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I'm building my idea of a perfect (for me) Gladiator rack

MotoBrad

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I I read this post,e the link to thatthose nuts on Amazon shows that they are out out of stock. I used these from McMaster Carr on a different project. They are black oxide, which should have slightly better corrosion resistance than plain old steel.

https://www.mcmaster.com/94750a111

Also, it's my understanding that gladiator rails are wider than Tacoma rails. The McMaster Carr nuts are for a 5/8" slot, and the neck is not longer than the thickness of the gladiator rail face. In other words, a perfect fit!

I was splashing through salt water last weekend, though, and everything got soaked. Stainless steel would be best!
[/QUOTE]

Has anybody confirmed the fitment of the McMaster Carr T slot nuts? I am about to pull the trigger on them for a bed rack system I'm building.
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bheath-atx

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I I read this post,e the link to thatthose nuts on Amazon shows that they are out out of stock. I used these from McMaster Carr on a different project. They are black oxide, which should have slightly better corrosion resistance than plain old steel.

https://www.mcmaster.com/94750a111

Also, it's my understanding that gladiator rails are wider than Tacoma rails. The McMaster Carr nuts are for a 5/8" slot, and the neck is not longer than the thickness of the gladiator rail face. In other words, a perfect fit!

I was splashing through salt water last weekend, though, and everything got soaked. Stainless steel would be best!
Has anybody confirmed the fitment of the McMaster Carr T slot nuts? I am about to pull the trigger on them for a bed rack system I'm building.
[/QUOTE]
I used the spring loaded nuts from Unistrut that I bought at Home Depot. They were in stock and work great. Here is the 3/8" version but they have several sizes

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Superst...nel-Spring-Nut-5-Pack-ZA1003-8EG-10/100179881
 
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Has anybody confirmed the fitment of the McMaster Carr T slot nuts? I am about to pull the trigger on them for a bed rack system I'm building.
I used the spring loaded nuts from Unistrut that I bought at Home Depot. They were in stock and work great. Here is the 3/8" version but they have several sizes

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Superst...nel-Spring-Nut-5-Pack-ZA1003-8EG-10/100179881
[/QUOTE]

What are the dimensions of the McMaster Carr T-Slot Nuts? We can compare them to the others

Those springnuts are not the most convenient things to use. I'm kinda surprised you like using them for the trail rails or are you using them for another purpose? They're OK for the right application but I've snipped off the springs on several occasions just to use the nuts alone.

There are T-nuts all over Amazon but most aren't Stainless Steel. If you can't get any SS units I'd go with others while waiting for the SS ones.
 

bheath-atx

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I used the spring loaded nuts from Unistrut that I bought at Home Depot. They were in stock and work great. Here is the 3/8" version but they have several sizes

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Superst...nel-Spring-Nut-5-Pack-ZA1003-8EG-10/100179881
What are the dimensions of the McMaster Carr T-Slot Nuts? We can compare them to the others

Those springnuts are not the most convenient things to use. I'm kinda surprised you like using them for the trail rails or are you using them for another purpose? They're OK for the right application but I've snipped off the springs on several occasions just to use the nuts alone.

There are T-nuts all over Amazon but most aren't Stainless Steel. If you can't get any SS units I'd go with others while waiting for the SS ones.
[/QUOTE]
I used them on the trail rails. I attached D-RIngs to them and also used them to attach to the Compact Camper brackets. They work good on the D-RIngs, so so on the brackets when they are removed.
 

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These cone nuts work well in the bed rails. No spring to deal with.

5C1B3AAF-9804-49A9-BD50-973DC27AE86C.jpeg
 

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Cone nuts are the best. I got tired of fighting spring nuts...
 
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Cone nuts are the best. I got tired of fighting spring nuts...
These cone nuts work well in the bed rails. No spring to deal with.

5C1B3AAF-9804-49A9-BD50-973DC27AE86C.jpeg
Cone nuts are the best. I got tired of fighting spring nuts...
Agreed - that's what I used to attach the Superstrut crossbars to the Tower Brackets - they work way better than the spring nuts

From post #125...

I also replaced the Spring Nuts (right) with the Cone Nuts (left) - they work much better for this application.

screen-shot-2020-07-27-at-4-26-12-pm-png.png
 

bheath-atx

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I use the cone nuts also on things I won't be moving. They work well. I haven't had enough issues with the spring nuts to make it worth replacing them yet. Maybe it's because I am using the Builtright trail rails, not Unistrut.
 

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So I have finally gotten my rack parts painted, and my Roof Top Tent arrived, and it's all now put together.

In sum, I have:
1) Ace Engineering Upper Decker
2) Custom Camping Concepts Towers and Bars
3) Welded plates on the Towers that bolt to the Upper Decker
4) Front Runner Rooftop Tent and Annex

It all works great. My only issue overall is that the Upper Decker will no longer stay up all on its own, due to the total weight. I can open it, but I'll need to get something to hold it open if I need it that way temporarily.

All in all, though, I am very happy with the set-up. Driving at speed shows little noise, even with my Bestop sunrider open. Pleny of space in the bed (under the Upper Decker) and on top of the Decker (under the tent). Pleny of visibility out of the back window.

Now just to get out camping!

IMG_4033.jpg


Jeep Tent (Packed 1).jpg


Jeep Tent (Packed 2).jpg


Jeep Tent Annex 1).jpg


Jeep Tent Annex 2).jpg


Jeep Tent Opened.jpg
 
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So I have finally gotten my rack parts painted, and my Roof Top Tent arrived, and it's all now put together.

