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Factory Aux switch fuses - other than factory fuse rating

ShadowsPapa

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I am not using a buss bar for any item on the Aux switches. I do not need 40 amps for aux 1 or 2. Having a fuse wait until it hits 40 amps to blow could cause a fire. I want to protect the weakest link which is a small wire at about 5 amp capacity. My first posts sounded a little confusing.



so do these have a specific ā€˜sizeā€™ class or distinction then? Or can I just get a 15 amp M case fuse? it might be a little trial and error.
Yeah, some of us like to keep it simple with any fuses in the fuse panel, not along wires somewhere.

With my wiring here, for example - I don't want to have to put an inline fuse in the wires - these are all home-run to the destination. I don't want fuse holders hanging around or some place to look other than "hey, #4 stopped working" - simple, look to that position in the panel.
We each have our preference and it's interesting to see instead of "here's how to achieve your goal"............

Two of these do a quick dive down to the frame and then back - inside the frame. To fuse them with an inline, I'd need more wire sticking up with the ability to pull up the fuse holder and check or change the fuse. It's more stuff. These are clean wires, no breaks at all from the point they leave the terminal to the point the get back to the stuff they feed.
Holders would mean something hanging off this area.
Sorry, guys, not for me. I'm an integration type - check my car - everything goes through the Jeep PDC I installed. No fuse holders anywhere. In fact, some of the car's fuse panel isn't even used. Factory fog lights go through the PDC fuse and relay instead of the car's factory relay on the fender.

Clean, simple, the wires dive almost straight down to the frame and then back.
I know where the trouble is by simply putting a test light on the appropriate terminal. I'm even making custom labels to get rid of my crappy writing.

Jeep Gladiator Factory Aux switch fuses - other than factory fuse rating 1674851280488
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johnchabin

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Switches 1 &2 I believe are 40 amps
Switches 3 & 4 I think are 15 amps
Is this information correct? Iā€™m having a hard time finding amperage for the 4 aux switches. Is it documented somewhere?

Thanks!
 
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chorky

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Is this information correct? Iā€™m having a hard time finding amperage for the 4 aux switches. Is it documented somewhere?

Thanks!
The owners manual contains a lot of good information. Give it a read if you have it. It can be downloaded online as well, along with a radio manual and other information.

Jeep Gladiator Factory Aux switch fuses - other than factory fuse rating Screenshot 2024-02-09 at 07.51.49
 

ShadowsPapa

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The owners manual contains a lot of good information. Give it a read if you have it. It can be downloaded online as well, along with a radio manual and other information.

Jeep Gladiator Factory Aux switch fuses - other than factory fuse rating Screenshot 2024-02-09 at 07.51.49
Absolutely - that, and this, from the fuse panel legend under the PDC cover ->

Jeep Gladiator Factory Aux switch fuses - other than factory fuse rating 1707491396582


So anyone connecting lighting and wiring that is a smaller gauge (larger numerically) you can downsize the fuse. Say you connect to the 40 amp switch but your wiring to the lights is only capable of 20 amps - smart to downsize the fuse.
 
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chorky

chorky

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Absolutely - that, and this, from the fuse panel legend under the PDC cover ->

Jeep Gladiator Factory Aux switch fuses - other than factory fuse rating 1707491396582


So anyone connecting lighting and wiring that is a smaller gauge (larger numerically) you can downsize the fuse. Say you connect to the 40 amp switch but your wiring to the lights is only capable of 20 amps - smart to downsize the fuse.
Excellent point. I know @AllMoparParts.com mentioned in another thread what these fuse types were, can't remember now. I never did downsize mine, but certainly would like to. Although I still have no clue what amp draw the warn solenoid activation pulls. And I dont think the 'block' fuses as I call them, go down below 10a. I would like to find some at 15 though.

Side note I contacted Warn because this convo reminded me to ask what the amp draw for their interrupt solenoid is. They refused to provide specs. Saying they cannot and will not provide specifications for non commercial use. And for commercial use they do not have interrupt solenoids and therefore have no specs to offer. When questioning between the solenoid replacement (6001) and the interrupt kit (62132), I asked specifically what if any is the difference between the solenoids of those two numbers. They again refused to answer. So I asked in a different way - what wire gauge they recommend for the solenoid activation. They said 1 or 2 ga for the winch, not understanding my question I asked again and they stated 14 ga for the the activation side of the solenoid.

Long story short - I no longer consider Warn a industry leader, and probably will never get any of their winches seeing as how this is the 3rd time in contacting them that they have refused to give me any specifications. Any company selling anything that is unable or unwilling to provide specs is not a company I wish to deal with.
 

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All good points, their customer service is pretty awful. But if you want the specifications - I was able to find those searching fairly deep around the web. (pasting from the last time I shared this)-

The Warn 62132 power interrupt kit appears to be an Ametek SAS-4214. Warn (as typical for them) doesn't commit to any ratings at all in their docs. If you follow the datasheet and application guide the 4214 is only rated for 100A continuous, but 600A intermittent (which they define as "25% Maximum On Time, 2 Minutes Max" which is more than the 100 seconds Warn's Albright contactor is rated).

Reality is (as I've said above) if you manage to run your winch at stall for more than a few seconds, the rigging or the user is probably doing something wrong. 600A intermittent is more than enough for Jeep winching loads


Warn also doesn't provide basic info like MBS or WLL on their ROPE! Honestly it ought to be illegal not to provide those on recovery equipment. Luckily every other supplier of synthetic winch rope I've found does provide those...
 

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Is this information correct? Iā€™m having a hard time finding amperage for the 4 aux switches. Is it documented somewhere?

