AZ_Adventure_Clicks
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Thanks to all who helped me out with the questions I had as I swapped my bad motor for a new long block from Powertrain Products LLC.
I thought maybe this post could help someone else in the future, so here's a few things that I did that helped and things I wish I knew before I started.
New parts needed:
Moparwholesaleparts.com has the best prices and an eBay store- fortunately, they're at a local dealer here in Phoenix so I saved on shipping.
Tips-
The load leveler on Amazon works fine for pulling the motor. You don't need special brackets. BIG RED AT32100BR Torin Engine Hoist Shop Crane Accessory: Steel 3 Position Engine Leveler with Adjustable Handle, 3/4 Ton (1,500 lb) Capacity, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BKZPLZCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_VQ6uMo5ZmVkLC
Thanks Minty for this one- wish I knew before! To get to the bolts in the back of the motor (which are a BISH!!!!), raise the motor part way and remove the mounts. Then lower the motor/trans together. You can get a lot of access this way. Do the same when reinstalling.
Careful if you flip the motor to put the oil pan on- it's *extremely* top heavy.
Get some allthread about 5" long x 2, and thread one on each side of the trans to give you extended motor guides to help you line up the motor when installing.
Make sure you line up the torque converter holes to the flexplate holes as you put the motor in. If you don't, you'll regret it. Ask me how I know.
I couldn't find a tool to build oil pressure before first start, so I used the starter.
Before installing, I filled the crankcase and jumped the starter to turn the oil pump.
After installing, I cranked it over with my foot to the floor for a bit before letting it start on its own.
I used AlfaOBD to check codes and run crank relearn, but nothing else was needed like PCM or ECU programming.
I thought maybe this post could help someone else in the future, so here's a few things that I did that helped and things I wish I knew before I started.
New parts needed:
- Water pump (& gasket),
- Thermostat,
- Mopar 3 bond (probably no different than permatex),
- Oil pick up O ring,
- Valve cover gaskets,
- Intake manifold and plenum gaskets ,(12 total)... They make you get a new upper plenum if you had a "catastrophic engine failure" before,
- New bolts for flexplate to crank (6),
- Technically, supposed to get new ones for the flexplate to TC but I just used blue loctite.
- EGR cooler gasket (had a serious case of f this at that point so reused mine with a little RTV)
- Radiator hoses
- Crankshaft oil seal Chrysler Genuine 68079589AA Crankshaft Oil Seal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NNF1XI/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_pe5B9NVSiMifV
- Timing cover seal kit
Moparwholesaleparts.com has the best prices and an eBay store- fortunately, they're at a local dealer here in Phoenix so I saved on shipping.
Tips-
- Take photos of EVERYTHING, especially hose and wire routing. I didn't and had a bit of trouble with re rerouting stuff.
- Get some reverse torx sockets. The AC compressor and oil cooler use them. SEDY 14-Piece E-TORX Socket Set - Premium Female Torx Socket Set, Ultimate Star Socket Set, Torque Socket Set, External Torx Socket Set, E4 E5 E6 E7 E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DF4PRZF/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_DSKKzj6o4urF5
- Clean the electrical connectors before trying to disconnect them. They get stuck and break easily. If you break them, sometimes you can "fix" it with a zip tie thru the clip. You can get a tool for these that helps remove them on Amazon. Electrical Disconnect Pliers 37960, Electrical Connector Separator 13120, Automotive Electrical Connector Pliers, Electrical Tools, Electrical Plug Pl https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DCGDY3MY/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_vKJMtNj69STZv
- The fuel and vapor line clips will probably break. You can get new clips on Amazon. Fuel Line Clips, Auto Clips Replacement Kit, Transmission Line Clips, Fuel Line Retaining Clip Box, Refrigerant Line Clip, 3/8 & 5/16 Fuel Line Retain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNCPCPT8/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_hNeoEKCNkaH7T
- Try really hard not to break the fir tree clips because you really can't find them anywhere unless you buy $5000 worth.
- I bought the month subscription from Mitchell DIY manual and it was worth every penny. I printed out the instructions bc paper was easier to reference on the fly. https://diy.eautorepair.net/
- The motor came with plugs, but weren't the ones for the gladiator so I had to get those also. We need champion 9147
The load leveler on Amazon works fine for pulling the motor. You don't need special brackets. BIG RED AT32100BR Torin Engine Hoist Shop Crane Accessory: Steel 3 Position Engine Leveler with Adjustable Handle, 3/4 Ton (1,500 lb) Capacity, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BKZPLZCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_VQ6uMo5ZmVkLC
Thanks Minty for this one- wish I knew before! To get to the bolts in the back of the motor (which are a BISH!!!!), raise the motor part way and remove the mounts. Then lower the motor/trans together. You can get a lot of access this way. Do the same when reinstalling.
Careful if you flip the motor to put the oil pan on- it's *extremely* top heavy.
Get some allthread about 5" long x 2, and thread one on each side of the trans to give you extended motor guides to help you line up the motor when installing.
Make sure you line up the torque converter holes to the flexplate holes as you put the motor in. If you don't, you'll regret it. Ask me how I know.
I couldn't find a tool to build oil pressure before first start, so I used the starter.
Before installing, I filled the crankcase and jumped the starter to turn the oil pump.
After installing, I cranked it over with my foot to the floor for a bit before letting it start on its own.
I used AlfaOBD to check codes and run crank relearn, but nothing else was needed like PCM or ECU programming.
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