Hootbro
Well-Known Member
Are you factoring in new wheels into the discussion and thought process? The factory 7.5" wide wheels are not going to work with most 37" tire sizes
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I went straight to 35s after driving off the dealer lot and after about a week I was kicking myself for not going 37s. I got a sweet deal on some raptor take offs from my tire guy and found a spare for 100 on offer up.BFG ko2 37s are all over OfferUp and yes they fit under the truck in the spare tire location.Nice looking rig and that tire choice seems to be popular.
Were you able to get the spare in without modifying anything, like the track bar?
I believe I read that people were mounting 37 X12.50R17 BFG ATs to the factory spare. Can anyone confirm that?Are you factoring in new wheels into the discussion and thought process? The factory 7.5" wide wheels are not going to work with most 37" tire sizes
One can buy a 8.5"-9.0" wide steel wheel for like $100 and not worry about being on a non-recommended rim width with the factory steel wheel. That is what I did with my 2020 Gladiator.I believe I read that people were mounting 37 X12.50R17 BFG ATs to the factory spare. Can anyone confirm that?
You can use a 33 as a spare just fine. Just stay out of 4wd and put it passenger front, the front passenger is disconnected in 2wd thanks to the fad so you will just get some abs lights from the wheel speed sensors.
That's not how a fad works. Your passenger front is not connected to your differential if in 2wd as the front is a 2 piece axle shaft that only engages in 4wd. That's literally the whole point of the fad, to disconnect the wheel from the differential so that not even the front drive shaft spins, just the spider gear from the driver front spinning.It may be disconnected at the transfer case, but your axles are still connected to your differential. 12% bigger tires mean your axles are spinning at 12% different speed inside your diff. Over an interstate trek this will most likely overheat your diff.
Putting a different sized spare on a non-driven wheel only works if that wheel is never driven, not just currently disconnected from the transmission. At least if we're talking about long distance here. But OP is asking about interstate limping.
I know it's possible to find a 37 that will go on a 7.5 rim. While that would be less weight, cheaper than buying new rims, and perhaps adequate in snow, my main reason for upgrading is better all around traction, particularly on sand. So I will go with range of 8.5-11" rims (based on 12.5" section width), whatever is recommended for the specific tire, but was hoping to save money if the factory 33 with factory rim would be usable as a spare if left intact.Are you factoring in new wheels into the discussion and thought process? The factory 7.5" wide wheels are not going to work with most 37" tire sizes
You can, the 33 works fine just make sure it's front passenger and 2wd only. You could drive from Alaska to Argentina on it and not damage anything as long as it's front passenger and 2wd.I know it's possible to find a 37 that will go on a 7.5 rim. While that would be less weight, cheaper than buying new rims, and perhaps adequate in snow, my main reason for upgrading is better all around traction, particularly on sand. So I will go with 12.5 rims, but was hoping to save money if the factory 33 with factory rim would be usable as a spare if left intact.
completely forgot about the FAD, you're right.That's not how a fad works.
So if the flat occurs offroad, in a spot where 4wd is necessary, using 4wd may cause damage even if terrain is soft?You can, the 33 works fine just make sure it's front passenger and 2wd only. You could drive from Alaska to Argentina on it and not damage anything as long as it's front passenger and 2wd.
Slow speed unlocked for short distances you would be fine as well since the spider gears will take care of it.So if the flat occurs offroad, in a spot where 4wd is necessary, using 4wd may cause damage even if terrain is soft?
Necessary to go in 2wd and be pulled out with straps?
Sounds like going with five 37's (and whatever mods may be required) might be better, despite the cost/weight savings of using factory 33 as spare.
Yes, thanks i noticed the mistake and edited that post.12.5” rims? Sorry if I’m ignorant but wouldn’t a 9-10” be plenty. I do tend to agree get a similar same size or exact same tire on a steel cheap rim if not doing the five tire rotation….Jack