Leaking axle seal?

[ShadowsPapa]

But if they’ve machined them all this way, shouldn’t they all leak?

One would think so - however, do we have a stack-up of tolerances here? A case where over time that race/cup was allowed to turn just enough that it very gradually wore and worked deeper into the tube.......... that could be caused by any one or any combination of things that hold it secure.
Tolerances on the retainer or the ring between retainer and seal? Tolerances of the seal? Of the bearing and cup, of the housing? If each was in spec, but on the "loose side", you have a loose assembly.
You can have a crankshaft crankpin in spec, a bearing in spec, rod in spec, and end up with a rod that has too much clearance on the crankshaft (too much for me, anyway)
It's why no matter what, I check final assembly of parts and don't just put it together because each part measures in spec.

I rebuilt a differential 3 or 4 years ago. When I got the carrier out I realized that the cup for the right side carrier bearing had been turning in the casting, under the cap. It scored the shim that was against it, holding preload on the bearings, slight burnishing of the recess where the cup sat and the cap that held it in place. I caught it before it did any more than score up a shim. Why did it start to turn to begin with with all of that pressure on it? The differential was quiet - not an odd noise out of it at all.

This is an odd one for sure - I wish people that had this sort of thing, or that found leaking axles, was close by. I'd make room in my shop and leave no stone unturned to find the original issue if at all possible. I'm a nut for "why did something fail" and love forensics, fine detail work.

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[Rusty PW]

But if they’ve machined them all this way, shouldn’t they all leak?

You have to remember that these are being machined on more then one CNC. They all might have the same programming. But you will have different tool wear in them. Which changes the dimensions.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You have to remember that these are being machined on more then one CNC. They all might have the same programming. But you will have different tool wear in them. Which changes the dimensions.

That's another point. One machine can have wear, an issue. That reduces the number of problem assemblies down, and it's still possible that if the other parts were on the snug side, even those made on that machine may not be a problem, especially right away.
Sometimes this sort of thing doesn't show up for miles..............

Hey, I bet with your past "employment", you were a bit OCD and a nut for details yourself. Your concentration skills would have to be quite good. (for racing, too.....)

 

[Rusty PW]

That's another point. One machine can have wear, an issue. That reduces the number of problem assemblies down, and it's still possible that if the other parts were on the snug side, even those made on that machine may not be a problem, especially right away.
Sometimes this sort of thing doesn't show up for miles..............

Hey, I bet with your past "employment", you were a bit OCD and a nut for details yourself. Your concentration skills would have to be quite good. (for racing, too.....)

Yea....I'm a bit OCD when it comes to some stuff. Working under the thumb of the Feds over the years make you that way.

 

[tumbes2000]

Was putting on my lift on my 2020 Mojave and noticed discoloration on the driver side knuckle. It felt like oil at the touch. Luckily had appointment for oil change a couple of days later (today). Dealer said it was a failed seal and replaced it under warranty the same day. I am almost out of the 36k warranty so a bit worried now.

 

[NachoRuby]

Was putting on my lift on my 2020 Mojave and noticed discoloration on the driver side knuckle. It felt like oil at the touch. Luckily had appointment for oil change a couple of days later (today). Dealer said it was a failed seal and replaced it under warranty the same day. I am almost out of the 36k warranty so a bit worried now.

That would be part of the 60k power train warranty, though. Axles are drivetrain. Just had the same thing done under powertrain warranty on our JKU, that's well past 36k bumper to bumper.

Most of the stuff you really have to worry about (other than the alternator) falls under powertrain. It's just the electronic gremlins and non-propulsion related suspension stuff (shocks, springs, brakes, etc) that you have to worry about after 36k, until you hit 60k, or get an extended powertrain warranty.

 

[staying_tuned]

Got a call from service, they are replacing rear pads/rotors and the "axle shaft". Not sure if he was being intentionally general but I didn't have time to query further as I had work on the other ear and didn't want to miss their call so I picked up while on the other. Service availability wont make our trip we've got in less than two weeks so I pushed it all out until first week of July. Glad everything is in stock etc., said it would take a day but has me setup for a loaner. Fingers crossed.

