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Lift or 35’s on Rubicon

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What would be more beneficial for clearance, 2-3 in lift or 35’s. Which one would give the most lift to keep from hitting frame & bumpers. Currently have stock 285/70/17. What I see here 35’s will be ok without lift. Not Wanting to do both at this time. Will be in Sedona and Moab next month looking do easy to moderate trails.

Jeep Gladiator Lift or 35’s on Rubicon 8244842734133221533
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We install lift to clear tires. We install tires to clear obstacles.

I have 35's under mine with the only lift being a leveling spacer up front to get rid of the rake. Be advised that I do have minor rubbing at full lock when hitting bumps.

Jeep Gladiator Lift or 35’s on Rubicon IMG_3506
 

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What would be more beneficial for clearance, 2-3 in lift or 35’s. Which one would give the most lift to keep from hitting frame & bumpers.
I'm assuming you mean frame and bumper clearance from hitting obstacles on the trail?

Lift will provide obstacle frame and bumper clearance. Nothing more really.
Tires will provide obstacle axle clearance, larger diameter makes rolling over obstacles a little better, and you'll get some bumper/frame clearance.

To be honest, your Rubicon doesn't need either to do moderate trails out there. I'd wait until you can do both suspension and tires at the same time. If you do just 35's then you'll potentially run into suspension travel issues, and depending on the wheel offset you'll have rubbing issues. If you do just a lift, then you'll look like you skipped leg day while running 33's.
 

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The Rubicon is designed to handle 35s with no lift, as it and the Mojave both have high-clearance fenders that sit higher than on the other models. A 35 inch tire will raise your differentials (the lowest point under the vehicle that often hits obstacles) by 1 inch over stock. I ran 35 x 12.50 x 17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers for 30,000 miles on the stock rims with zero rubbing even during fairly technical off-roading. Not one problem ever.
 
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We install lift to clear tires. We install tires to clear obstacles.

That does make sense. Just thought a lift might give more clearance than the 35’s.

Thanks for your reply.
 

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We install lift to clear tires. We install tires to clear obstacles.

That does make sense. Just thought a lift might give more clearance than the 35’s.

Thanks for your reply.
They aren't wrong when saying we install a lift to clear tires, but it's also misleading when it comes to application on the trail. What will provide more clearance depends on the situation, and almost any situation can be overcome with the proper line without a lift or larger tires (until we get into difficult trails specifically meant for modified rigs)

If I HAD to choose one or the other, I'd probably do the lift first. Sure, 35's will fit and you'll be able to wheel with them, but they are giving you minimal OBSTACLE clearance where it matters.

Our trucks with the longer wheelbase have poor breakover and departure clearance. You can avoid rocks hitting axles and differentials by adjusting your line, and often enough the right line is actually tire ON the obstacle which provides you even more axle clearance, but it's harder to avoid dragging the frame on steep breakover, dragging bumper on a steep departure or coming off an obstacle and hitting your frame or skids on the rock you just came off of.

I had a Cherokee with me my last run through Utah. It had 32's and a 2inch lift, and in regards to tire size and axle (or in this case, control arm) clearance it did fine everywhere we went. Not once did he hit control arms or diffs on obstacles. The things it struggled with was getting hung up on the frame and rear bumper. The low frame and bumper height caused him to hit quite often. Granted that's a different chassis with independent suspension, but the concept is the same. It's easier to avoid hitting axles and diffs, but dragging frame or bumper is sometimes unavoidable.

Your Gladi has more clearance in stock form than his Cherokee had lifted, which is why I say a Rubicon should be fine for a lot of places. You might have to take a different line for some things, but overall it should be ok. The Rubicon was designed and built to be able to tackle the Rubicon trail in stock form.
 

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The JT is long with a long rear overhang. Breakover and departure angles need the most help. It's not a 2dr JL where you want as little lift as possible to clear the tires without making it to tall and tippy. For your example specifically, the 2-3" lift is going to provide far more clearance for the frame and bumpers than the tires. 35s will only add 1" of clearance everywhere. They have the advantage of also providing clearance for the axles and diffs that the lift won't, but as you stated, dragging the frame and bumper is much more of an issue in the JT. Personally I did both 37s and the 2" spacer lift at the same time adding substantial clearance everywhere. Found that dragging the belly and rear bumpers was still common in harder obstacles so I swapped the spacers out for 3.5" metalcloak springs. The clearance is much better now.
 
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If I HAD to choose one or the other, I'd probably do the lift first. Sure, 35's will fit and you'll be able to wheel with them, but they are giving you minimal OBSTACLE clearance where it matters.

Thanks for your reply


For your example specifically, the 2-3" lift is going to provide far more clearance for the frame and bumpers than the tires. 35s will only add 1" of clearance everywhere.

Thanks for your reply
 

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I agree with most of the advice given here. I recently did both 35's and a Clayton 2.5" Overland+ lift (which measures out to a bit over 3"). I did the lift first, then a few days later I had the wheels/tires done. What I can tell you is that the lift with stock tires looks a little silly. There was nothing functionally wrong with it other than clearance for the brake cable and speed sensor cable for the ABS and some very tight clearance with the remote reservoir on the shocks I chose, but it just looked a little silly with the 33s. Here are a couple of pics with lift and lift with 35s. The bed of the truck has a fair bit of weight in it in both picks so maybe a little sag in the back in both pics.