Thanks!
Owners manual - has the color code for each of the four wires. But it's easier than that, two thin wires are 15A, two thicker wires are 40A. It's a really nice feature, just connect your wires and if heading rearward, drop straight down and you can use a tape to make runs through the frame rails (i taped the wires with a rubberized fiber tape like OEMs use to add a sacrificial surface. There is a nice ground lug that can be accessed by lowering the spare tire.
 
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chorky

chorky

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Warn also doesn't provide basic info like MBS or WLL on their ROPE! Honestly it ought to be illegal not to provide those on recovery equipment.
I agree 100% with this - and will not be purchasing items from them again.

Anyway - didn't mean to derail the thread. Hope the OP got the answer he was looking for.
 

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Is anybody using fuses rated at less amperage than the factory for their aux switches?

Switches 1 &2 I believe are 40 amps
Switches 3 & 4 I think are 15 amps

All of my items on these aux switches are less than 10 amps draw. I was considering trying to find a 10a block fuse for switches 1 & 2, and a 5a blade fuse for switches 3 & 4. But I'm not sure if those block fuses for switches 1 and 2 are specific to jeep or if any style from amazon will work.

I just dont have the need for a full 40 amps and would rather reduce the fuse to provide more accurate protection levels.
"I'll take 'Bad Ideas and Vehicle Fires' for $1,000, Alex."
 

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Use the appropriate fuse for the items on the circuit, not what the wire is rated for...up to the max rating.
 

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Sweetums

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Use the appropriate fuse for the items on the circuit, not what the wire is rated for...up to the max rating.
If you use a fuse with the same rating as the wire, the wire becomes the fuse. You always want the fuse to be the first thing to go in the event of a short or other problem.
 
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ShadowsPapa

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Use the appropriate fuse for the items on the circuit, not what the wire is rated for...up to the max rating.
Always fuse for the wire. (I used to hold a maintenance electrician license)
there are exceptions - some heat pumps and minisplit units specify a maximum "fuse size" but as I've learned, you have a breaker in the panel for the wire, then the smaller breaker or fuse for the unit at the disconnect near the unit.

The fuse protects the wire, not the item.

Jeep Gladiator Factory Aux switch fuses - other than factory fuse rating 1707515227052


Jeep Gladiator Factory Aux switch fuses - other than factory fuse rating 1707515392956


Jeep Gladiator Factory Aux switch fuses - other than factory fuse rating 1707515453999


Jeep Gladiator Factory Aux switch fuses - other than factory fuse rating 1707515532471


Automotive fuses are to protect the wiring, not the load.
Sometimes confusion comes from non-automotive applications there devices specify a maximum breaker or fuse size.
But the fuse protects the wire - screw the load.
You have no idea what is being connected to the trailer plug 12v feed - it's fused at 30 - so say you connect something that draws 10 - you are saying you should drop the fuse to a 10 or 15?

Automotive - fuses protect wires, not loads.
That's what we were taught in college, anyway.
 

ShadowsPapa

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This. If you use a fuse with the same rating as the wire, the wire becomes the fuse. You always want the fuse to be the first thing to go in the event of a short or other problem.
Right - protect the wiring/harnesses, screw the load. If you blow a light, you blow a light - fuse for the wire in automotive and wire appropriately for the load - I think it's somewhere around 130% of the expected load.
 

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This. If you use a fuse with the same rating as the wire, the wire becomes the fuse. You always want the fuse to be the first thing to go in the event of a short or other problem.
I think you were reading chorky's post wrong -
He was suggesting using a fuse with a SMALLER rating so it would blow faster.

Some of us connect wiring to our aux switches that is smaller than the aux switch rating.
If that aux switch can handle 40 amps and the aux switch WIRE from the factory can handle more than 40 amps - you are good to go.
So then you do what I've done - run a longer run of wire a size smaller to a load.
You don't want to keep that 40 amp fuse in there, so you drop the fuse down a size.
He's talking reducing the fuse size to match any smaller wiring.
Some of us connect loads smaller than the switch is wired and fused for. Maybe a light kit that comes with wires a size smaller - if you leave that 40 amp fuse in there, you'll blow your new wiring. Forget the lights - go by what the wiring you just installed can handle.
You run wires that can handle 30 amps back to a 20 amp load in the back and connect it to the 40 amp aux switch circuit, you should not leave the 40 amp fuse in there, you should fuse for that wiring that handles 30 amps. Go 25 for example.

Fuse to protect the wire. That's what he's saying.
A lot of us run smaller loads on the 40 amp circuits, and have smaller wiring connected to the aux wiring.
If you match or exceed the factory wire sizes, no reason for a change at all.
If you keep the exact same gauge or one size larger wire gauge run from the aux switch pigtail wire over to the load - no reason to change the fuse.

This is what he said and he's 100% right -

I just dont have the need for a full 40 amps and would rather reduce the fuse to provide more accurate protection levels.
REDUCE fuse size. That means the FUSE blows even faster.
Say the aux switch 40 amp is 14 gauge just for simple numbers.
You connect a smaller wire going to a 20 amp load and the smaller wire can only handle 30 amps - he's saying take out the 40 amp fuse and drop to a 25 amps fuse.
Fuse blows first because the new wire can handle 30 amps, and the factory wire handles 40 amps.
 

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Absolutely - that, and this, from the fuse panel legend under the PDC cover ->

Jeep Gladiator Factory Aux switch fuses - other than factory fuse rating 1707515532471


So anyone connecting lighting and wiring that is a smaller gauge (larger numerically) you can downsize the fuse. Say you connect to the 40 amp switch but your wiring to the lights is only capable of 20 amps - smart to downsize the fuse.
That is until your brother-in-law uses your truck and finds that fuse blown and thinks he's helping by putting one back in rated what the panel says.

That would be my luck.
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