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Gross gear oil @ 8k miles

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rharr

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Reusable gasket, but you don't need to pop it to drain and refill, one of the few good things with the axle.

They could be crap axles cause no one is flushing these after the first 1k of ownership letting all the junk kicked up on fresh gears chew up bearings everything else. It really should be part of a dealer service program.
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Thanks for the post. I’m going to change mine out this week.
 

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Reusable gasket, but you don't need to pop it to drain and refill, one of the few good things with the axle.

They could be crap axles cause no one is flushing these after the first 1k of ownership letting all the junk kicked up on fresh gears chew up bearings everything else. It really should be part of a dealer service program.
Thanks. Reason I ask is because on the first fluid change I ALWAYS pull the cover. You can't get the magnet clean any other way. And the first one or two fluid changes is where the magnet will get covered in metallic sludge the worst.

I personally only use the drain plug for emergency changes that need to be done quick, i.e. had to do a really deep water crossing during a flood or something like that. Otherwise, it makes sense to always pull the cover since it's only done rarely and pulling the cover allows inspection of gears and cleaning of the magnet.
 
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rharr

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The magnet is on the plug, FYI a half inch neodymium disk magnet fits into the cup of the fill plug, add some jbweld and now you have a second magnet to pick up more crap.
 

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One of the most common arguments against a proper break in is that it's not for the engine so much as the differentials as if that somehow makes it not a good idea. This is why. I do my break in engine oil changes at ~1K, and do the rest with the first regular oil change at 5K. I change my oil "on the 5s" (when the odometer ends in multiples of 5k; 5, 10, 15, 20, etc.) to keep it simple and conservative.
 

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I change my oil "on the 5s" (when the odometer ends in multiples of 5k; 5, 10, 15, 20, etc.) to keep it simple and conservative.
Great idea! I like that! I used to go every 3k, but seems like the oils last longer now. What does the Jeep manual call for? I just ordered my Mojave and haven't read the manual yet.
 

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Read the first post
Just fyi and for others who may want to know the capacity. You had it listed as 1.5l which is around 51 ounces, I changed mine just now and it took about 63 ounces, so quite a bit more.
fluid was dark brown but not terrible and just a little fuzz on the magnet, I have 21k miles.
 

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What
Just fyi and for others who may want to know the capacity. You had it listed as 1.5l which is around 51 ounces, I changed mine just now and it took about 63 ounces, so quite a bit more.
fluid was dark brown but not terrible and just a little fuzz on the magnet, I have 21k miles.
That's good to hear. What axles do you have? (Lockers?)
 
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rharr

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Just fyi and for others who may want to know the capacity. You had it listed as 1.5l which is around 51 ounces, I changed mine just now and it took about 63 ounces, so quite a bit more.
fluid was dark brown but not terrible and just a little fuzz on the magnet, I have 21k miles.
So basically 2 qts per axle with some left will cover you.
 
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Reusable gasket, but you don't need to pop it to drain and refill, one of the few good things with the axle.

They could be crap axles cause no one is flushing these after the first 1k of ownership letting all the junk kicked up on fresh gears chew up bearings everything else. It really should be part of a dealer service program.
I never change fluid without popping the cover. The crud settles in lower spots in the housing. That's also where you find any issues - any REAL issues. Why leave the worst of the crud in there?
You can also do a visual inspection with the cover off.
I've also had bad luck with "RTV" on differential covers........... for me it's almost always a new gasket. Cheap insurance compared to fixing a later leak.
 
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rharr

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I never change fluid without popping the cover. The crud settles in lower spots in the housing. That's also where you find any issues - any REAL issues. Why leave the worst of the crud in there?
You can also do a visual inspection with the cover off.
I've also had bad luck with "RTV" on differential covers........... for me it's almost always a new gasket. Cheap insurance compared to fixing a later leak.
Have you pull the cover yet? the drain is pretty low on the rear, yes there may be some remaining smoo in the bottom, but if you are planning to re-inspect and drain/flush it out again in another 3k (like me), just a flush in the first 3k without a cover pop isn't the worst thing in the world. I will pull the cover then after I have a few more miles to make sure things are settled.

The point of this thread is not to tell people how they should handle their diff but to merely point out the fact the factory gear oil gets nasty in not many miles and they should deal with it and keep an eye on it.

FYI the front diff, the drain plug is directly on the bottom of the housing, making a cover pop for a flush even less critical. Hell, mopar thinks everything will be fine not touching a damn thing for something like 75k...... so to nit pick about cover pops is a little petty.

These new axles don't use RTV, so there is no point in discussing RTV. Your choice, buy a new rubber gasket or reuse the old one, as simple as that. The rubber gasket is rather stout in my opinion and I have no concerns about reusing it in my jeep, the diff cover is also pretty thick, not like those cheap chrome covers, so leaks due to deformation should be limited. Again each is own.....
 

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rharr

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I'm seeing a trend... The nasty oil seems to be axles with lockers.
quite possibility which would be odd, since for instance, on mine i have barely used the locker, like 5 minutes. When not engaged, it should function just like a open diff. Only time and continued inspection will tell.....
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