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Is this build the Caddie ride I am dreaming of?

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2025 Rubicon X Gladiator. Stock 1800mi.

I want a serious off roader for ruts and rock 5-6 trail worthy. I bought a Rubicon for a reason. I’m thinking of a metal cloak suspension 3 1/2 inch game changer with their red shocks(maybe even better shocks), 37 inch Nitto Trail grappler on method 307 wheels. My main question is this thing gonna give me the ride I’m hoping for and do any of you have the experience to actually speak to this? I don’t mind spending the money as long as I get what I want in the end. I really don’t want shimmy , rubbing too much, etc. 5.13 gears and drive lines with big knuckles are on the list too.

what steering components if any do I need to add to this to get it to be the ride that I’m hoping for , sweet on the road and tough off road.
I am going to replace all of the steering at the time of build so it all will be new. Are the things you did that help Gladiators on 37”?

I don’t expect it to last for forever, but I at least wanted to get four or 5000 good miles before I’m having to start changing things

What to do 1st? Good shop in So. Oregon?

pics help greatly
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Free2roam

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I went Fusion 4X4 for the steering. 2.5 Fox Elites and 2.5 Clayton Overland lift. Also have Icon Rebound Pros -6 It is a diesel and I carry a lot of weight. Just my setup. How about Northern California for a shop? Hit up @CrazyCooter he did my shocks. Still loving them. Also Apex disconnects.


Damn keep thinking of more things

Search the forum for the triangulated 4 link threads. There's a few people on here who have done it. The one who I seem to remember was @TheSolarWizard don't remember his exact setup.
Jeep Gladiator Is this build the Caddie ride I am dreaming of? IMG_20250826_200750020
Jeep Gladiator Is this build the Caddie ride I am dreaming of? IMG_20251031_143046778_HDR
Jeep Gladiator Is this build the Caddie ride I am dreaming of? IMG_20251031_143130592_HDR
 
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Bandit’s Lair

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You’re on the right track. Quality lift and steering components is the way to go. Something else to think about is “hardening” the components. Quality ball joints, reinforcing components and all that jazz will give you peace of mind and allow you to go explore without as much concern. Research, research, research. Then build. Run a few trails to see where you’re at and you’ll know where it needs to go. If you feel it needs stiffer springs to make it suited to your driving style go that route. Adjustable shocks to really dial in what you want are available in MANY forms.

Rubicon X should be able to do most 5 rated trails as it is if you wheel intelligently.
 

caryt

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Best ride will be a LA kit and ADS 3 tube bypass shocks set up by a tuner live, I'd recommend making a call to Phill @ Liberty Mountain Fab and talk to him about your requirements.
 

Gizmo

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For shocks don't over look Bilstein 8100 DSA. Adjust how "YOU" want by turning each knob instead of paying a tuner and hope you both have the same idea as to what a nice ride is . Plus you can change the setting as your needs change in 30 seconds
 
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caryt

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So I can take it that you have never had custom shocks or had them live tuned.
 
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I went Fusion 4X4 for the steering. 2.5 Fox Elites and 2.5 Clayton Overland lift. Also have Icon Rebound Pros -6 It is a diesel and I carry a lot of weight. Just my setup. How about Northern California for a shop? Hit up @CrazyCooter he did my shocks. Still loving them. Also Apex disconnects.


Damn keep thinking of more things

Search the forum for the triangulated 4 link threads. There's a few people on here who have done it. The one who I seem to remember was @TheSolarWizard don't remember his exact setup.
IMG_20250826_200750020.webp
IMG_20251031_143046778_HDR.webp
IMG_20251031_143130592_HDR.webp
Great pics and I appreciate it. California means taxes gotta try and stay out of there. Oregon hopefully or maybe even Idaho If I can find a shop. I am still looking locally. So hopefully
 

Free2roam

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Great pics and I appreciate it. California means taxes gotta try and stay out of there. Oregon hopefully or maybe even Idaho If I can find a shop. I am still looking locally. So hopefully
Taxes one one way or another. The guy I mentioned has two businesses that are top notch!
 

