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How hard is it to install Rubi springs/shocks?

LostWoods

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I thought the caster and camber are both set and can’t be adjusted on the JT? Only toe in adjustment would be needed as far as an alignment goes.
That's unfortunately true for most vehicles these days and any shop is going to charge a single alignment price whether it be a front toe and go Jeep or adjusting all three front and rear on something more sporty.

If you do a lift with arms, you can frequently get a caster adjustment out of them (excluding Mopar and a few others) but don't be surprised when you have to pay extra for it.
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Mac

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The shops will still get some money because you’re going to need a proper alignment for toe and caster. You can get caster pretty close but the machine can tell with precision. You can also center your steering wheel your self as well and dial that in on your own. Good luck and reach out if you run into a jam.
If you are installing a Mopar 2" lift there is no alignment needed the only thing you need to do after install is center the steering wheel, takes about 5 minutes. You cannot adjust the caster with fixed control arms.
 

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I thought the caster and camber are both set and can’t be adjusted on the JT? Only toe in adjustment would be needed as far as an alignment goes.
True I was thinking adjustable arms, but either way an alignment shop would be the preferred method for toe. Camber is most certainly fixed on a stick axle. The shop can also do steering wheel centering based on toe outcome.
 

STL Gladiator

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If you are installing a Mopar 2" lift there is no alignment needed the only thing you need to do after install is center the steering wheel, takes about 5 minutes. You cannot adjust the caster with fixed control arms.
You can throw toe out just by tearing things down. It’s happened to me with just a spacer. Are you not recommending a front end check after a lift of any sort?
 

Mac

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The toe will not change with most lift kits, waste of money to have it “aligned” as there is nothing that needs adjustment other than steering wheel being centered
 

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STL Gladiator

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The toe will not change with most lift kits, waste of money to have it “aligned” as there is nothing that needs adjustment other than steering wheel being centered
Here is the toe out for my 2021 I can show you one for my 2020 too. Only speaking form experience.

F7666AB7-B844-4766-B3A8-E093DF8D270D.jpeg
 

SelfmodJT

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Hi, i know this is an old post but can someone tell me what the optimum height for jack stands to install the mopar 2 inch lift? Had a rear shock start leaking with only 2k miles on the odometer and i figured my jeep is asking for a lift lol. First time doing a lift so i hope its easy as everyone seems to say it is. Thanks for the help!
 

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Higher the better but mine go to about 21" and have worked fine.
Thanks for the info! I just ordered a pair of 12 ton jacks that go 17inch to 27inches. I know its an over kill and expensive but i plan to do all the work on this jeep should it need any work in the future besides tranny and engine removal. Better safe than sorry. Also, im watching a youtube video on the install and is it easier to replace the control arms first with both coils out? And do the springs and shocks after the control arms?
 

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Also what track bar relocation brands do you recommend. Would there be any other things i should replace that doesnt come with the kit? I dont ever plan on rock crawling unless im running for something lol. Just basic to intermediate trails and overlanding. I will only be installing 34 inch tires max because i have a manual and do not plan to regear. I may install a supercharger once my warranty is expired though. Also, any first timers install this lift and have any suggestions that would make it easier? Thanks for the info, if anyone needs electrical install help for any components let me know. Far more versed in tackling electrical issues.
 

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Just adding my experience to this thread for others who are looking to self-install. I watched several videos on youtube of the install and was confident my dad and I could handle the project. Some things I learned:
1 - While not absolutely necessary, a heavy duty impact wrench will be your best friend. Those control arm bolts would not budge. We are not small or weak men. The Kentucky impact (sledge on the wrench) wouldn't work either. Ended up using my 3 ton floor jack to leverage the wrench to break the bolts free. We spent more time fudging with these than anything. 190 ft/lbs retorquing!
2 - Springs came out okay (stretched the break line/ABS line to the max without disconnecting) but still had to muscle it some. Getting the fronts in was doable (inlcuding 3/4" Daystar puck) but the rear springs on the Mopar lift are quite a bit taller and beefier. No way we were going to get those in without spring compressors. Ran to the local auto supply shop and borrowed a set. Ended up compressing about 2.5-3" to get them to just clear and in.
3 - The front bump stops will have you creating new swear words. Get a quarter inch drive ratchet with extension and a pivot joint. Also, large jaw channel locks or something similar to hold the sucker in place while it's in your spring. You'll still swear but not as much.
4 - Having an extra jack or set of jack stands was very helpful. I had a floor jack and two stands. Ended up getting out the spare jack to help the axle to flex a bit more.
5 - This took about 12 hrs over two days (including a run to get the spring compressors and 1 lunch break). We did not rush anything and made sure everything was torqued/aligned properly.
6 - It was fun. This was my first project of this scale but learned so much about my jeep. I feel much more confident knowing what is needed if something were to break/wear out. If you have the tools, time, and space I highly recommend giving it a go!
 

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Did you do it one corner at a time? By this I mean having the other three wheels on and on the ground only taking off one wheel at a time. I have done mine several times for various reasons and found this to be the easiest method, the front springs just drop out, rears take a little work but fairly easy this way with no need for a spring compressor.
 

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Did you do it one corner at a time? By this I mean having the other three wheels on and on the ground only taking off one wheel at a time. I have done mine several times for various reasons and found this to be the easiest method, the front springs just drop out, rears take a little work but fairly easy this way with no need for a spring compressor.
No we did it front axle then rear. Knowing what I know now I think I could easily shave 3-4hrs off the install time. I thought about trying that on the rear but I had already flexed my lines and didn't want to mess with disconnecting those. That might be another lesson learned.
 
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Jeeperjamie

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No we did it front axle then rear. Knowing what I know now I think I could easily shave 3-4hrs off the install time. I thought about trying that on the rear but I had already flexed my lines and didn't want to mess with disconnecting those. That might be another lesson learned.
Should of unhooked the brake lines and dropped the axle. I had mine on in about 2 hours front and rear, that's about the easiest way I've saw to do it. I had no experience before installing mine and did it in the driveway. Two floor jacks and jack stands.
 

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Should of unhooked the brake lines and dropped the axle. I had mine on in about 2 hours front and rear, that's about the easiest way I've saw to do it. I had no experience before installing mine and did it in the driveway. Two floor jacks and jack stands.
Did you disconnect them completely? I removed the brackets on the frame/control arms. If that's the case, I am definitely doing that for any future projects.
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