate more tissue as the muscle fibers are torn from exercise? I guess I’m not understanding the analogy. I believe the engineers who provide input for the owners manual, although it does still make me feel better by doing an initial oil change at 1,000 miles. I just feel better having the initial volume of sheared metal removed. Then I start increasing the load and RPMs. I could be totally wrong in my approach. It’s based on motorcycle racing engines from the ‘90s...

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[Hootbro]

Are modern car engines made of muscle tissue? Do they regenerate more tissue as the muscle fibers are torn from exercise? I guess I’m not understanding the analogy. I believe the engineers who provide input for the owners manual, although it does still make me feel better by doing an initial oil change at 1,000 miles. I just feel better having the initial volume of sheared metal removed. Then I start increasing the load and RPMs. I could be totally wrong in my approach. It’s based on motorcycle racing engines from the ‘90s...

Do whatever you want, but it is a placebo affect to change engine oil early for just about all modern passenger vehicle engines. The oil filter will catch anything of size that would be of harm and remaining wear metals not caught will be in suspension with the oil in such small enough size to never be an issue.

Racing applications are a different reasoning and methodology for changing early but it does not necessarily translate to best practices to passenger vehicle engines. The simple fact is that there is way many more variable to how we treat and maintain our vehicles over the course of it's life that will impact engine longevity than the "feelz" we get changing oil early.

 

[Renegade]

Do whatever you want, but it is a placebo affect to change engine oil early for just about all modern passenger vehicle engines. The oil filter will catch anything of size that would be of harm and remaining wear metals not caught will be in suspension with the oil in such small enough size to never be an issue.

Racing applications are a different reasoning and methodology for changing early but it does not necessarily translate to best practices to passenger vehicle engines. The simple fact is that there is way many more variable to how we treat and maintain our vehicles over the course of it's life that will impact engine longevity than the "feelz" we get changing oil early.

I don’t disagree with you. The only thing that was haunting me was having to replace a camshaft cam follower/rocker in the engines of my last 2 JKs due to roller bearing failures. Was excess metal during break-in the cause? Likely not, but the $35 I spent on the early oil change made me feel better.

 

[TheSolarWizard]

Since my first Jeep in 1998, I’ve changed the oil filter at 2k, the oil + filter at 5k and then followed scheduled maintenance until the warranty is gone. After that every 6 months filter + oil regardless of mileage (synthetic only+ premium filter) and I’ve NEVER had oil or engine issue across multiple brands.

 

[Bluezlgnd]

I know when you put in new gears you are supposed to change the diff fluid after 500 miles, makes sense that it would be the same for a new vehicle but I don't see anything on here about when the first diff fluid change should be done. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Hootbro]

I know when you put in new gears you are supposed to change the diff fluid after 500 miles, makes sense that it would be the same for a new vehicle but I don't see anything on here about when the first diff fluid change should be done. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

It is in the owners manual that can be had on Jeep.com in PDF format.

There is no early drain/fill recommendation. Basically it is an inspection every 20K miles and replacement if severe service every 40K miles. For me, I split the difference and just stick to a 30K mile change interval regardless.

 

[RedGlad]

My first oil change light went on at 6000 miles. Big suprise after the service my gas milage went from 15 MPG to 18 MPG around town after the first service. Is ther some kind of engine damper switch to protect the engine before during the break in period?

 

[Hootbro]

My first oil change light went on at 6000 miles. Big suprise after the service my gas milage went from 15 MPG to 18 MPG around town after the first service. Is ther some kind of engine damper switch to protect the engine before during the break in period?

Fresh oil change alone is not going to give you a 3 MPG increase in efficiency. A lot of external things can come into play like winter/summer gas formulas, cold weather change with denser air and even unnoticed better driving habits can play into it. Also, your engine is actually settling and wearing in and can be a combination of previously mentioned things to give a placebo affect that one thing alone gave you all the MPG increase.

 

[talljeeper]

I will just change the oil filter and top off with some Amsoil at 1500 miles, then do another filter and oil change at 3k miles. There is no factory voodoo or magic lubricants. A clean engine is a happy engine. If you dump the factory oil after a good break-in, use a lubricant that is within factory specs. Pretty Simple. Dont overthink this. I dont sell Amsoil...but it hands down its the best.

 

[WhatExit?]

I’m sorry but this is flat out wrong...

The initial oil put in at the factory is the same thing you buy at your local auto parts store.

I built a home for a leading scientist with Ethyl Oil Company. They make the additive packages for most of your major oil companies and he told me that the best brake in procedure for modern engines is to follow the break in procedure in your Manual and change the oil at around 2000 miles after the various metal components have had a chance to mate to each other.

The old myth of running a break in oil (usually a straight weight oil) no longer applies with the improvements in oil composition and better machining.

I talked to someone who told me something too. Seriously, this topic is as old as the oil in the ground and the best/right answer is do what makes you happy. It's your truck

 

[e36racer]

What happened to the old saying, an engine broken in hard runs hard?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I’m sorry but this is flat out wrong...

The initial oil put in at the factory is the same thing you buy at your local auto parts store.

I built a home for a leading scientist with Ethyl Oil Company. They make the additive packages for most of your major oil companies and he told me that the best brake in procedure for modern engines is to follow the break in procedure in your Manual and change the oil at around 2000 miles after the various metal components have had a chance to mate to each other.

The old myth of running a break in oil (usually a straight weight oil) no longer applies with the improvements in oil composition and better machining.

You are correct, he was correct. This explains a lot. There's no such thing as break-in oil other than it's the first oil used at break-in. Nothing special or different. You WANT wear at break-in.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

 

[ShadowsPapa]

What happened to the old saying, an engine broken in hard runs hard?

That was never true. I am trained in engine building and have done auto repair from engines, overhauls, transmissions, etc. for decades.
You follow the ring manufacturer's break-in, which is a few heavy throttle accels in a high gear (no lugging, but no smacking it in low gear) to force the rings against the cylinder walls, vary the speeds, etc. and then drive it.
Doesn't matter breaking it in hard as long as you do it correctly, it can be driven however.
I have a book from Dana/Perfect Circle on rings and engine break-in. Once broke in - and that takes only a few miles honestly, it's ready for whatever driving you do.
I build them, follow the book, and turn them loose.
Too many old wives' tales out there on engine break-in. Too bad trained engine builders seldom set things straight.

 

[Oscar Indy]

Too many old wives' tales out there on engine break-in. Too bad trained engine builders seldom set things straight.

^^ this guy gets it.
Truth is your engine is broken in before you take delivery. If it was PDI'd properly you are GTG.

Ask for this sheet on your vehicle. See how many miles they put on it for the inspection. Proper procedure is to run it thru every gear. If this is done just drive it.

 

[WhatExit?]

Thank God for oil-related threads on forums - every forum needs 'em and we gottem

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