Lightweight Jeep Gladiator: Why Aluminum Skids Work For For Me (And Artec Industries Aluminum Skids Fitment Problem)

[Berserker]

I minimize the weight I add to my rig to maximize my available payload. I'm not an aggressive crawler (but I used to wheel like a maniac) so I don't need a bulletproof undercarriage. For months I scoured this forum, product pages, and YouTube for insight on which skids are right for me. Ultimately, I decided on the Artec aluminum belly pan skids. The kit weighs 90lbs, but because you replace 80lbs of factory steel skids you only add 10lbs to your Jeep. That's fantastic. I put together a video explaining why I'm adamant about keeping my rig light and how aluminum skids fit into my build.





FYI- According to Artec, because Jeep sourced the exhaust cross-member from several suppliers about 5% of Jeeps will need modification to fit the oil pan/transmission skid. You have to use a torch and clamp to pinch the cross-member so the skid won't contact it. Mine rubbed enough that it wore away part of the skid and emitted horrendous popping noises when the Jeep turned. I don't know how to identify if you'll have this issue.

Worn skid after 8 months of not dealing with it. It contacted almost all the way across so I couldn't ream it out as some do.

Polished exhaust cross-member.

Heat and a clamp to pinch the exhaust for clearance

The result. I might as well have left it unprotected and let it hit rocks. Artec told me, "Since this is something that affects less then [sic] 5% of our bellypan customers and is such a simple fix, it is not something we have made a change for in the skid plate design as we want those brackets and skid to be beefy in that area..."

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[zuki_dan]

I had the same issues with mine. The exhaust crossover was not level on my truck and the passenger side was low.

I started with the torch and hammer and flattened the passenger side for clearance. Then went on a trip to Windrock Park. After I came back the motor mounts had settled more and was rubbing in the middle.

This last weekend my friend and I took the whole front exhaust out and took about 3/4" out of my passenger side down pipe and re fitted it so the pipe is now level under the trans pan. I have almost 2 fingers of clearance between the crossover and engine skid now. No more rattling from the exhaust.

 

[87chief]

i have no experience with their aluminum products, but I've purchase quite a bit of their steel builder parts. trusses and coil mounts and whatnot. Artec's pieces are always topnotch.

 

[49Gramps]

I've had the skid on for seven months now. If I'm stopped, foot on the brake, in gear, damn thing rattles. Had I known of this before hand, I would have said the hell with it and probably opted for Metalcloak.

 

[rickrogan]

For what it's worth: after I wrapped up the Artec install on my 2020 JTR, I had the same issue with clearance as described above. While I contemplated the "head and compress" option (pictured above) I preferred the "cut out ¾" option (as described by @zuki_dan above). But I'm sufficiently self-aware to realize that's beyond my welding ability.

I ended up taking it to a local shop (Mac's Custom Exhaust in Manassas Park, VA). Mac and his team cut out about ⅜", put one end on a pipe expander, got the pieces to fit together for some overlap and end up taking out about ¾" in length. And then they welded it all up.

Fantastic clearance now. Looks great. Done quick. If you're roughly local to N.Va., Mac and his crew are solid and know off-road stuff.

 

[LzyHkr]

For what it's worth: after I wrapped up the Artec install on my 2020 JTR, I had the same issue with clearance as described above. While I contemplated the "head and compress" option (pictured above) I preferred the "cut out ¾" option (as described by @zuki_dan above). But I'm sufficiently self-aware to realize that's beyond my welding ability.

I ended up taking it to a local shop (Mac's Custom Exhaust in Manassas Park, VA). Mac and his team cut out about ⅜", put one end on a pipe expander, got the pieces to fit together for some overlap and end up taking out about ¾" in length. And then they welded it all up.

Fantastic clearance now. Looks great. Done quick. If you're roughly local to N.Va., Mac and his crew are solid and know off-road stuff.

Appreciate you sharing your outcome. I may go this route in the spring. I just took off the oil pan skid for winter because I CANNOT STAND the rattle.

 

[Artec]

We know there are alot of people who have stated the pans need to be addressed for fitment around the exhaust. An I want to let everyone know that we are currently revising our belly pans for better fitment around the exhaust. The Diesel pans are done with the revision, An the 3.6L oil pan skid will be completed very soon which means No more Heat and Pinch the pipe or trimming of the pan to get rid of the at idle rattle some customers have talked about.

 

[Scott L]

Wow glad I didn't order I could not tolerate a rattle like that.

 

[49Gramps]

The shop that installed mine eventually clearanced things fine, so no gripes other than it would have been damn nice to avoid that extra bit of aggravation!

 

[WILDHOBO]

Wow glad I didn't order I could not tolerate a rattle like that.

For what it’s worth, the next venture aluminum belly pan does not have the clearance issue. I’ve had mine on for almost a year and couldn’t be happier.

 

[Geoarch]

I minimize the weight I add to my rig to maximize my available payload. I'm not an aggressive crawler (but I used to wheel like a maniac) so I don't need a bulletproof undercarriage. For months I scoured this forum, product pages, and YouTube for insight on which skids are right for me. Ultimately, I decided on the Artec aluminum belly pan skids. The kit weighs 90lbs, but because you replace 80lbs of factory steel skids you only add 10lbs to your Jeep. That's fantastic. I put together a video explaining why I'm adamant about keeping my rig light and how aluminum skids fit into my build.





FYI- According to Artec, because Jeep sourced the exhaust cross-member from several suppliers about 5% of Jeeps will need modification to fit the oil pan/transmission skid. You have to use a torch and clamp to pinch the cross-member so the skid won't contact it. Mine rubbed enough that it wore away part of the skid and emitted horrendous popping noises when the Jeep turned. I don't know how to identify if you'll have this issue.

Worn skid after 8 months of not dealing with it. It contacted almost all the way across so I couldn't ream it out as some do.

Polished exhaust cross-member.

Heat and a clamp to pinch the exhaust for clearance

The result. I might as well have left it unprotected and let it hit rocks. Artec told me, "Since this is something that affects less then [sic] 5% of our bellypan customers and is such a simple fix, it is not something we have made a change for in the skid plate design as we want those brackets and skid to be beefy in that area..."

I think Quadratec has one too. I have the transmission one and it clears the crossover. Perhaps the one you're using gives more ground clearance. I do rock crawling, and it has been hit a couple times, but survived well. The rest of my skids are OEM.

 

[Berserker]

I had to replace the oil pan/transmission skid plate because I bent it. I released a video update explaining why I went with Artec again.

 

[bd100]

If you bend it again, consider Quadratec's aluminum skids, which add steel cross beams.

 

[Berserker]

If you bend it again, consider Quadratec's aluminum skids, which add steel cross beams.

Thanks! If I bend it again I'll also likely need to replace my transmission pan.

 

[WILDHOBO]

If you bend it again, consider Quadratec's aluminum skids, which add steel cross beams.

Most do. My Next Venture Motorsports aluminum belly skid system also has really solid steel cross members. That doesn’t stop skids from getting bent between them.

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