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Hard time finding my favorite oil

seven30

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I have a couple data points that would counter this statement. I have seen this on multiple machines. Mine had 26K. I have switched to a mix of 5W-20 and 5w-30

0225221735.jpg
26k??? That is scary! Was viscosity failure the official Jeep diagnosis?
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DAVECS1

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I have mods and shops here are backed up for months. I rore into myself after logging data and a second bad oil analysis.
 

DAVECS1

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Gonna be a bit, I am out and about for work. Cool side note my rental is a sahara with the turbo 4. It moves pretty decent!
 

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Dougstdig

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A couple months ago I couldnt find oil filters for my Honda (checked 5 walmarts and a few auto part shops). Now I cant fine any Mobile 1 0w20 Extended Performance. Actually I cant find ANY Mobile 1 0w20 5qt at Walmarts aside from a random jug of Advanced Fuel Economy. Some auto parts chain stores had it but at $40 whereas Walmart is usually $25. Amazon doesnt have it either.

I managed to get the Extended Performance High Mileage, but my JT is only at 46k miles not the 75k the oil is intended for. I do have a jug of Valvoline Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic from before Stellantis said Mobile 1 was fine to use. Which of the 2 should I use ?

Also curious if you guys have been seeing less availability of oil in your areas
Make sure it’s in writing. I’m just guessing you’re referring to oil for a 3.6. I lucked out finding oil and found 3 non Mopar filters. I’ve since picked up 3 more jugs. The 2 Mopar filters I ordered are still on back order 2 months later. Fuel filter??? A unicorn.

Jeep Gladiator Hard time finding my favorite oil 0A1B8459-0BBB-427E-99C3-5FCBC359EBD5


Jeep Gladiator Hard time finding my favorite oil 3D09B9D7-BA49-422F-A649-25226508BDAC
 

ShadowsPapa

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There can be hot spots in an engine, but yeah, that kind of temp would be trouble. Pennzoil's lower flash point is still adequate and well above what the oil should see in a healthy engine.

The reason I look for a high flash point is in case I lose coolant or get into a situation where the temp spikes in the hopes to limit damage. I like knowing the capacity is there in the unlikely event it is needed.
Such as the bottom side of a piston head, or the temperature created by the sheer forces on oil - isolated spots of extreme temperatures. Your 'in the pan' temperature may not be high but the oil out there working in the engine can be many times higher. In fact, it's not unlikely to see spots of oil exceeding their breakdown temperature. It's not just contamination that necessitates oil changes, it's the fact that at a given time, a portion of that oil is meeting or exceeding what it can handle.
 
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seven30

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Such as the bottom side of a piston head, or the temperature created by the sheer forces on oil - isolated spots of extreme temperatures. Your in the pan temperature may not be high but the oil out there working in the engine can be many times higher. In fact, it's not unlikely to see spots of oil exceeding their breakdown temperature. It's not just contamination that necessitates oil changes, it's the fact that at a given time, a portion of that oil is meeting or exceeding what it can handle.
The 540rat.blog guy does elevated temperature tests on some of the oils.
Surprising how some that are very good at room temps loose significant film strength at elevated temps while others are barely affected. Some are just poor all the way around.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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The 540rat.blog guy does elevated temperature tests on some of the oils.
Surprising how some that are very good at room temps loose significant film strength at elevated temps while others are barely affected. Some are just poor all the way around.
Yeah, some hold up well, others not so much. The old thing about synthetic always, all of them, being better at that compared to conventional oils is also blown out of the water. Yes, the better synthetics do better than the best conventional oils but some synthetics actually do worse than the better conventional oils. There's no hard/fast rule.

I have always used a highly rated (pressure tests, etc.) oil in my flat tappet cam engines and have never lost a cam, not so much as a single lifter or lobe. I've run Comp xtreme cams for years and have never used additives (it's generally not a good idea to put in additives anyway - oil companies explain it and rat does as well, only a handful of oils do better with additives, and not all additives do well when added later)
I've never added zddp, or anything else. I have comp cams in two of my current cars (sold my other car with a comp xtreme cam)

Dave is right in that these are very much like a flat tappet cam engines. I hate it when people are arguing about oil and then say "modern engines are all roller tappet and don't need the better oils" BS.
Really? I guess they've only had a handful of engines open if they believe that. This is as close to a flat tappet engine setup as you can get - but these are worse.
Why? Because with the old design, the lifters rotated............ these get hammered over and over on the exact same areas in the same pattern. With the lifter rotating there's at least some "roller" action in a sense.
 

seven30

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Yeah, some hold up well, others not so much. The old thing about synthetic always, all of them, being better at that compared to conventional oils is also blown out of the water. Yes, the better synthetics do better than the best conventional oils but some synthetics actually do worse than the better conventional oils. There's no hard/fast rule.

I have always used a highly rated (pressure tests, etc.) oil in my flat tappet cam engines and have never lost a cam, not so much as a single lifter or lobe. I've run Comp xtreme cams for years and have never used additives (it's generally not a good idea to put in additives anyway - oil companies explain it and rat does as well, only a handful of oils do better with additives, and not all additives do well when added later)
I've never added zddp, or anything else. I have comp cams in two of my current cars (sold my other car with a comp xtreme cam)

Dave is right in that these are very much like a flat tappet cam engines. I hate it when people are arguing about oil and then say "modern engines are all roller tappet and don't need the better oils" BS.
Really? I guess they've only had a handful of engines open if they believe that. This is as close to a flat tappet engine setup as you can get - but these are worse.
Why? Because with the old design, the lifters rotated............ these get hammered over and over on the exact same areas in the same pattern. With the lifter rotating there's at least some "roller" action in a sense.
Our other jeep is the 5.7L Hemi. Guess what just happened to it.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Like to hear about engine mods if care to share.
his is not naturally aspirated and it's his own custom tune, among other things......
 
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PyrPatriot

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Yeah, some hold up well, others not so much. The old thing about synthetic always, all of them, being better at that compared to conventional oils is also blown out of the water. Yes, the better synthetics do better than the best conventional oils but some synthetics actually do worse than the better conventional oils. There's no hard/fast rule.

I have always used a highly rated (pressure tests, etc.) oil in my flat tappet cam engines and have never lost a cam, not so much as a single lifter or lobe. I've run Comp xtreme cams for years and have never used additives (it's generally not a good idea to put in additives anyway - oil companies explain it and rat does as well, only a handful of oils do better with additives, and not all additives do well when added later)
I've never added zddp, or anything else. I have comp cams in two of my current cars (sold my other car with a comp xtreme cam)

Dave is right in that these are very much like a flat tappet cam engines. I hate it when people are arguing about oil and then say "modern engines are all roller tappet and don't need the better oils" BS.
Really? I guess they've only had a handful of engines open if they believe that. This is as close to a flat tappet engine setup as you can get - but these are worse.
Why? Because with the old design, the lifters rotated............ these get hammered over and over on the exact same areas in the same pattern. With the lifter rotating there's at least some "roller" action in a sense.
This and the info/discussion related to the worn engine pics above are worthy of their own discussion. Wonder how much it would cost my dealership to open things up and let me take pics
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