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hot take: Jeep reliability

Dryfly24

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There's actually a TSB for the rear caliper bolts. I saw that and thought OMG! Really?

So far on mine -
bed cover (vendor issue, IMO)
Steering gear
Battery charge thing - still unsure of what's up but suspect it's batteries - like the said was wrong with my wife's WK2.
But the batteries have always started it and except for trying to figure out the ESS constantly saying "battery charging" I'd not have even figured there was anything wrong........... I supposed at least until it ended up like my wife's, where it wouldn't start/crank.
Do you have any more info on that TSB? Strangely enough it was my driver’s side front that fell out. I’m not really sure what more they could besides make Sure they’re tightened properly unless there’s some sort of issue with the bolts or the housing themselves?

Edited to add I found it: https://www.carcomplaints.com/Jeep/Gladiator/2020/tsbs/tsb-05-006-21.shtml
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ShadowsPapa

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Do you have any more info on that TSB? Strangely enough it was my driver’s side front that fell out. I’m not really sure what more they could besides make Sure they’re tightened properly unless there’s some sort of issue with the bolts or the housing themselves?

Edited to add I found it: https://www.carcomplaints.com/Jeep/Gladiator/2020/tsbs/tsb-05-006-21.shtml
Yeah, isn't that freaky?
The TSB covers rears but so far I've seen two people talk of the fronts coming loose. Maybe they just haven't had enough reports of the fronts yet to make it to the TSB?
 

rr11

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I have to agree most mods do not improve reliability, I remember a guy I worked with who would mod his HD to death them complain of how unreliable it was. He never could understand how we both had 2003 Road Kings and I put 50,000 miles on mine and his stayed broken down.
 

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Wolf Island Diver

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It’s hard to imaging any aftermarket part improving the reliability of a vehicle. The aftermarket is chock full of fly-by-night, junk. Most quality-minded companies don’t have the resources for OEM level manufacturing and testing and lots of aftermarket parts that themselves may be perfectly good quality and even improve the performance of the vehicle often place additional stress and wear and tear on OEM systems, e.g., lift kits, big tires, etc. Mods are a trade off.
 

Wolf Island Diver

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Yeah, isn't that freaky?
The TSB covers rears but so far I've seen two people talk of the fronts coming loose. Maybe they just haven't had enough reports of the fronts yet to make it to the TSB?
My rear most passenger-side cab body mount was only hand tight. It was popping. I asked the dealership to check the torque on it. Instead they gave me the “cannot replicate BS” on the popping. Weeks later I confirmed it was indeed loose. Two other body mounts had broken bolt retainers, only the middle on one side and the front on the other had Loctite (blue). I still think one’s still loose after installing my rock sliders. You have to heat them back on or the remaining Loctite will give you a false toque reading. And apparently the mounts themselves have gone bad for some folks. Maybe in my case too. IMHO, the body mounts on these trucks are another problem area, aside from breaking bolts issue.
 

DAVECS1

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I am not convinced aftermarket parts have anything to do with the stuff I listed.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I am not convinced aftermarket parts have anything to do with the stuff I listed.
No, but they don't help in other areas.

>>Rear window<<
That vendor need a talking to......... whoever makes it for them.

>>axle seals<<
Same as above - unacceptable that Dana has made axles for decades, and this isn't THAT different than prior versions, the solution should have been simple -back out of changes made for 2021 model year. 2020 didn't leak.

>>steering gear<<
This was an issue on totally stock Jeeps.
I can understand them taking a while to find it since it wasn't ALL Jeep vehicles using that type of steering gear, but the fact there was a total design change, and materials change tells me there were some pretty serious issues with it.

>>aux battery system<<
This dates way back - what's going on here? I was told "bad batteries" - really, years later? 2018 model year Jeeps had to have batteries replaced......... this is 2022 model year. You'd think that having to pay to have hundreds of batteries replaced under warranty, they'd be looking into it.
This may have multiple "issues" causing this. Battery issues, charging system programming off for the batteries being used (over or under charging, not correctly sensing state of charge, other issues?
When I fully charge mine and leave the charger monitoring the batteries for 2 days, I find when the charger comes back on to check - the state of charge is down to 70% over night. The battery voltage drops quickly over 2 days time with no charger connected. Is it the batteries themselves, or, is there massive drain on the batteries? Why don't they charge up again when driving?
If I don't charge may batteries through all AGM charging cycles until the charger shuts down, driving it doesn't seem to increase the battery state of charge! Only if I start at 12.7 volts do they stay that high after a drive. I started out at 12.77 volts, drove the truck 25 minutes, stopped 45, then drove another 25 minutes on the highway home - and the voltage was under 12.6. That tells me they actually go down driving it.

>>rear locker<
That sensor thing was another sad deal - that should have been sealed, potted, from day one.

>>engine misfire, and valvetrain<<
IMO, weak components. Maybe they need to change the design to one with no needle bearings, like has been done for high-performance engines.

>>front suspension torque<<
You'd think that one would be fairly simple to remedy. Maybe........ equipment on many of these things sets the torque. The worker holds the tool, pulls the trigger, and it should stop at proper tightness, but then not all of these are that simple - do their machines handle torque plus number of degrees?
Torque plus angle is NOT the same as TTY, as some call it. There are two methods.
One is TA or Torque plus Angle
the other is TAY - Torque plus Angle to Yield.
The former fastener can be re-used, the latter should not be reused.
So just because you see torque plus angle or a torque spec and then a number of degrees does not make it torque to yield! Some seem to believe all TA specs mean it's torque to yield - it's not.

Anyway, TA is going to be better for suspension and steering, more reliable forces.
It requires two stages - I'd love to see how the factory handles such assemblies, I'm curious.
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