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WILDHOBO

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I stretched mine out and measured for you. The ground and module wire are both 3’ long and 14 gauge. The switch wire is 10’ and 20 gauge.

I would carefully look over all the water seal connections and even the silicone seal on the control box lid. I had to fix to of the connections and I’ll be redoing the control box silicone. As shipped to me, it’s not good enough and water would get in for sure.

IMG_2358.jpeg
The way I installed mine, I can still access the control box relatively easily. I might just get some large shrink tube and shrink the whole box. My connections looked fine, but I’ll add some dielectric grease. Thanks for the heads up.
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Maximus Gladius

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So you all know that neat little “control box” with this kit that’s screwed in somewhere under the hood and in my last post above I mentioned I didn’t like the silicone seal on it lid, well curious George reared its ugly head and just had to take the lid off to see whatever it is I would see and can someone tell me what is the point of this box from the photos?

Jeep Gladiator Kill switch install from 41.22 IMG_2360


Jeep Gladiator Kill switch install from 41.22 IMG_2361


Jeep Gladiator Kill switch install from 41.22 IMG_2362
 

WILDHOBO

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So you all know that neat little “control box” with this kit that’s screwed in somewhere under the hood and in my last post above I mentioned I didn’t like the silicone seal on it lid, well curious George reared its ugly head and just had to take the lid off to see whatever it is I would see and can someone tell me what is the point of this box from the photos?

IMG_2360.jpeg


IMG_2361.jpeg
That’s hilarious. I might just cut it out. I certainly wouldn’t be very worried about the lid seal. It’s just a service loop of wire. Funny stuff.
 

abe57

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I stretched mine out and measured for you. The ground and module wire are both 3’ long and 14 gauge. The switch wire is 10’ and 20 gauge.

I would carefully look over all the water seal connections and even the silicone seal on the control box lid. I had to fix to of the connections and I’ll be redoing the control box silicone. As shipped to me, it’s not good enough and water would get in for sure.

IMG_2358.jpeg
TY !!
 

KevinC

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That’s hilarious. I might just cut it out. I certainly wouldn’t be very worried about the lid seal. It’s just a service loop of wire. Funny stuff.
I bet the box is half the cost of all the other materials. Not sure "you get what you pay for" applies here.
 

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abe57

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Seems like the box is more for seeing the sellers logo and for nothing else . Removing the box would make it less distinctive for what the wiring is for .
 

Maximus Gladius

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I bet the box is half the cost of all the other materials. Not sure "you get what you pay for" applies here.
Well, in all fairness, you do get a cool sticker and a very nice box it comes in with some squishy packaging foam and a firewall plug.
 

WILDHOBO

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Well, in all fairness, you do get a cool sticker and a very nice box it comes in with some squishy packaging foam and a firewall plug.
The relay is the whole thing. The box was 3d printed I think. When I have time the box is going away. And I agree. The connectors are getting replaced with heat shrink solder connectors.
 

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Well i got mine today I already ran the switch wire with wire I had laying around and ran it though the wire harness plug on the right side . It's really not that hard you just have to remove 4 rivets and one 10mm screw to get the liner out of the way this is the 4th wire I have run to the inside of the cab. Removed the plastic box and wrapped the wires with friction tape to look like the wires around it and made a connection with the male side hard shell on my wire to match. The ground is at the very front factory ground on the fender . To be honest I spent more time looking for the factory relay than I did with the install. I had it set on top of the battery and lost it . Looking for it all over even the work bench then I looked to see with all the wires I have running around the battery that the battery retention bolt could still be accessed and guess what ..there it sits my factory relay ! And for others out there these are truly water proof connectors I have used them on trailers motorcycles and on the Gladiator . Works great and very pleased with the outcome.

Jeep Gladiator Kill switch install from 41.22 20240411_150209


Jeep Gladiator Kill switch install from 41.22 20240411_161250
 

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This seems like quite a lot for a kill switch! You can just wire up a switch to your start button, only takes a few minutes and just hide the switch in your vehicle. In the end, these are all just deterrents. If someone really wants your vehicle... they'll just flat bed it.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Now I'm curious - why this and not a truly remote control relay? It looks identical to an original (save for the MOPAR part number), has no wires so any thief won't figure it out easily, no wires to run.
 

ShadowsPapa

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This seems like quite a lot for a kill switch! You can just wire up a switch to your start button, only takes a few minutes and just hide the switch in your vehicle. In the end, these are all just deterrents. If someone really wants your vehicle... they'll just flat bed it.
I wonder why wire a relay that will look so obvious instead of using a truly remote controlled relay?
They are truly plug and play. Pull PDC cover, pull original relay, plug in the remote relay, put PDC cover back on, done.
Roughly $100
 
 







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