GOING TO 37S WHAT SHOULD I BEEF UP

[Escape.idiocracy]

Looking at STEER SMARTS - front and rear track bar
yeti xd tie rod assembly
yeti xd drag link with xd atcuater
REGEAR -down the road

re-gear and Hydro assist…. Hydro assist is going to pull the stress off the steering box and the frame…. If your on 37+ tires long enough it’s the inevitable- unless your going 37’s for added speed bump clearance at the grocery store.

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[Mbryson]

regear for sure, then the other stuff

 

[bleda2002]

Regear, trackbar reinforcement, and truss/gusset front axle and rear(or rock crawler 4 link). Everything else as it wears you can take care of them. These axles are plenty strong for 37s other than maybe the aluminum knuckles depending on how you abuse them.

 

[Jteakus]

I would look at steering upgrades as far as the Apex system it handles my 37's well.

 

[Renegade]

I wheeled mine hard on 37s and 4.10 gears for 3 years without upgrading a single steering component. The JT/JL tie rod and drag link are quite a bit stronger than prior generations. The only things I broke in the front repeatedly were axle u-joints. Those led to broken or bent axle shafts, and one experience of ball joints popping out of the knuckle. So, if it was me, I would upgrade the front axle shafts before doing any of that other stuff. When you lose a shaft in the front axle, the Jeep senses speed variances it doesn’t compute, and shuts off the 4WD module. This leaves you in 2WD. RCVs or alternative chromoly shafts with larger joints would be my recommendation. That said, ball joints with circle clips that hold them in would also be a solid investment if you’re doing hard core stuff. Otherwise, just enjoy your Jeep.

 

[Mbryson]

I wheeled mine hard on 37s and 4.10 gears for 3 years without upgrading a single steering component. The JT/JL tie rod and drag link are quite a bit stronger than prior generations. The only things I broke in the front repeatedly were axle u-joints. Those led to broken or bent axle shafts, and one experience of ball joints popping out of the knuckle. So, if it was me, I would upgrade the front axle shafts before doing any of that other stuff. When you lose a shaft in the front axle, the Jeep senses speed variances it doesn’t compute, and shuts off the 4WD module. This leaves you in 2WD. RCVs or alternative chromoly shafts with larger joints would be my recommendation. That said, ball joints with circle clips that hold them in would also be a solid investment if you’re doing hard core stuff. Otherwise, just enjoy your Jeep.

I would argue that a change in axle gearing MAY save axle shaft/u-joint destruction to a point. Seems counterintuitive as you are now placing more torque to the joint.

If one has stock gearing and 4-5 tire sizes bigger tires than stock, the driver can only compensate with additional throttle and thereby less control in a given crawling situation. (I'm not talking a mud or snow type situation). With lower axle gears, that gives you back control and lower RPM for a given crawling situation. (This will only go so far until you reach the point where the axle joint is just not going to handle what you're throwing at it. )

For my dollar, I'd do gears first and see what broke. The JT axles are not to bad (other than I'm not a fan of the front axle disconnect gizmo. It's just another place things can break or malfunction)

I drive mostly in rocks. Sandstone in around Southern Utah and/or granite/shake in Northern Utah or Southern Idaho. Your experience may vary from mine?

 

[Yman70]

Artec front axle truss.

 

[Bpine]

I just moved from 35's to 37 Patagonia's, for safety I did Ried Knuckles, Ball Joint Deletes, RCV's in front Chromoly axles in rear. I had regeared already for 35's to 4:56 which was perfect and still seems really good but If staying with the V6 I would do 4:88. I plan to go 392 in another week so the 4:56 will work. I am also doing psc steering in the rocks the stock steering isn't enough imo.
I have a Clayton 3.5 lift with 4.5 Backspace wheels with no rubbing. Mine is a Sport Fredom edition. I wanted 38's but want to keep the spare in the stock location and the 37 barley fits, I think a 38 is a no go. I decided not to truss for now if the axle breaks I will upgrade to 60's. I also have Rockslide engineering steps wich is a must for the wife ok and me too.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Deltoids, biceps, brachioradialis and traps for when you go to rotate or change those beasts.

 

[BUZZHEAD]

Well, I'll give you a different perspective here: do nothing but drive it.

Make yourself a little "upgrade fund" for when it is time to replace a failed ball joint or whatever, but don't waste the time and effort on it yet.

I've had jeeps for 40 years. I currently have 3:

The 2020 JTR is on 37's and a 2.5" Icon Stage 6 lift which means Icon replaced trackbars/swaybars, etc.

She's rigged out for overlanding:

Which means she's a big ol' phat pig:

And believe me, she gets wheeled (just the BOH trails we've done):

With the exception of the Stage 6 lift components, wheels & tires, everything below the bed/tub is stock and has been since June 2020 when we bought her. For sure I will replace parts as they wear/break with upgraded parts; but I plan to get all of the life out of the stock drive train parts such as ball joints, universals, yokes, C's, axles, drive shafts, etc. as I can.

I don't make this post to sound sanctimonious, I'm only trying to provide some testimony that the stock parts on this Gladiator have been pretty durable (in fact more durable than the two Wranglers in the first pic that have had ball joints, trackbars, tie rods, draglinks, etc. replaced because of death wobble).

Personally, I think you will be fine for quite a while on 37's.

EDIT: one thing to bear in mind with the regear: if you like to play in the rocks, regearing means putting in a ring gear and pinion that can't handle as much load because they are smaller than your 4.10's. I find my 4.10's livable for the trade off in differential relaibility....

Real world answers was what I was looking for .
thank you

 

[BUZZHEAD]

Steps for the wife?

WIFE got rid of her 30 years ago

 

[BUZZHEAD]

Folks I appreciate all the feed back.
I dont always do hard core wheelin but when I do I dont want to brake down.
THANK YOU

 

[guarnibl]

I’ve done most of the trails in Moab (excluding Pritchett — did that in the 392) in my gladiator for three years in a row now, a few in CO, as well as lots of local Phoenix ones. Never reinforced anything and ran 37’s since mile #9 and 40’s in Moab every time. Have around 30,000 now. Probably 4000 miles off road.

I’m running the apex steering boost kit which did make a difference and wasn’t too costly. Also — I have the ecodiesel which puts out a lot more torque (and stress), but didn’t need to regear because of that (3.73).

These axles are pretty stout from factory. I’ve also been running 40’s on my 392 with no changes though I think that’s probably playing a bit more with fire. But for 37’s there’s no way I’d bother reinforcing anything unless you’ve got a heavy foot.

Depending on tire weight — if AT’s and stock wheels I’d probably wait and see if it needed a regear otherwise I’d go with 4.88’s for a lot of highway driving.

Otherwise if you’re set on reinforcing things when regearing — what others have mentioned here are all good go to’s. I still wouldn’t run hydro assist though. I’d spend that money on the steering boost kit, better recovery gear, onboard air, etc.

 

[Dougstdig]

Looking at STEER SMARTS - front and rear track bar
yeti xd tie rod assembly
yeti xd drag link with xd atcuater
REGEAR -down the road

Use the Clayton rear track bar. It provides more clearance and allows for no contact with the spare of a 37” tire.

 

[BUZZHEAD]

Use the Clayton rear track bar. It provides more clearance and allows for no contact with the spare of a 37” tire.

spare is mounted in the bed

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