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Lift installed. Tire is all jacked. Help.

MSFTMatt

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Just buttoned up the install on my Clayton Overland Plus 2.5” with a 3/4 front spacer. It has the HD springs in rear for future weight. Admittedly I got myself in a pickle my removing front track bar and both LCA’.s. I fixed all that to Clayton’s measurements by doing a lot of raising/lowering and looking. Got wheels back on and I see this. Spun around the block and it’s all over the place. I did need to extend the front track bar past the recommendations to get the holes to line up. Any help woukd be greatly appreciated.

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MSFTMatt

MSFTMatt

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And before I drove it was passenger front tire, when back it was driver. Hard to tell in pic but it’s kinda pigeon toed and bottom of tire leans in while too leans out.
 

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Did the spacer come with the lift? The way you worded it, it sounds like it was something you added? you've got over 3 inches of lift in the front now. You're going to need to take out that extra spacer or get an extended/adjustable trac bar. AND an alignment

Did the clayton's measurements account for an extra 3/4" ?
 
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MSFTMatt

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No they did not account for that. But the Clayton track bar is adjustable. I know a lot of folks on here have thrown a 3/4” spacer up front to reduce rake. I seem to have it all jacked up tho.
 

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The track bar measurements that Clayton gave you are ball park measurements. They should get you close. But you still have to fine tune it. It may take several tries to get the tires equal on both sides.
 

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MSFTMatt

MSFTMatt

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They definitely got me close but not close enough. If it’s my track bar making my wheels all caddywompus I’ll research what I need to do to fix it. Long time listener, first time caller to Jeeps and straight axle trucks.
 
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MSFTMatt

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So I did adjust to try and get my steering wheel more centered and I just saw that will change my toe so adjust that back out after doing rear then front measurements will fix that part.
 

Rusty PW

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I see that you still have the stock wheels and tires on it. So your tires don't stick out past the fenders.
The way I did mine. I used a 6ft level, and tape measure. Make sure the wheels are straight ahead. I put the level up against the tire. Straight up and down, in the center of the tire. Then measure the distance from the level to the tire (top of the tire) on each side of the JT. See how much the difference is. Half of that difference is what you need to adjust the track bar. That should get you within a thread or 2. Making the track bar shorter will move the body to the left of the axle. Making the track bar longer will move the body to the right of axle.
 
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MSFTMatt

MSFTMatt

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Awesome, thank you! I’ve got wheels/tires at the shop waiting but there’s no way I’m driving 30 min with it feeling the way it does right now. I’m nervous enough doing my first install!
 

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I used the Rubicon Express solid Forged track bar for a 0"-6" lift it came with a short sleeve for JL wranglers and a ling sleeve for JT Gladiators. I was easily able to adjust it . As stated above I used a tape measure and adjusted so the tire was the same distance from the hole in the top of the spring mount. My rear didn't need adjusting but if you went above 2.5" With that spacer then your track bar is the answer. The rear if it is off it is because the HD springs are giving you more than 2.5" in the rear also and you will need to get a different track bar for the rear also and adjust it also. A rear track bar relocation bracket may work but a new longer adjustable track bar for the rear would be a good option. Best of luck.
 

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***UPDATE*** With the help from you folks on the forum I got it drivable without scaring the living crap out of me and got it to alignment shop. Here are the results. Now I like my lift😂

Jeep Gladiator Lift installed. Tire is all jacked. Help. IMG_0981
Excellent work. Now you know your Jeep so much better.
 

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So I did adjust to try and get my steering wheel more centered and I just saw that will change my toe so adjust that back out after doing rear then front measurements will fix that part.
You probably found out already, centering the axle and centering the steering wheel has no impact on toe. Looks like the toe was off a fair amount before you started. In this case, alignment did well for you.
 

kevman65

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Glad you got it worked out.

Now, you made it harder on yourself by messing with the track bar length. Set it to manufacturer's spec, with the tires on the ground, install frame side first. If needed have someone turn the steering wheel to help you get axle side bolt in. If unable, ratchet strap from frame side connection to somewhere on the axle side (OUT OF THE WAY OF YOUR WORK) and tighten the strap until holes line up.

Again, do this with the weight of the JT on the tires on the ground.

Once everything is tightened up, you can take measurements on each side to see if axle is centered. Small adjustments are to be expected. But don't get anal because the measurement will constantly change as you drive and wheel.
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