 

[GRcrawler]

So what is the at home fix. I'm not interested in bringing it to a dealer. So does anyone know the part number for the axle seal? It looks like Mopar is only selling the entire axle shaft with seal on it.

https://www.moparfactoryparts.com/v...differential-and-drive-line--rear-axle-shafts

 

[Awhitebuff]

A few weeks ago I found my right rear axle leaking. I have a 2021 Overland Diesel with LSD. At the time this forum was posting an axle leak hold because supposedly a new fix was coming in June. Also when I brought it to the dealer they said the same thing. Just drive it until they have the new engineering in june. So I get a call last week that the part is in and we schedule to have it replaced on May 24th. The part number of the axle shaft they installed is 68471168AA. Now I've seen people post this part number back in March as their replacement axle. So I assume it is not a new "fix" we were waiting for in June. I wonder why They told me to wait for the new axle and then decide to give me an existing axle. Guess I'll just have to keep watching for the next inevitable leak. Jeep is not inspiring confidence. Yes I understand things go wrong and supply chain issues and all that. I just get the neck hairs standing up when seemingly shady things with lack of communications take place. Just ranting I guess.

 

[Jeeppop72]

A few weeks ago I found my right rear axle leaking. I have a 2021 Overland Diesel with LSD. At the time this forum was posting an axle leak hold because supposedly a new fix was coming in June. Also when I brought it to the dealer they said the same thing. Just drive it until they have the new engineering in june. So I get a call last week that the part is in and we schedule to have it replaced on May 24th. The part number of the axle shaft they installed is 68471168AA. Now I've seen people post this part number back in March as their replacement axle. So I assume it is not a new "fix" we were waiting for in June. I wonder why They told me to wait for the new axle and then decide to give me an existing axle. Guess I'll just have to keep watching for the next inevitable leak. Jeep is not inspiring confidence. Yes I understand things go wrong and supply chain issues and all that. I just get the neck hairs standing up when seemingly shady things with lack of communications take place. Just ranting I guess.

Part number on my replacement was "68471168AA SHAFT-AXLE REAR" which was replace on 2/11/22 and about 4600 miles ago. So far, no further leaks.

Side note: I currently have a "rotational" grinding or rubbing sound when coasting that sounds like it is coming from the right rear possibly. Cannot hear on acceleration. Going to get it checked out soon. The sound seems to be associated with speed as it gets slower as you slow down. Unfortunately, I have also developed a leak from the front of the diff where the driveshaft enters.

All of this after adding a 2.5 RC leveling kit and 315/70's... don't think that this is related though.


EDIT: Noise I was hearing was from too shallow of lug nuts apparently that were bottomed out and letting the wheel move around. Dealer installed longer spline drives and no noise... I was told that the Gladiators have longer studs on the wheels and require a deeper lug nut. News to me. Just FYI in case anyone else comes across this type of noise. BTW the wheels are Black Rhino's.

 

[Awhitebuff]

Part number on my replacement was "68471168AA SHAFT-AXLE REAR" which was replace on 2/11/22 and about 4600 miles ago. So far, no further leaks.

So it seems to me that they did not install the new "June" revised axle as they said they would. I guess I'll just have to wait like everyone else to see if it leaks again.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

So it seems to me that they did not install the new "June" revised axle as they said they would. I guess I'll just have to wait like everyone else to see if it leaks again.

I have a feeling it's not out yet. I've been trying to remember to now and then search and see if I can see anything new (I don't have a leak but am endlessly curious) and so far, no signs of anything different.

 

[bd100]

Also a slow leak at low miles. I'll wait out the month and see if this new solution is available before doing much about it, but no cross-country trips allowed yet!

 

[Armylemons]

On my second replacement axle, installed last week of April.
Full week in Moab completed and no further leaks yet. Fingers crossed it’s done

 

[Chance575]

So what is the at home fix. I'm not interested in bringing it to a dealer. So does anyone know the part number for the axle seal? It looks like Mopar is only selling the entire axle shaft with seal on it.

https://www.moparfactoryparts.com/v...differential-and-drive-line--rear-axle-shafts

you can look at my previous post and there are no replacement seals that I could find. I posted replacement bearing numbers but ended up buying a new shaft and rtv it in.

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