Has anyone gone from Synergy steering sector shaft brace to the Metalcloak version?

[FR33DOM]

I've had my Synergy for quite some time now and while I've been generally been happy with it, I have not been able to keep it stable. I it needs to be retorqued (the 3/8? bolt that holds the shaft bearing housing) every 1500-2000 miles. Steering gets noticeably loose and then I have to go down there and retorque it. I've tried blue locktite. I suppose I could try RED, but at the same time I'm not sure it is the superior solution anymore.

I saw MetalCloak has a more elegant looking solution but curious if anyone has made the switch or if they are happy with it.

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[SuperUltraMan]

I’m about to install the Synergy but gave some consideration to going with Metalcloak.
Ultimately, I decided against the MC because it requires drilling 2 holes into the frame crossmember and that would introduce the possibility to weaken that crossmember.
There’s a lot of users of the Synergy brace without incidents reported.
Maybe something is a little off with yours and can be remedied.
Have you contacted Synergy?

 

[Minty JL]

Thank you for pointing out the MetalCloak version; it will be a simple bolt on for the Mojave.

The other braces/supports do not work on the Mojave because of the reinforced frame.

Edit: I just ordered the MetalCloak.

Thanks guys, I had gone 2 weeks w/o buying any Jeep parts LOL

 

[Darkspeed]

Looking at the available options, the one im going with is the Steer Smarts YETI XD.

also fits Mojave

 

[Lunentucker]

Looking at the available options, the one im going with is the Steer Smarts YETI XD.

also fits Mojave

Kinda....

 

[Darkspeed]

I think on the Diesel and Mojave you have to trim a tab and move a wire clip. my Engineer brain liked that one the best.

 

[Lunentucker]

I think on the Diesel and Mojave you have to trim a tab and move a wire clip. my Engineer brain liked that one the best.

You do.
I tried one back when I believed that it would fix my steering issues. Fought it for the better part of a day and could not get it to line up.
It's at the bottom of my pond now and my steering issues have been corrected through other means.

If the Metalcloak was out back then I probably would've installed that one.

 

[Minty JL]

Yeah I wanted something that I can take out of the box and install as designed.

I have no problem fabricating and modifying stuff, but if I'm buying something for a specific application......I just want to install it move on to the next mod.

 

[XraytecH]

The MetalCloak offering was intriguing until I read the part where I'd have to drill two large holes into a crossmember. Went with SteerSmarts instead.

 

[Rusty PW]

I think on the Diesel and Mojave you have to trim a tab and move a wire clip. my Engineer brain liked that one the best.

You do have to trim a little. It's not hard to do. I have a SteerSmart installed on my JTRD.

 

[Darkspeed]

When you analyze the design the steer smarts was much better than others I compared. Il do the extra work to have long term results.

 

[Minty JL]

Slightly off topic............so I ordered that Metalcloak brace this morning. One of their custom service reps called me at lunch to just thank me for my order; I thought that was pretty rad

 

[21Moja]

You do.
I tried one back when I believed that it would fix my steering issues. Fought it for the better part of a day and could not get it to line up.
It's at the bottom of my pond now and my steering issues have been corrected through other means.

If the Metalcloak was out back then I probably would've installed that one.

Ive read the instructions for the SS Yeti, what was your issue? I do like it the best but what was it that wound up kicking you in the ass?

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

I've had my Synergy for quite some time now and while I've been generally been happy with it, I have not been able to keep it stable. I it needs to be retorqued (the 3/8? bolt that holds the shaft bearing housing) every 1500-2000 miles. Steering gets noticeably loose and then I have to go down there and retorque it. I've tried blue locktite. I suppose I could try RED, but at the same time I'm not sure it is the superior solution anymore.

I saw MetalCloak has a more elegant looking solution but curious if anyone has made the switch or if they are happy with it.

Try finding one of these. I have known it as an aircraft lock nut…. Probably has different technical name??
I had the same issue with a few different joints (heim joints on sway bars are even worse….)
Few different causes…. Few different solutions. Stay away from nylocks on any suspension component that has movement…..

McMaster carr can get the nut’s in this photo in almost any size/pitch.
they hold their torque the best of any other nut I have found- they can be taken on and off 25?? Times before they are trash… compared to a nylock that has a 3x?? Removal at max torque spec…. They are worth it.
Kimble Midwest can also get these nuts. Expect to pay about $6-8 a piece….. but they are worth it. If the mount wallows- your going to be in deeper than $6-8 (cost justification).
Kimble Midwest also has “mining grade” nuts- basically a grade 10+ Pinch nut, but they cost even more….

 

[FR33DOM]

Try finding one of these. I have known it as an aircraft lock nut…. Probably has different technical name??
I had the same issue with a few different joints (heim joints on sway bars are even worse….)
Few different causes…. Few different solutions. Stay away from nylocks on any suspension component that has movement…..

McMaster carr can get the nut’s in this photo in almost any size/pitch.
they hold their torque the best of any other nut I have found- they can be taken on and off 25?? Times before they are trash… compared to a nylock that has a 3x?? Removal at max torque spec…. They are worth it.
Kimble Midwest can also get these nuts. Expect to pay about $6-8 a piece….. but they are worth it. If the mount wallows- your going to be in deeper than $6-8 (cost justification).
Kimble Midwest also has “mining grade” nuts- basically a grade 10+ Pinch nut, but they cost even more….

Thanks but a nut won't fix this for me. it is the bolt that goes into the aluminum bearing housing that won't stay.

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