Sponsored

Liqui Moly and the Pentastar? Opinions?

JP1

Well-Known Member
First Name
John
Joined
Mar 29, 2019
Threads
13
Messages
1,507
Reaction score
2,879
Location
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Vehicle(s)
2024 JLU Rubicon 4xe
Build Thread
Link
So, let the shit-show begin... :LOL:

K, Admitted. I'm kind of a Liqui Moly fan.

I have a case of Super Diesel Additive sitting here from my Colorado ZR2 Diesel, waiting for the 3.0, probably in 2021!!!
I have several cans of Speed Tec left over from the BMW, not sure how good it would be on the lower revving 3.6.

So, what's anyone's opinion on using Liqui Moly stuff in the 3.6?
Jectron? good/bad? every 1k? 2k?
Cera Tec treatment? thinking at 10k?

others?

OK, shit storm begin, and DISCUSS!!! :swear:
THIS one has the potential to turn EPIC!. lol:CWL:
Sponsored

 
Last edited:

DanW

Well-Known Member
First Name
Dan
Joined
Mar 2, 2017
Threads
23
Messages
939
Reaction score
1,104
Location
Brownsburg, Indiana
Vehicle(s)
21 JT Rubi, 18 JLU Rubi, 2008 JKU Rubi, 07 Vette
Liqui Moly is great oil, especially their full synthetic line. As long as it is SN rated, it'll run great in your 3.6. It would handle whatever the oil life monitor says, and then some. Once out of warranty, I think you could go at least 10k and probably more, if you wanted to do that.
 

ShadowsPapa

Well-Known Member
First Name
Bill
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Threads
178
Messages
29,081
Reaction score
34,559
Location
Runnells, Iowa
Vehicle(s)
'22 JTO, '23 JLU, '82 SX4, '73 P. Cardin Javelin
Occupation
Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
Vehicle Showcase
3
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

This is how I choose my oil. I've built my share of engines, never lost one, never lost a high-performance cam. I go by engineers and real-world testing.

Not dissing any of the products mentioned here, know nothing about them, good or bad. Never heard of liqui moly
I run the best oil, highest pressure and temp ratings, and NO additives ever.
 

DanW

Well-Known Member
First Name
Dan
Joined
Mar 2, 2017
Threads
23
Messages
939
Reaction score
1,104
Location
Brownsburg, Indiana
Vehicle(s)
21 JT Rubi, 18 JLU Rubi, 2008 JKU Rubi, 07 Vette
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

This is how I choose my oil. I've built my share of engines, never lost one, never lost a high-performance cam. I go by engineers and real-world testing.

Not dissing any of the products mentioned here, know nothing about them, good or bad. Never heard of liqui moly
I run the best oil, highest pressure and temp ratings, and NO additives ever.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

This is how I choose my oil. I've built my share of engines, never lost one, never lost a high-performance cam. I go by engineers and real-world testing.

Not dissing any of the products mentioned here, know nothing about them, good or bad. Never heard of liqui moly
I run the best oil, highest pressure and temp ratings, and NO additives ever.
Liqui Moly is a German oil and is highly regarded as a premium oil in Europe, but is considered a boutique oil in the US and isn't widely used. I've found it at one Napa store which is attached to a huge Napa distribution center. They also have a couple other European and Japanese premium synthetic brands, too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JP1

ShadowsPapa

Well-Known Member
First Name
Bill
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Threads
178
Messages
29,081
Reaction score
34,559
Location
Runnells, Iowa
Vehicle(s)
'22 JTO, '23 JLU, '82 SX4, '73 P. Cardin Javelin
Occupation
Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
Vehicle Showcase
3
Here is the test ranking from the listings I have used for a while -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The Wear Protection reference categories are:

* Over 120,000 psi = FANTASTIC wear protection

* 105,000 to 120,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection

* 90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection

* 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection

* 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODERATE wear protection

* 50,000 to 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE LOW wear protection

* Below 50,000 psi = CAUTION – EXTREMELY LOW wear protection

The HIGHER the psi value, the BETTER the Wear Protection.


191. 5W40 Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech Oil, synthetic = 69,580 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This oil is made in Germany and is available in the U. S. It comes in 1 Liter bottles which is slightly more than a quart.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Not sure why it's a "boutique" oil here....? Some folks look at the ZDDP and say if' that's high it's great, which is not true and hasn't been since the early 1990s.
Interesting.
 

