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How to disconnect batteries

Aleph

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Electrical noob here. I’m leaving the truck in the garage for 2 months and want to disconnect the batteries for this time on the off chance the power steering pump catches fire due to the recall. I don’t have a place to park the vehicle outside.

I disconnected the main and supplemental battery cables but the truck still has power. Should I disconnect the IBS cable as well?
Pictured is the main and supplemental battery cables taped off with electrical tape. The IBS cable is still on there but the manual says not to disconnect it otherwise the IBS will go into learning mode for 24 hours. Not sure why the manual says to not disconnect the IBS if truck electricals are still functioning and draining the battery.

I’m guessing I just need to disconnect the main negative terminal completely?

Jeep Gladiator How to disconnect batteries IMG_9768
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The easiest way is to leave everything connected and just disconnect the negative cable attached to the frame.

The batteries are paralleled together. The negative from the Aux Battery connects to the negative on the Main Battery, which then connects to the frame.
 
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Aleph

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Figured it out. I had the aux and main battery cables taped up together and that was my mistake. So the vehicle was basically being powered by just the aux battery. I isolated them both and now the vehicle has no power. Yay thanks.

In other related news I dropped the 10 mm nut (that holds the jumper connecting the two negative battery cables) into the engine bay. So it’s lost forever. Would any 10 mm nut work to replace this?
 

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Electrical noob here. I’m leaving the truck in the garage for 2 months and want to disconnect the batteries for this time on the off chance the power steering pump catches fire due to the recall. I don’t have a place to park the vehicle outside.

I disconnected the main and supplemental battery cables but the truck still has power. Should I disconnect the IBS cable as well?
Pictured is the main and supplemental battery cables taped off with electrical tape. The IBS cable is still on there but the manual says not to disconnect it otherwise the IBS will go into learning mode for 24 hours. Not sure why the manual says to not disconnect the IBS if truck electricals are still functioning and draining the battery.

I’m guessing I just need to disconnect the main negative terminal completely?

IMG_9768.webp
To totally cut power and kill all electrical drains on your Gladiator, you must disconnect the main negative battery cable. Disconnecting this single cable removes the ground connection. This prevents power from flowing and completely shuts down the truck.
 

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Figured it out. I had the aux and main battery cables taped up together and that was my mistake. So the vehicle was basically being powered by just the aux battery. I isolated them both and now the vehicle has no power. Yay thanks.

In other related news I dropped the 10 mm nut (that holds the jumper connecting the two negative battery cables) into the engine bay. So it’s lost forever. Would any 10 mm nut work to replace this?
There are various thread pitches, typically two main options, so it is possible to find a 10mm nut that does not fit. If the thread pitch is wrong the nut will appear to start threading on and then stop within maybe a quarter turn.

As mentioned, the best way to disconnect a battery to stop battery drain or the risk of electrical fire is to pull the ground. In fact, it is smart to always disconnect the ground first when removing a battery. It is safer that way.
 

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We tend to use the term "10 mm nut" when a 10 mm wrench fits it. The threads on the nut are probably 6 mm I believe. Any way, when you go to the hardware store look for the proper size nut and get one in both thread pitches, in fact get 2 in each pitch. That way you have spares. I have small Mason jars on my workbench with various nuts, bolts, washers that I have collected over the years and can usually find the right one to fit. I was routing some wires to the grab handle on the driver's A pillar once and the handle was missing one of the bolts that holds it on. Dang if I didn't have a bolt in my "possibles" jars that worked. And I am lucky, there is an Ace Hardware only 3 blocks from home, woe be it to him that drives 20 miles to a Home Depot and comes home with the wrong size nut or bolt.
 

Lost1wing

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Figured it out. I had the aux and main battery cables taped up together and that was my mistake. So the vehicle was basically being powered by just the aux battery. I isolated them both and now the vehicle has no power. Yay thanks.

In other related news I dropped the 10 mm nut (that holds the jumper connecting the two negative battery cables) into the engine bay. So it’s lost forever. Would any 10 mm nut work to replace this?
So while you were figuring it out, you were discharging the aux pretty rapidly. If not too late, charge both of your batteries before you head out. Your batteries will thank you.

If not able to charge both batteries now, do it before you reconnect them. As mentioned, that fender ground should be the last cable to reconnect.
 

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So while you were figuring it out, you were discharging the aux pretty rapidly. If not too late, charge both of your batteries before you head out. Your batteries will thank you.

If not able to charge both batteries now, do it before you reconnect them. As mentioned, that fender ground should be the last cable to reconnect.
The aux battery negative was just connected to ground, shouldn't result in rapid discharge.
 

Lost1wing

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The aux battery negative was just connected to ground, shouldn't result in rapid discharge.
I'm sorry. I didn't mean rapid, as in short to ground. I was referring to only the small battery connected, powering displays and the various modules. This will quickly deplete the small battery and the results may vary.

One thing that could happen would be a no start at first. Once the main has been connected for a while, the vehicle will crank and start. Then you would have 2 batteries that are in dire need of a full charge.

When I disconnect my batteries, the fender ground is the first cable to be removed. It can be the end at the main negative, but I choose the fender side.
 
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Aleph

Aleph

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So while you were figuring it out, you were discharging the aux pretty rapidly. If not too late, charge both of your batteries before you head out. Your batteries will thank you.

If not able to charge both batteries now, do it before you reconnect them. As mentioned, that fender ground should be the last cable to reconnect.
It was for 30 minutes vehicle parked not doing anything.
Considering just getting new batteries when I get back. Vehicle is 2-3 years old at this point
 

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Lost1wing

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It was for 30 minutes vehicle parked not doing anything.
Considering just getting new batteries when I get back. Vehicle is 2-3 years old at this point
Charging both could work out just fine. I'm pushing 7 years since my 2019 build date. My original batteries keep going. I keep a trickle charger on them when out of town. I recommend a trickle charger on most anything.
 
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Aleph

Aleph

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Charging both could work out just fine. I'm pushing 7 years since my 2019 build date. My original batteries keep going. I keep a trickle charger on them when out of town. I recommend a trickle charger on most anything.
How do I charge both when I get back home? Do I need to pull the fender and access the aux battery? Should I trickle charge or is there a way to charge faster?
 

Lost1wing

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The positive clamp on your charger goes on the main battery positive terminal. The negative would go on the top plate of the main negative( above the IBS). This will charge both batteries.

In your case, you will need to charge independently. Connect the positive clamp to the main battery positive terminal and the negative clamp to the negative cable that you removed form the plate above the IBS. This will charge only the Aux battery ( assuming you have connected to the aux neg cable and not the fender ground cable). When the aux has finished charging, just move the negative charger clamp to the main negative post. When the main is finished charging, momentary disconnect the IBS sensor cable. This will ensure the IBS has been reset.

Once both batteries are fully charged, you can maintain a full charge on both batteries by connecting the charger the way I first explained.

Use an AGM battery charger.
You can use a 2 amp trickle charger, it just takes some time. Usually it takes overnight to finish. I would get an automatic 10amp or even a 5amp AGM charger. No need to remove either battery
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