For those on 35s who have re-geared

[j.o.y.ride]

I remember before 40s became the new 37s and 33s were the standard upgrade that got you through 95% of stuff. Granted, those were much smaller trucks/Jeeps but still, I think most people will be served just fine by 35s and instead should be investing in a lift to help the abysmal breakover and departure. I have yet to hang up a diff but I've definitely high-centered a couple times where droop or articulation would probably have helped.

That's another option is to add one more inch of spring, so long as it doesn't look too goofy with 35s. Won't lift the axles but will lift the rest of it, including the bed which is the problem area.

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[firehog]

I remember before 40s became the new 37s and 33s were the standard upgrade that got you through 95% of stuff. Granted, those were much smaller trucks/Jeeps but still, I think most people will be served just fine by 35s and instead should be investing in a lift to help the abysmal breakover and departure. I have yet to hang up a diff but I've definitely high-centered a couple times where droop or articulation would probably have helped.

Sadly I remember 33’s were “big” and a significant upgrade to our Jeeps. 40’s were around, just not common and were “huge”. Now they are becoming the norm. Lol. I’m sure a good driver can take a stock gladiator anywhere mine will go. But then again, mine will look better stuck! Lol

 

[LostWoods]

Sadly I remember 33’s were “big” and a significant upgrade to our Jeeps. 40’s were around, just not common and were “huge”. Now they are becoming the norm. Lol. I’m sure a good driver can take a stock gladiator anywhere mine will go. But then again, mine will look better stuck! Lol

Yeah even being like 90 minutes from Johnson Valley, we only had a handful of customers who pushed beyond 35s into 37s and the only guys with 40s were dedicated rigs. The concept of putting 40s on a Jeep was unheard of unless you were doing serious cutting and welding. Now people seem to think they can't do moderate trails without them. Where's the fun if you erase the challenge?

 

[brianinca]

I've got plenty of tire experience, thanks. Your advocating for E's is your burden to bear. If you don't think a 37 that's 35% heavier than a 35 doesn't impact handling and performance, again that's your burden to bear. And you can save your questions, I disagree with your assertions as you disagree with mine.

If you are so concerned about ride quality that you think an E load range tire is a burden over a C load of the same tire, then I suggest you question your life choices that brought you to buying a Jeep. The individual tire choice and the equipment on your truck is going to have a significantly larger impact on overall ride quality than the difference between two load ranges on the same tire. You simply cannot compare a C of one tire to an E of another just like how you can't compare the little treadlife/handling/etc. ratings manufacturers specify with their tires.

Neither 35 vs 37 or C vs E is going to make that much a difference in handling. What will is how the truck is set up and what tread pattern you chose. A cheap MT is going to have much worse handling than a good AT and a quality tire is going to have much better ride quality than a cheap tire. If you are seriously focused on ride quality, you need to focus on the tread design more than anything.

 

[LostWoods]

I've got plenty of tire experience, thanks. Your advocating for E's is your burden to bear. If you don't think a 37 that's 35% heavier than a 35 doesn't impact handling and performance, again that's your burden to bear. And you can save your questions, I disagree with your assertions as you disagree with mine.

There is no 37" light truck tire on the planet that is 35% heavier than its 35" counterpart. You can't compare completely different tires and draw anything resembling a valid conclusion. If you're going to compare a 35" C-load AT and 37" E-load MT, the type of tire is going to be 90% of that comparison.

 

[RiverMtnBeach]

There's of course going to be some difference but it's a lot less on a Rubicon than a Max Tow... My truck was noticeably more sluggish off the line but the JTR also didn't feel as peppy when I test drove it. It's very drivable and I had no issues pulling a fully loaded 6x12 Uhaul trailer across country with them.

But I'll be the dissenting opinion on the C vs E... they are stiffer but the truck is plenty heavy enough to make them comfortable around 31psi and I have good wear 10k into them. The benefit of the E here is that the C are the OEM Raptor tire and only a 2-ply sidewall - the E load tires have a 3 ply so they're going to be tougher against rocks. Something to consider if you have to deal with that sort of thing.

The “E” tires were so bad I replaced them with “C” using BFGs satisfaction guarantee. At 28 psi they were OK, but MPG was terrible. I agree they’re not as tough for hardcore off-roading, but they are far more comfortable for the 95% on the highway, plus maybe 2-3 MPG better at 36psi. Handling is also way better on properly inflated tires. Each their own, but for practical daily use the “C” is a better fit.

As for difference from JT/JTR, yeah tell me about it! The 2” Mopar lift was more like 4” rear and 3.5” front for the Maxtow Sport. Planned on 33s but it literally looked like I was on stilts! Really happy with the setup now though.

 

[betsy]

Also, check the gearing chart, because most compare gearing to 1:1 , not overdrive

 

[Darkamek]

I’m on the fence and it seems like 35” with 4.56 is the way to go. I’m putting a 4.5” lift on my Gladiator, are 35” going to be fine or should I be looking at 37” tires? I know it’s a matter of opinion.

Another thing is I will possibly still be towing a small pop up or small camper. Maybe in the 4000lb range for the camper.

My other concern is that I read about people having steering issues with 37” tires, but maybe it’s just the tire.

 

[colindo]

I’m on the fence and it seems like 35” with 4.56 is the way to go. I’m putting a 4.5” lift on my Gladiator, are 35” going to be fine or should I be looking at 37” tires? I know it’s a matter of opinion.

Another thing is I will possibly still be towing a small pop up or small camper. Maybe in the 4000lb range for the camper.

My other concern is that I read about people having steering issues with 37” tires, but maybe it’s just the tire.

It's a matter of personal preference, but I would think you would want 37" with 4.5" of lift. I have 35's on 2.5" lift and most days I think it is just right but some days I think I need to go to 37's.

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