Oil Change time rapidly approaching. What to do?

[Mike5]

On the glady, every 50-70k per the ZF manual and driving conditions present

You just drain the transmission or drain and flush?

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[PuddleJumper]

You just drain the transmission or drain and flush?

Drain and fill cus I don’t have a flush machine

 

[Stan H]

Drain and fill cus I don’t have a flush machine

A full flush on an older transmission can be dangerous . A drain filter and fill is best bet on anything with mileage

 

[PuddleJumper]

Yeah I’ve heard the horror stories. I figure with regular drain and fill interval you’ll never really need a actual flush

 

[Sw00per]

For those interested check this guy out if you want to geek out on oil. He has lots of videos here is a recent one.

Motor Oil Geek

 

[Mike5]

For those interested check this guy out if you want to geek out on oil. He has lots of videos here is a recent one.

Motor Oil Geek

What’s his bottom line, Amsoil?

 

[TheRealStreetcommander]

What’s his bottom line, Amsoil?

Bottom line: There's still no consensus and he makes his money by not bucking the manufacturer's status quo, and saves his money (avoids litigation)by not recommending against the manufacturer's status quo. [end of his summary position]

And, even with great add-packs, the thicker oil always provides better wear protection, except that thinner oils tend to wear the rings less --but only initially, and then the thicker oils are better for terminal wear. So, while many engines can last a long long time under ideal design conditions using thin 8/12/20 weight oils, they don't provide much cushion and fall apart severely the first time they are challenged outside of the ideal design conditions of the engine.

Thicker oil does not by itself impart much advantage. It's the fact that most thicker modern oils and most diesel-specific oils have significantly better additives. This is the result of intellectually bankrupt government regulation limiting additive levels in oils intended for passenger car road use, not a vast XXXX-wing conspiracy. And because the add-pack ingredients CAN (but don't often) bind-to or poison the platinum-group metals in the catalytic converters, manufacturers hop on board because they don't want expensive warranty claims. Long term durability is not needed or desired when designing vehicles to maximize shareholder profits.

Thinner oils are intended to decrease pumping and drag losses and increase MPG.

I think this is a reasonably fair summary. There are some items people will challenge on the periphery, but this should convey the reality of modern oils and manufacturers recommendations.

Use the oil you are comfortable with.

 

[Mike5]

Bottom line: There's still no consensus and he makes his money by not bucking the manufacturer's status quo, and saves his money (avoids litigation)by not recommending against the manufacturer's status quo. [end of his summary position]

And, even with great add-packs, the thicker oil always provides better wear protection, except that thinner oils tend to wear the rings less --but only initially, and then the thicker oils are better for terminal wear. So, while many engines can last a long long time under ideal design conditions using thin 8/12/20 weight oils, they don't provide much cushion and fall apart severely the first time they are challenged outside of the ideal design conditions of the engine.

Thicker oil does not by itself impart much advantage. It's the fact that most thicker modern oils and most diesel-specific oils have significantly better additives. This is the result of intellectually bankrupt government regulation limiting additive levels in oils intended for passenger car road use, not a vast XXXX-wing conspiracy. And because the add-pack ingredients CAN (but don't often) bind-to or poison the platinum-group metals in the catalytic converters, manufacturers hop on board because they don't want expensive warranty claims. Long term durability is not needed or desired when designing vehicles to maximize shareholder profits.

Thinner oils are intended to decrease pumping and drag losses and increase MPG.

I think this is a reasonably fair summary. There are some items people will challenge on the periphery, but this should convey the reality of modern oils and manufacturers recommendations.

Use the oil you are comfortable with.

Thank you! I will use the 0w-20 until the warranty is out and then make a decision. What are you using in yours?

 

[TheRealStreetcommander]

What are you using in yours?

Rotella Diesel, T6 5w40. I've been M1 0w40 or T6 5w40 since 500 miles.

 

[Sw00per]

What’s his bottom line, Amsoil?

This guy mentioned a follow-on test which he has not posted. Not sure how many folks send use oil out to test to determine wear but the geek in me is considering it.

 

[DiehardTory]

Hey Mr. Motor Oil Geek,, What is your engineering degree? What team of mechanical engineers do you work on? BTW do you have access to a full engine dyno and the resources to tear down and examine after a 100,000 mile operational test?
Sorry, until you do all these I have issues accepting your test results..
Simply stated, Go with the OEM recommendations and specifications.

 

[ScottBeach]

Oil every 5k after first drain at 1500 miles. Coolant every 3 years. About 36-40k miles. Front/rear diff every 20k or if I have been extra hard 15k

Trans I do every 60k miles. Drain and fill -never flush.
This is my 4th zf based trans never an issue.

All drain if I sink the truck. Which happened in the last JT... I don't trust water penetranting seals. So drain if looks good fresh fluid if not seals and fluids

 

[Dakotaz]

Interesting........why does the Euro builds get that over the 0w20. I would love to hear that answer

My guess is to meet the EPA requirements for MPG in the US.

 

[Minty JL]

My guess is to meet the EPA requirements for MPG in the US.

IF memory serves me right, they have even stricter standards over there.

 

[Gizmo]

In my MOPARs I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and in the JT 0w-20 and a Fram Synthetic filter once a year which is about 3500 miles

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