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hjdca

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I was considering 4.88 but I'm curious now as to why not 4.56 if your not planning on going any taller than 37's. The 8spd does pretty darn well with 4.10 gears on mine. Did another video this morning of mine and I feel like 4.56 would be the sweet spot unless your towing a ton of weight then i could see 4.88 or 5.13, but for the average commute wouldn't 4.56 be closer to where the stock gearing is at? Just a question not trying to say 4.88 or 5.13 is a bad choice.


The easy answer is faster acceleration and more torque/power from stop light to stop light. It is not only the highway rpm to consider, but, also the great acceleration and torque multiplication you get with 4:88 and 5:13s.
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Jeeperjamie

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The easy answer is faster acceleration and more torque/power from stop light to stop light. It is not only the highway rpm to consider, but, also the great acceleration and torque multiplication you get with 4:88 and 5:13s.
Mine has pretty decent acceleration as well. Once again not trying to say 4.88 or 5.13 is bad but haven't seen much data to prove 4.56 isn't good either with the auto 8spd.

 
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I've also seen from some YouTubers that at cruising speeds of 70mph with 5.13 on 8 Speed Auto, when you try to pass other cars the transmission will not down shift. Even in manual mode.
 
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I've also seen from some YouTubers that at cruising speeds of 70mph with 5.13 on 8 Speed Auto, when you try to pass other cars the transmission will not down shift. Even in manual mode.
 

hjdca

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I've also seen from some YouTubers that at cruising speeds of 70mph with 5.13 on 8 Speed Auto, when you try to pass other cars the transmission will not down shift. Even in manual mode.
Yes, good point. I have no experience with the automatic. I have the manual, so, I can put it in any gear I want. I have no problem passing in 4th or 5th gear (6 speed manual) with the 5:13s. One of my normal scenarios is to be in 6th gear on the fwy, then, come up to a hill, down shift to 4th, climb the hill between 3K and 4K rpm, then, shift directly from 4th to 6th when I get to the top of the hill.
 

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I’m at 35s and 3.73s right now

I’m going to wait til 37s til I regear and I’ll go 4.88. The math says closer to 4.56 but the 3.6 is happier in a place on the freeway that will be better with 4.88s

I think anything deeper is overkill on an auto
For a guy who’d have to pay for all this work to be done, what’s your best estimate for quality wheels/tires (A/T) and the regearing?
I love the ride and look of my stock Mojave now and off road hunting it performs great as is
 

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For a guy who’d have to pay for all this work to be done, what’s your best estimate for quality wheels/tires (A/T) and the regearing?
I love the ride and look of my stock Mojave now and off road hunting it performs great as is
Depends on if your going to 37's or 35's

For tires probably $1200 to $1800 for 4 mounted and balanced depending on if you go 35 or 37

Wheels between $800 to $1000

Regear around $1800 to $2200 depending on where you live.

Lower end you be at around $4000 with a good 35, a good 37 closer to $5000
 

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... I realized I need to regear.

A year of mostly city driving kept me blissful ignorant. Then a trip from South San Francisco to Sacramento, in mostly 6th gear, has brought me to the reality that 35s on 3.75 gears are not ideal.

Now my question to you good people, 4.11 or 4.88 Gears? Like I said, mostly city miles but that trip to Sac was a little unnerving.
Like others have suggested, I don’t believe 4.11 is enough change. I have 37’s and have gone with 4.88. On relatively flat roads I normally am in 7th or 8th. With 4.11’s I was in 5th, 6th and maybe 7th, hitting 8th only down hill.

If I did it again with 37’s I’d go 4.88 at a minimum. With 35’s I probably start looking at 4.56 or 4.88. That is, unless you tow a significant amount or do a of very hilly, mountain type driving.
 

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I have always been advised and believe it is true that it is not worth it just to change gears for just the next size. If you are looking at 37s, I'd say 4.88 is the minimum
 

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I have always been advised and believe it is true that it is not worth it just to change gears for just the next size. If you are looking at 37s, I'd say 4.88 is the minimum
Why would just changing for the next size not be worth it. If you go larger than 37's then you got to start thinking about more than just regearing, you gotta start thinking about axle reinforcement, bigger ball joints, beefier suspension parts. I for one am only planning on 37's and nothing larger. If your going larger than 37's then towing is pretty much out the window and your pushing it with 37's.
 

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My Mojave is on 35s. After a couple months of driving I’ve realized a couple of things. First, I want 37s eventually. Second, I want to regear soon. In the next few months I’m going 4.88s. Is it a want and not a need? Absolutely. The 8sp does fine with 35” tires. I just think it’ll do better with 4.88s.
 

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My Mojave is on 35s. After a couple months of driving I’ve realized a couple of things. First, I want 37s eventually. Second, I want to regear soon. In the next few months I’m going 4.88s. Is it a want and not a need? Absolutely. The 8sp does fine with 35” tires. I just think it’ll do better with 4.88s.
This is the same deal I'm in.

When I go 37s I'm going to 4.88s
 

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I guess for me I'm trying to compare My 2010 JKU to the JT when it comes to gearing. On the 2010 JKU with a 5spd 3.8 with 205HP and 240 Ft LBs of torque 4.56 on 35's got you pretty much back to stock. I had 3.73 gears on my 2010 and it did alright on 35 and awful on 37. My buddies 2008 JKUR with 4.10 gears was almost tolerable on 35's but was perfect when he went to 4.56 and you could still run a 37 that was not that heavy and still be ok. Comparing those numbers to the JT i would think 4.88 would be way to tall for 35's and it would be really bad when passing, like you would have to really get on it to make it gear down. I'm not a total wiz at the match or knowing about gear ratios that work best, but with added HP, torque and gears in the JT it seems to me that 4.10 or 4.56 would be the tallest you would want to go with 35's unless you plan on swapping to 37's soon.
 

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I guess for me I'm trying to compare My 2010 JKU to the JT when it comes to gearing. On the 2010 JKU with a 5spd 3.8 with 205HP and 240 Ft LBs of torque 4.56 on 35's got you pretty much back to stock. I had 3.73 gears on my 2010 and it did alright on 35 and awful on 37. My buddies 2008 JKUR with 4.10 gears was almost tolerable on 35's but was perfect when he went to 4.56 and you could still run a 37 that was not that heavy and still be ok. Comparing those numbers to the JT i would think 4.88 would be way to tall for 35's and it would be really bad when passing, like you would have to really get on it to make it gear down. I'm not a total wiz at the match or knowing about gear ratios that work best, but with added HP, torque and gears in the JT it seems to me that 4.10 or 4.56 would be the tallest you would want to go with 35's unless you plan on swapping to 37's soon.
I agree with you. If you plan on staying with 35s then 4.56 would be the sweet spot.
 

hjdca

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Why would just changing for the next size not be worth it. If you go larger than 37's then you got to start thinking about more than just regearing, you gotta start thinking about axle reinforcement, bigger ball joints, beefier suspension parts. I for one am only planning on 37's and nothing larger. If your going larger than 37's then towing is pretty much out the window and your pushing it with 37's.
My answer to this is pretty simple. For me the 4:10s on the Rubicon with 33" tires is not enough gear for even the stock vehicle.... Chrysler does this so in the high gear, at sea level, on perfectly level ground, they can squeak some additional highway mileage, maybe..... So, once you come to that opinion, then, a 2 step change gear change for bigger tires is a slam dunk.
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