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Going 40s... New concerns...

Hootbro

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rharr

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ATL_Rubi

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heftysmurf

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Slightly different setup -- apples and oranges, but a fellow Floridian who did our only decent park (Hard Rock) on my old JKU. The clear difference was I was on a D30 BUT I had it trussed and gussetted, stock axle shafts, ARB locker up front, 37's. I blew up the axle shaft playing up there and definitely not sending it because I had a 4 hours drive home. Also thrashed the front Rzeppa joint on a 3.5" lift. PLUS I was with some folks and we were collectively able to hobble to O'Reilly and pull the bits broken out of the diff and disco the driveshaft for the drive home. Once hope, replaced with a Tera44.

So, certainly different. My take is: something will break and if I were in your shoes, I'd truss and upgrade shafts at the very least I'd upgrade to tons just from a holistic approach of driving with 40's.
 

Hootbro

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The amount of deleted posts there by homie is astronomical.
Yeah, I caught the thread in real time last week and it was fun to watch. :)
 

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SSinGA

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I've been roving around on 40's for a bit over a year now. IMO...the weak link is the FAD on the front axle. A front axle gusset would probably be a good idea (yes, I need one too!). Ball joints will wear out, replace when they do. Just keep in mind that every beefed-up part transfers the weak point down the line.

.
 
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Pescatoral Pursuit

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Just keep in mind that every beefed-up part transfers the weak point down the line.
Something I read on the wrangler forum which stuck with me is that breakage on the trail is not a matter of if, but when. The consensus on that thread was to choose your weak point and be prepared. I think the driveline weak link of choice with those guys was U-joints and second was axles.
 

mep4wd

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I've traded my fear of getting stuck on the trail, to breaking down on the trail, lol.

Went from 37 KO2s and a 3.5 lift, to 40" Patagonia M/Ts and 5.5 lift. Factory gears, axles.

I feel better about not getting rutted out (been stuck twice; winched myself out both times) but now I'm concerned something might break.

JTRD and I'm not a "send it" guy: always carefully wade in trusting lockers and a good winch point ahead.
Not a rock crawler in Central Florida but sand, clay and mud trails with holes ruts divets here and there.

All of my wheeling is solo vehicle and usually no passengers.

Is Mr calculatedly careful justified in his concerns or overly paranoid?
Congrats. Bet that Jeep looks very cool. IMHO you are totally justified in your concerns. The stock tires mated to that gear ratio are 33's. Yes the net difference in radius (lift) is only 2 inches, however the weight difference alone between a 33 and a 40 is just huge. The additional tension this puts on the whole drive train is significant. Not sure exactly what to gear down to. There will be 1000 opinions on that subject. (I'm thinking 5.33) In addition, I suggest that when you re-gear that you add chrome molly axles to your shopping list. It won't add much, if anything to the labor cost. Remember that during trail use tires will spin and grab, spin and then grab. All it takes is for the spin on a rock during a steep climb, get too fast and then suddenly regain traction grabbing hard...then SNAP. What if you're out there alone? Even if you aren't it might take a rescue vehicle to get you back to civilization. That'll be pricey and then consider the cost if you are in an area far away from home. No one ever said this was an inexpensive past time. Best of luck.
 

Chief_jeep

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@Pescatoral Pursuit i went to the Mickey Thompson Baja boss. I live in Utah and avoid mud and clay so I can't weight in on that. If you are driving in the mud a lot an MT tire will clear much better.

If you plan on regearing 4.88 are great with the Ecodiesel and 40s.
 

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Orange01z28

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I've traded my fear of getting stuck on the trail, to breaking down on the trail, lol.

Went from 37 KO2s and a 3.5 lift, to 40" Patagonia M/Ts and 5.5 lift. Factory gears, axles.

I feel better about not getting rutted out (been stuck twice; winched myself out both times) but now I'm concerned something might break.

JTRD and I'm not a "send it" guy: always carefully wade in trusting lockers and a good winch point ahead.
Not a rock crawler in Central Florida but sand, clay and mud trails with holes ruts divets here and there.

All of my wheeling is solo vehicle and usually no passengers.

Is Mr calculatedly careful justified in his concerns or overly paranoid?
If you're careful you can wheel 40s on stock axles

However, I would upgrade the gears, then you'll get more torque to the ground with less throttle input. More throttle = more breakage
 
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If you're careful you can wheel 40s on stock axles

However, I would upgrade the gears, then you'll get more torque to the ground with less throttle input. More throttle = more breakage
4L
 

rharr

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4L is a dumb answer, You are not driving around on surface streets in 4L or on the highway in 4L, aka the 98% of the driving you will be doing. In those use cases when you are in 2H rolling on 40's on stock 3.73 gears it will suck. You will have very slow acceleration, the trans will be working hard aka more slipping of clutches) to get that thing to roll from a dead stop and will likely rarely even use the last two trans gears at high way speed.

You are increasing forces by 21% from OEM (33" to 40"). 21% is a big number in auto world.

It's your rig you can start somewhere and see what people are talking about for your self.
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