Gladiators in STL?

[Canuck33]

It all depends...they get various incentives, givebacks, discounts, etc. It's all about what you negotiate, how you are paying, etc. No one should ever pay over invoice... You have to do your research, have a bottom line number, and hold your ground. I negotiated with four different dealerships (walked out of two very politely...3rd was online).

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[Canuck33]

Use this link....https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/2021-gladiator-pricing-worksheet-google-sheets.17566/page-5

 

[b-roc]

Also, if you can wait to buy for 30 days look into the fca discount that comes with a tread lightly membership... automatically gets you affiliate pricing which is 1% below invoice ... then negotiate from there ... membership is $100

 

[scourge]

I'm going to try using that pricing sheet.

I appreciate all the help guys. A Gladiator will only be in reach for me if I can get an amazing deal. If I go on truecar and get a price, is there still wiggle room beyond that?

 

[Canuck33]

There is always room. Just go in with your best number and if you can't get there, don't buy.

 

[darkhorse13]

I'm from STL but live in Denver. We often drive the JTR back to visit family and friends. Next time I'm in this summer I hopefully love to meet up with people... whatever that may look like while we continue to navigate current situations.

Also, my wife and I bought our first new vehicle, FJ Cruiser, from Lou Fusz off Manchester/Lindbergh in 2010 and I swore I'd never buy anything from them again! Hated the service dept and my sales person was nothing to write home about. Funny to hear in the first couple posts here that Lou Fusz still seems to be a pain point.

John

 

[Yallaen]

Guys, I'm 54 y.o. I've been buying cars for years. Invoice...Dealer pricing....MSRP....it's all a shell game.
I knew a salesguy with a large pontiac dealer elsewhere. He said that markup is 20% over THEIR cost. And those "invoice" numbers are just that..numbers.

Here is a guesstimate, and it has always worked for me. Look at the sticker or MSRP. Subtract 20%. You'll be in the ball park of what the dealer paid, give or take. Probably a tad more. You got to give them something, right? They make more $$ on service and parts than the actual car sales.

So, if a ride is listed at 40k....subtract 20% plus/minus. In other words, 8k, or 32k. Hit them with that.
Also, always NEGOTIATE the price FIRST, BEFORE YOU TALK TRADE-IN. I didn't do it last time, I went in, knew what I wanted, I hit them with number and trade-in amount. Bam, done. But in the past, I went in without my ride. I found my car...negotiated price...then said "I have a trade-in I want considered".

In this example, it was a 2005 Trailblazer in very good condition, but with 298k miles. It had been paid off. They were going to give me $500. I said no...explained my reasoning, and came back at 2k. They said no, it would probably just go to auction. They came back with 1k, and I said done.

 

[Midnight Rider]

Wright City here, about 50 miles west.

 

[Caspien]

Just saw this.. STL Area, here. On the IL side.

 

[Midnight Rider]

Just saw this.. STL Area, here. On the IL side.

Welcome!

 

[Litfuse]

I just ordered a 2021 Mojave yesterday. Live on the Illinois side just across from South County.

 

[Midnight Rider]

Welcome!

 

[Staphylococcus0]

Down in South County here.

I'll probably weekend warrior Mark Twain National Forest.

 

[Midnight Rider]

Welcome!

 

[kstine98]

Okawville, IL - 40 miles east

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