Lift with stock 33" MTs (all the old suspension parts in the bed of the truck)
Jeep Gladiator Lift or 35’s on Rubicon Lift-33s


Lift with Method 705s and 35" Baja Boss ATs (old wheels and tires in the bed of the truck)
Jeep Gladiator Lift or 35’s on Rubicon Lift-35s


Incidently, I will be in Moab next month as well. Say high if you see me!
 

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I'm assuming you mean frame and bumper clearance from hitting obstacles on the trail?

Lift will provide obstacle frame and bumper clearance. Nothing more really.
Tires will provide obstacle axle clearance, larger diameter makes rolling over obstacles a little better, and you'll get some bumper/frame clearance.

To be honest, your Rubicon doesn't need either to do moderate trails out there. I'd wait until you can do both suspension and tires at the same time. If you do just 35's then you'll potentially run into suspension travel issues, and depending on the wheel offset you'll have rubbing issues. If you do just a lift, then you'll look like you skipped leg day while running 33's.
What would be more beneficial for clearance, 2-3 in lift or 35’s. Which one would give the most lift to keep from hitting frame & bumpers. Currently have stock 285/70/17. What I see here 35’s will be ok without lift. Not Wanting to do both at this time. Will be in Sedona and Moab next month looking do easy to moderate trails.

8244842734133221533.webp
I have a 23 Rubicon Gladiator, they come from factory already an inch or so higher than most models. I did add another two inches but still on the stock Falcon LT285 AT tires which measure about 33" and it does not look bad at all. When I wear em out I plan to go to 35's. Note that from what I have read and been told 35" is the largest spare you can get under the rear and then you have to find alternate mounting options if you go larger.
As JT and others have said, it is more about your ability than gear how well you do off road. He gave some very good advice about your actual line of travel than how tall your tires are or lift.
I grew up in 4x4's from small rangers, small Bronco's, Scouts, post F250's, F350 Super Crew Cab, you name it and all of them went off road a lot. All of them could go most places most Jeeps go even the crew cab.
Currently my Rubicon goes everywhere other Jeeps go with much higher clearance and tires.
Unless you plan to do extreme off road or rock crawling what you have now will work in most situations.
I would do lift first and depending on experience off road do some easier trail riding with other experienced drivers and watch how they line up their tracks across obstacles.
Generally keep your wheels on the high spots and you should be good.
Accessorize at your own pace, if you are really wanting to get extreme I would buy an older model that you do not care about dents and scratches because that comes with the terrortory, same with fancy wheels because they will take a lot of punishment.
My second accessory after the lift was a winch because I love to off road by myself or with just a partner and it has already paid for itself when I let said partner try her hand at driving on backroads just saying.
Good luck.
Jeep Gladiator Lift or 35’s on Rubicon 20260131_074450
Jeep Gladiator Lift or 35’s on Rubicon 20260117_163557

What would be more beneficial for clearance, 2-3 in lift or 35’s. Which one would give the most lift to keep from hitting frame & bumpers. Currently have stock 285/70/17. What I see here 35’s will be ok without lift. Not Wanting to do both at this time. Will be in Sedona and Moab next month looking do easy to moderate trails.

Jeep Gladiator Lift or 35’s on Rubicon 8244842734133221533
 

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I have a 23 Rubicon Gladiator, they come from factory already an inch or so higher than most models. I did add another two inches but still on the stock Falcon LT285 AT tires which measure about 33" and it does not look bad at all. When I wear em out I plan to go to 35's. Note that from what I have read and been told 35" is the largest spare you can get under the rear and then you have to find alternate mounting options if you go larger.
As JT and others have said, it is more about your ability than gear how well you do off road. He gave some very good advice about your actual line of travel than how tall your tires are or lift.
I grew up in 4x4's from small rangers, small Bronco's, Scouts, post F250's, F350 Super Crew Cab, you name it and all of them went off road a lot. All of them could go most places most Jeeps go even the crew cab.
Currently my Rubicon goes everywhere other Jeeps go with much higher clearance and tires.
Unless you plan to do extreme off road or rock crawling what you have now will work in most situations.
I would do lift first and depending on experience off road do some easier trail riding with other experienced drivers and watch how they line up their tracks across obstacles.
Generally keep your wheels on the high spots and you should be good.
Accessorize at your own pace, if you are really wanting to get extreme I would buy an older model that you do not care about dents and scratches because that comes with the terrortory, same with fancy wheels because they will take a lot of punishment.
My second accessory after the lift was a winch because I love to off road by myself or with just a partner and it has already paid for itself when I let said partner try her hand at driving on backroads just saying.
Good luck.
20260131_074450.webp
20260117_163557.webp
The track bar in the rear can contact larger spares. Several companies sell rear bars with a bend for spare tire clearance. On my mojave I went with the triangulated 4 link in the rear which eliminates the rear track bar altogether. The 37" MT fits no problem.
 

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So I did go with wild peak A/T4W 35-11.5-17 on stock rims.

Out in Cave Creek AZ, first adventure was on four peaks trail that was nice and easy. Today was a lot more challenging on the Bulldog trail 10. After today’s outing liftkit in near future.

Jeep Gladiator Lift or 35’s on Rubicon 6454965859479894935
 
 







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