Floor Jack & Jack Stands for full droop

[Bandit’s Lair]

Another vote here for the BadLands off-road jack. It does a great job of getting lifted vehicles off the ground and it has a solid bottom if you need to stack a 2x6 or something under it for even more lift. Very stable even at high lift. Pricey, but peace of mind has been achieved.

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[john67]

I just installed the Metalcloak springs #7609 21 3/4" long -
I bought the Harbor freight spring compressor for $37 - it was very easy to use. I compressed the new springs down to 17" and slid them right in no problem & very quick just seat the springs properly, top & bottom, before raising axel to put weight on the compressed springs - then after confirming springs are in the correct position I slowly took off the compressor.

I got the stock springs out easy about 18" long - by dropping the axel while on jack stands

The new Metalcloak springs #7609 21 3/4" long - would not go in at all without the spring compressor....

 

[Panthers65]

Going to have to get some height for sure. This is with my QuickJack 700's with the truck extensions and the higher pads. Gets it off the ground but not by much.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I just installed the Metalcloak springs #7609 21 3/4" long -
I bought the Harbor freight spring compressor for $37 - it was very easy to use. I compressed the new springs down to 17" and slid them right in no problem & very quick just seat the springs properly, top & bottom, before raising axel to put weight on the compressed springs - then after confirming springs are in the correct position I slowly took off the compressor.

I got the stock springs out easy about 18" long - by dropping the axel while on jack stands

The new Metalcloak springs #7609 21 3/4" long - would not go in at all without the spring compressor....

Spring compressors scare me. First time I used one was on a set of Tein coilovers for a Skyline. I was changing out springs and the very first one slipped. Shot a racing spring into the ceiling of an MCCS auto shop. They were slightly less than impressed.

 

[GuzziMoto]

Well designed spring compressors lock on to the spring. I would be afraid to use one that didn't do that. The amount of energy stored in a compressed suspension spring is serious. It can hurt or kill someone.

 

[EricStanley]

This is one reason why I want to avoid them.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I've probably installed close to 100 springs in Jeeps over the years and never needed a spring compressor. Both the JT and wife's JL run metalcloak 3.5" springs. Unplug the locker and fad wiring harnesses. Remove the bolt that holds the brake line to the lower control arms. With the sway bar end links and shocks disconnected you should be able to droop it enough to slip the springs out/in. Because of the track bar and drag link I've had to push down on the axle on the passengers side while working the spring in but no compressor needed. With the tires removed you don't need the frame much higher than ride height.

 

[john67]

I've probably installed close to 100 springs in Jeeps over the years and never needed a spring compressor. Both the JT and wife's JL run metalcloak 3.5" springs. Unplug the locker and fad wiring harnesses. Remove the bolt that holds the brake line to the lower control arms. With the sway bar end links and shocks disconnected you should be able to droop it enough to slip the springs out/in. Because of the track bar and drag link I've had to push down on the axle on the passengers side while working the spring in but no compressor needed. With the tires removed you don't need the frame much higher than ride height.

There was no way I could get the Metalclocloak spring in ... my stock Gladiator Rubicon springs were about 18 inches, they came out ok, but the Metalcloak were 21 3/4 inches - I had the Gladiator up on cack stands - tire was about 3" off ground when I removed it - then had axel down so brake rotor was about 1" off the ground and had to compress the spring to about 17" so it went in easy. I had.... Unplug the locker and fad wiring harnesses. Remove the bolt that holds the brake line to the lower control arms. Had the sway bar end links and shocks removed ... still no way ...

You were lucky ... I should have taken pictures ....

 

[Zachanadandy]

There was no way I could get the Metalclocloak spring in ... my stock Gladiator Rubicon springs were about 18 inches, they came out ok, but the Metalcloak were 21 3/4 inches - I had the Gladiator up on cack stands - tire was about 3" off ground when I removed it - then had axel down so brake rotor was about 1" off the ground and had to compress the spring to about 17" so it went in easy. I had.... Unplug the locker and fad wiring harnesses. Remove the bolt that holds the brake line to the lower control arms. Had the sway bar end links and shocks removed ... still no way ...

You were lucky ... I should have taken pictures ....

I'd say something else was binding. Going from stock to 3.5" of lift your control arms and track bars need to be loosened as they should be torqued at ride height. If you didn't do that I'd go back and do it now. The OP is going from 4.5" lift springs to longer free length 4.5" springs so likely won't have to do that. If you have aftermarket arms with flex joints that rotate in the bushing then it will droop out with the bolts tight, but bonded bushings like the stock arms won't, which is why they need loosened and retorqued at ride height.

 

[Uparms]

I got some tall stands, medium by some of your standards. I built 2 platforms for use under stands under lifted jeeps. 2 - 2x12s x 14-16 long, lag screwed together with handles. Heavy AF . Built two, one for each side jack stand. Used for lifting 1 TJ and 2 JTs. Also use them when I rotate tires.

I got a nice 3 ton harbor freight jack.

On the most recent lift, my 3rd. I also employed a tractor jack/lift. Use it on one side of the axle cradleing the brake rotor ( soft rubber mounts on the jack. The worked great for getting the other side to drop, while keeping the 3 tone centered on the diff pumpkin to keep it for dropping too far. Worked very well for 2.5 RT AEV springs. Very nice new tool.

 

[GypsyMech]

Harbor freight makes an extended reach floor jack also, that has been my go to so far. One of the previous replies mentioned spring compressors being dangerous, they are, avoid if possible. The 12 ton jack stands work good, make sure all your disconnects are done and it should work.

 

[EricStanley]

As a quick update... I did get the badlands 1.5t off-road jack and their 12t stands. That was enough for full droop... but I still couldn't get enough droop to fully drop the springs without a compressor. Probably could have disconnected the control arms to get more, but was entirely uninterested in doing that. So... spring compressor to the rescue.

 

[rharr]

As a quick update... I did get the badlands 1.5t off-road jack and their 12t stands. That was enough for full droop... but I still couldn't get enough droop to fully drop the springs without a compressor. Probably could have disconnected the control arms to get more, but was entirely uninterested in doing that. So... spring compressor to the rescue.

As others said, the control arm bushing will bind and limit droop. You need to loosen the control arm bolts to let the bushings unbind.

You need to loosen the bushing bolts anyways after you do a spring change cause now you are adding torsional load to a bushing that was clamped down at factory height and is now twisted more. It's a sure way to destroy a bushing quick if you don't reset the bushings at rest height after a taller spring install.

 

[EricStanley]

As others said, the control arm bushing will bind and limit droop. You need to loosen the control arm bolts to let the bushings unbind.

You need to loosen the bushing bolts anyways after you do a spring change cause now you are adding torsional load to a bushing that was clamped down at factory height and is now twisted more. It's a sure way to destroy a bushing quick if you don't reset the bushings at rest height after a taller spring install.

Yeah I had them loose at the time and re-torqued them once it was back on the ground. I just did not want to deal with the alignment mess that comes with completely disconnecting them and having a completely free axle (other than the driveshaft).

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