Dilly’S Willy

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Just remember, Shocks control "unsprung" weight (axles/wheels/tires/brakes) and Springs control "sprung" weight the body and everything attached.

Shocks also have 2 types of dampening:
- Compression: When the wheel goes OVER something/up into the fender
- Rebound: When the wheel droops DOWN/INTO something BELOW the normal road surface

Springs come in 2 main flavors:
- Static/Linear: The amount of weight/force to compress 1" (1 inch) doesn't change as the spring compresses
- Progressive/Multi-rate: Sometimes called "dual-rate" or "triple-rate" springs, or "Progressive rate" are generally softer in the 1st/initial stage, then get stiffer as they compress to hold weight (towing) or have better control in turns/braking or maintain body height in extreme compressions (off-roading).

The type of driving you do, the type of roads you drive on, the static/curb weight (all added accessories) and whether front vs rear location, if you tow, what engine, and other things like what your definition of "comfort" is...all play an important role in what parts you should choose.
- Don't lift is 6"+ if you never need that clearance and just drive on pavement to work on a curvy highway.
- Using shocks/springs that are too firm (diesel/towing) vs soft/compliant (gas/city/crawling).

Best to pick parts that closely match what/where/how YOU drive MOST OFTEN will make you happiest.

Or be that guy who buys a 12kg/15kg coilover setup with pillowball tophats, solid/thick sway bars, 315 width tires and 19x20" wheels, then complains it drives like a full-race car and your teeth hurt.
 
OP
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For shocks don't over look Bilstein 8100 DSA. Adjust how "YOU" want by turning each knob instead of paying a tuner and hope you both have the same idea as to what a nice ride is . Plus you can change the setting as your needs change in 30 seconds
Nice Jeep
You’re on the right track. Quality lift and steering components is the way to go. Something else to think about is “hardening” the components. Quality ball joints, reinforcing components and all that jazz will give you peace of mind and allow you to go explore without as much concern. Research, research, research. Then build. Run a few trails to see where you’re at and you’ll know where it needs to go. If you feel it needs stiffer springs to make it suited to your driving style go that route. Adjustable shocks to really dial in what you want are available in MANY forms.

Rubicon X should be able to do most 5 rated trails as it is if you wheel intelligently.
boy, you ain’t kidding about research that’s why I’m on here
Just remember, Shocks control "unsprung" weight (axles/wheels/tires/brakes) and Springs control "sprung" weight the body and everything attached.

Shocks also have 2 types of dampening:
- Compression: When the wheel goes OVER something/up into the fender
- Rebound: When the wheel droops DOWN/INTO something BELOW the normal road surface

Springs come in 2 main flavors:
- Static/Linear: The amount of weight/force to compress 1" (1 inch) doesn't change as the spring compresses
- Progressive/Multi-rate: Sometimes called "dual-rate" or "triple-rate" springs, or "Progressive rate" are generally softer in the 1st/initial stage, then get stiffer as they compress to hold weight (towing) or have better control in turns/braking or maintain body height in extreme compressions (off-roading).

The type of driving you do, the type of roads you drive on, the static/curb weight (all added accessories) and whether front vs rear location, if you tow, what engine, and other things like what your definition of "comfort" is...all play an important role in what parts you should choose.
- Don't lift is 6"+ if you never need that clearance and just drive on pavement to work on a curvy highway.
- Using shocks/springs that are too firm (diesel/towing) vs soft/compliant (gas/city/crawling).

Best to pick parts that closely match what/where/how YOU drive MOST OFTEN will make you happiest.

Or be that guy who buys a 12kg/15kg coilover setup with pillowball tophats, solid/thick sway bars, 315 width tires and 19x20" wheels, then complains it drives like a full-race car and your teeth hurt.
thanks-that says so much…
 
 







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