Jeep Gladiator Overland Gears. 4.88 Gears recommended help.

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Hello!
First post here! Been reading through these forums for awhile and finally posting. New to this Jeep world, loving every minute of it! There is so much- everywhere! I need a little recommendation with a few parts in regards to gears. I live in Iowa, moderate hills here and not a whole lot of serious crawling or off roading happening.

Current setup
JT overland 3.73 gears:
40k miles, 33” open country r/t’s 33x12.5x18
Fox 2.0 steering
no lift

Upgrading to:
4.88 gears (need brand recommendations w/links?) my shop asked if I could find a loaded front and rear carrier?
New ball joints? (Recommendations)
3.5” Clayton ride right
Fox 2.0 shocks
37” nitto grapplers
(Undecided wheel size)
Adam’s drive shaft after lift.

Can I get some recommendations for front and rear loaded carriers? And/or some recommendations on 4.88 gears to go with? There is so much out there, I would like to make sure I provide my shop with everything they need to get the job done.

Also, I would like to replace the ball joints during this whole process, are there brand recommendations one could provide as well?
Anything else you guys would suggest would be great. Thanks fam!





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BryantJT

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You can get gears straight from Jeep or another popular choice is Yukon Gear. I don't think I've seen loaded carriers, always just ring and pinion sets and a master install kit.
 
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You can get gears straight from Jeep or another popular choice is Yukon Gear. I don't think I've seen loaded carriers, always just ring and pinion sets and a master install kit.
I need the “master install kit” right?
 

BryantJT

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My brother works for a Chevy dealer and their service department works on axles from time to time but they had no idea what to do for his 2009 JK to fix a pinion seal and regear it.

Ideally you want to go to an offroad shop, a Jeep dealer that caters to enthusiasts, or a driveline shop.

I live in a rural area and have no idea where to start if I wanted to regear, but again, it wouldn't be with a shop looking at you to source the parts.
 
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My brother works for a Chevy dealer and their service department works on axles from time to time but they had no idea what to do for his 2009 JK to fix a pinion seal and regear it.

Ideally you want to go to an offroad shop, a Jeep dealer that caters to enthusiasts, or a driveline shop.

I live in a rural area and have no idea where to start if I wanted to regear, but again, it wouldn't be with a shop looking at you to source the parts.
Well, this shop has had great reviews with regearing in town. There really isn’t a lot of options in my area. I called and spoke with him and he spoke about the Jeep community usually knowing what they want when it comes to Jeep parts. He isn’t looking to sell anyone on anything- to his defense he just stated that I pick out what I want, bring it to him, and he’ll put in the work to make sure it’s 100.He stands behind his workmanship and will be fully supportive if any issues turn up after the job is done. I was pleased with our conversation, just wanting to make sure I bring everything to him without having to order additional parts.
 

WK2JT

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I just went through the whole gear swap saga. I would go with Dana or Nitro gears. I’d stay away from Yukon, which unfortunately is what I have. The mesh pattern is very very thin so not a lot of contact between the teeth. This is not a setup issue, but a characteristic of the gear set.

Since you are at a relatively low elevation and moderately flat location, 4.88 gears will work and work well. However, I will tell you unless you are going to be driving 80+ MPH, 5.13’s might be a better option. At 80 with 5.13’s and 37 Nitto RG, I’m spinning 2,600 RPM. In Colorado now, I wish I had gone 5.38’s.

At a minimum, give Al at Colorado Axle and Gear a call. He actually just corrected a bad gear job on mine.

If at all possible, I’d recommend making the drive and having CO Axle and Gear do your gears. They will have them done in a day, are very reasonable on costs, and give you a warranty.

Curious, why are you changing the ball joints?
 
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RaiderGladiator
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I just went through the whole gear swap saga. I would go with Dana or Nitro gears. I’d stay away from Yukon, which unfortunately is what I have. The mesh pattern is very very thin so not a lot of contact between the teeth. This is not a setup issue, but a characteristic of the gear set.

Since you are at a relatively low elevation and moderately flat location, 4.88 gears will work and work well. However, I will tell you unless you are going to be driving 80+ MPH, 5.13’s might be a better option. At 80 with 5.13’s and 37 Nitto RG, I’m spinning 2,600 RPM. In Colorado now, I wish I had gone 5.38’s.

At a minimum, give Al at Colorado Axle and Gear a call. He actually just corrected a bad gear job on mine.

If at all possible, I’d recommend making the drive and having CO Axle and Gear do your gears. They will have them done in a day, are very reasonable on costs, and give you a warranty.

Curious, why are you changing the ball joints?
thank you very much for your detailed response. I really do not drive on the interstate that often. I would say less than 5 days out of the month I am going over 75mph.

I appreciate the advice on going with the 4.88s and the brand recommendations. That helps tremendously. I am going to lean towards nitro as I see great reviews. I’m not quite sure I could drive the 9+ hours to do the gears.. I may call him and pick his brain. Thank you.

Currently my Gladiator has 40k miles on it. All while traveling mostly highways miles with 33” open country r/t’s. The previous owner drove a lot and I am curious if the ball joints have had wear and tear over the miles with the larger tires. I do here a clank, when driving, mostly when I put in drive and slowly accelerate, or driving at 1-25 mphs. My thought was before I put the larger tires on, we at least inspect the ball joints and see if that is a needed replacement. At 40k miles I am also considering new breaks as mine are likely approaching replacement.

sorry for the long winded post. Appreciate your engagement WK2JT.
 

JerseyMike

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revolution gears are another option

ratio depends on transmission, with MT then you want to go at least 4.88 and maybe 5.13, with auto you can probably get away with 4.56 or 4.88 depending on preference
 

hjdca

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I just went through the whole gear swap saga. I would go with Dana or Nitro gears. I’d stay away from Yukon, which unfortunately is what I have. The mesh pattern is very very thin so not a lot of contact between the teeth. This is not a setup issue, but a characteristic of the gear set.

Since you are at a relatively low elevation and moderately flat location, 4.88 gears will work and work well. However, I will tell you unless you are going to be driving 80+ MPH, 5.13’s might be a better option. At 80 with 5.13’s and 37 Nitto RG, I’m spinning 2,600 RPM. In Colorado now, I wish I had gone 5.38’s.

At a minimum, give Al at Colorado Axle and Gear a call. He actually just corrected a bad gear job on mine.

If at all possible, I’d recommend making the drive and having CO Axle and Gear do your gears. They will have them done in a day, are very reasonable on costs, and give you a warranty.

Curious, why are you changing the ball joints?
I would also like to thank-you for this information. For the manual transmission, 6th gear is .72 vs. 8th gear for the auto .67. I think .72 vs. .67 should give you another 100-150 rpm or so.... So, a manual transmission with 5:13s and 37s should be around 2750 or so rpm at 80. I am also trying to decide between 4:88s and 5:13s with 37s with my manual JTR. I live in a hilly/mountainous area at approx. 2K feet. I am always in 4WL when I am wheeling.
 

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