In sum, I have:
1) Ace Engineering Upper Decker
2) Custom Camping Concepts Towers and Bars
3) Welded plates on the Towers that bolt to the Upper Decker
4) Front Runner Rooftop Tent and Annex

It all works great. My only issue overall is that the Upper Decker will no longer stay up all on its own, due to the total weight. I can open it, but I'll need to get something to hold it open if I need it that way temporarily.

All in all, though, I am very happy with the set-up. Driving at speed shows little noise, even with my Bestop sunrider open. Pleny of space in the bed (under the Upper Decker) and on top of the Decker (under the tent). Pleny of visibility out of the back window.

Now just to get out camping!

Jeep Gladiator I'm building my idea of a perfect (for me) Gladiator rack Jeep Tent Opened


Jeep Gladiator I'm building my idea of a perfect (for me) Gladiator rack Jeep Tent Opened


Jeep Gladiator I'm building my idea of a perfect (for me) Gladiator rack Jeep Tent Opened


Jeep Gladiator I'm building my idea of a perfect (for me) Gladiator rack Jeep Tent Opened


Jeep Gladiator I'm building my idea of a perfect (for me) Gladiator rack Jeep Tent Opened


Jeep Gladiator I'm building my idea of a perfect (for me) Gladiator rack Jeep Tent Opened
Nicely done! Great to see what you've built!

Rather than using a "stick" (block, etc.) to keep the Upper Decker up/open, can you add more or stronger struts to do that?
 

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LTCSlacker

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So I have finally gotten my rack parts painted, and my Roof Top Tent arrived, and it's all now put together.

In sum, I have:
1) Ace Engineering Upper Decker
2) Custom Camping Concepts Towers and Bars
3) Welded plates on the Towers that bolt to the Upper Decker
4) Front Runner Rooftop Tent and Annex

It all works great. My only issue overall is that the Upper Decker will no longer stay up all on its own, due to the total weight. I can open it, but I'll need to get something to hold it open if I need it that way temporarily.

All in all, though, I am very happy with the set-up. Driving at speed shows little noise, even with my Bestop sunrider open. Pleny of space in the bed (under the Upper Decker) and on top of the Decker (under the tent). Pleny of visibility out of the back window.

Now just to get out camping!
Nicely done! Great to see what you've built!

Rather than using a "stick" (block, etc.) to keep the Upper Decker up/open, can you add more or stronger struts to do that?
Yes! I could possible get some new gas struts that are more powerful, as long as they can fit in the allotted (pre-drilled) space. I need to check into that.
 

marcwithac

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Just got a PM asking me for info on the components I used so I figured I'd bring most every item together in one post...

Everything is in this thread but here are most of the components and/or links to them:

The Stainless Steel T-Nuts for the Trail Rail are from Amazon:
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...rfect-for-me-gladiator-rack.27705/post-537427

I used 8 brackets (2/upper bracket) from Max Modular - that info is here. They are good brackets but too much $$$ partly because they wouldn't sell me just the brackets - they made me purchase them with their other bracket components.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...rfect-for-me-gladiator-rack.27705/post-448686

But you can go with 4 brackets if you use the ones now made by Scott Chaney at Compact Camping Concepts https://compactcampingstore.com/collections/all
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...rfect-for-me-gladiator-rack.27705/post-528897
Scott's email is [email protected]

These are the upper brackets - they also came from Scott at Compact Camping Concepts
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...rfect-for-me-gladiator-rack.27705/post-448701
https://compactcampingstore.com/collections/trailer-racks/products/pickup-bed-rail-base-brackets

And the Superstrut I purchased from Home Depot - covered in the most recent posts. The Superstrut comes in 8 foot lengths so you can make them as long (crossbars as wide) as you want. I cut them with a hacksaw using my cheap miter box to keep the cut straight.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...rfect-for-me-gladiator-rack.27705/post-537427

I painted all the components with Rustoleum Galaxy after prepping them. The Galaxy (black metallic) paint is great but it's almost impossible to find right now as I'm told Rustoleum has 4 plants closed due to the pandemic. Paint info here:
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...rfect-for-me-gladiator-rack.27705/post-448708

Tubular Basket is here:
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...rfect-for-me-gladiator-rack.27705/post-448741

I'm now using the Home Depot sourced Superstrut U-brackets which work much better than the brackets that come with the Basket. I painted them Rustoleum Galaxy Black too.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...rfect-for-me-gladiator-rack.27705/post-537427

And the stainless steel bolts I got from Lowe's - they have a much better selection of specialty hardware than Home Depot.
This is awesome. I just wish the upper brackets were slightly shorter. Could they not be a few inches shorter and still allow the tonneau to roll up?
 

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This is a rack I just built for my Titan. I finished it right before I picked up the Gladiator. I gave this truck to my son and traded his on the JT.

This rack was really stout. We used a tube laser to cut the details.

Powder coated it satin black. My guess 800 lbs + would be no issue for the rack.

8DB5DD49-9ACC-468B-8C3B-C057CFE8EC2A.jpeg


70CFDE42-12CC-4C9A-9995-7259F32613A0.jpeg


CF153FE1-ABCD-4B1D-8502-CDAF83C58767.jpeg
 
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This is awesome. I just wish the upper brackets were slightly shorter. Could they not be a few inches shorter and still allow the tonneau to roll up?
Sorry, just saw this now. It's possible but I'm unsure if the tonneau could still be rolled up if the upper brackets were a "few inches shorter."
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