Factory Aux switch fuses - other than factory fuse rating

[ShadowsPapa]

I am not using a buss bar for any item on the Aux switches. I do not need 40 amps for aux 1 or 2. Having a fuse wait until it hits 40 amps to blow could cause a fire. I want to protect the weakest link which is a small wire at about 5 amp capacity. My first posts sounded a little confusing.



so do these have a specific ‘size’ class or distinction then? Or can I just get a 15 amp M case fuse? it might be a little trial and error.

Yeah, some of us like to keep it simple with any fuses in the fuse panel, not along wires somewhere.

With my wiring here, for example - I don't want to have to put an inline fuse in the wires - these are all home-run to the destination. I don't want fuse holders hanging around or some place to look other than "hey, #4 stopped working" - simple, look to that position in the panel.
We each have our preference and it's interesting to see instead of "here's how to achieve your goal"............

Two of these do a quick dive down to the frame and then back - inside the frame. To fuse them with an inline, I'd need more wire sticking up with the ability to pull up the fuse holder and check or change the fuse. It's more stuff. These are clean wires, no breaks at all from the point they leave the terminal to the point the get back to the stuff they feed.
Holders would mean something hanging off this area.
Sorry, guys, not for me. I'm an integration type - check my car - everything goes through the Jeep PDC I installed. No fuse holders anywhere. In fact, some of the car's fuse panel isn't even used. Factory fog lights go through the PDC fuse and relay instead of the car's factory relay on the fender.

Clean, simple, the wires dive almost straight down to the frame and then back.
I know where the trouble is by simply putting a test light on the appropriate terminal. I'm even making custom labels to get rid of my crappy writing.