Sponsored

Gatorized

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Threads
6
Messages
1,663
Reaction score
1,535
Location
ME/NH
Vehicle(s)
‘06 CRV, ‘14 Mazda3, ‘20 JTR (Gator)
Here is the test ranking from the listings I have used for a while -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The Wear Protection reference categories are:

* Over 120,000 psi = FANTASTIC wear protection

* 105,000 to 120,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection

* 90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection

* 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection

* 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODERATE wear protection

* 50,000 to 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE LOW wear protection

* Below 50,000 psi = CAUTION – EXTREMELY LOW wear protection

The HIGHER the psi value, the BETTER the Wear Protection.


191. 5W40 Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech Oil, synthetic = 69,580 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This oil is made in Germany and is available in the U. S. It comes in 1 Liter bottles which is slightly more than a quart.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Not sure why it's a "boutique" oil here....? Some folks look at the ZDDP and say if' that's high it's great, which is not true and hasn't been since the early 1990s.
Interesting.
No need for a boutique oil when you can get outstanding and above rated oils at your local Walmart...
 

ShadowsPapa

Well-Known Member
First Name
Bill
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Threads
178
Messages
29,081
Reaction score
34,559
Location
Runnells, Iowa
Vehicle(s)
'22 JTO, '23 JLU, '82 SX4, '73 P. Cardin Javelin
Occupation
Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
Vehicle Showcase
3
So true. Many of the Mobil 1 and Valvoline (-one example is 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi) oils can be bought at Walmart and rank up in the incredible to fantastic wear protection areas. If one uses an oil that holds 100,000 psi or better you'll be more than fine.

I have run Mobil 1 synthetic in my built 4.0 for years and typically run that, or one of the high ranked Valvoline oils or Renewable Lubricants oils in my other cars, etc..
 
  • Like
Reactions: JP1
OP
OP
JP1

JP1

Well-Known Member
First Name
John
Joined
Mar 29, 2019
Threads
13
Messages
1,507
Reaction score
2,879
Location
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Vehicle(s)
2024 JLU Rubicon 4xe
Build Thread
Link
k, so I wasn't too clear, I was more talking about a couple of the additives.
I out of habit throw a can of Jectron in the tank every couple thousand miles to clean out the corn syrup.

On my 2016 Charger, I ran a can of Pro Line Engine Flush thru and am almost 3k miles in on Valvoline SynTec oil with a can of Cera Tec. This 3.6 is now the smoothest, quietest running thing in history. :rock:

So for the record on oil, I am the same as most of you, Either Mobil-1 or Valvoline SynTec FTW! :like:
 

B345T

Well-Known Member
First Name
Albert
Joined
Aug 6, 2019
Threads
4
Messages
372
Reaction score
254
Location
Grimes, IA
Vehicle(s)
2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon, 2018 Edge Titanium, 2013 Dodge Dart Rallye, 2014 Ford Focus SE Hatchback
Occupation
IT
k, so I wasn't too clear, I was more talking about a couple of the additives.
I out of habit throw a can of Jectron in the tank every couple thousand miles to clean out the corn syrup.
How are you getting corn syrup in your tank?
 
OP
OP
JP1

JP1

Well-Known Member
First Name
John
Joined
Mar 29, 2019
Threads
13
Messages
1,507
Reaction score
2,879
Location
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Vehicle(s)
2024 JLU Rubicon 4xe
Build Thread
Link

Sponsored

ShadowsPapa

Well-Known Member
First Name
Bill
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Threads
178
Messages
29,081
Reaction score
34,559
Location
Runnells, Iowa
Vehicle(s)
'22 JTO, '23 JLU, '82 SX4, '73 P. Cardin Javelin
Occupation
Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
Vehicle Showcase
3
Good question. Not sure how you'd get syrup in the tank.

"jectron" is simply a "fuel injection system" cleaner. Anything that can do what these things purport has to be pretty intense stuff. I've never seen a need other than if there's some funky idle issue or I'm suspect of an injector being a bit sticky or dirty. The cleaners are harsh - they have to be! If you've ever tried to manually clean gasoline varnish off of things, you know even acetone won't touch it and it's considered a universal solvent.

I've only run a couple bottles of "fuel injection cleaner" in my SX4 over the years I've had it and I did that because I was suspect of a slight - VERY slight, uneven idle at times (which turned out to be nothing, really)
I finally changed injectors out last spring. Mine had over 133,000 miles on them. When I got the donor ZJ it had 100,000 miles on it. I rebuilt the 4.0 and put it in my Eagle but put the original injectors back in with only a minor "brushing off".
I wanted a set of the better Bosch 4 hole injectors in my 4.0 and figured since mine were now up over 133,000 miles without any real cleaning or rebuild, time to do something. So I bought a set of injectors, re-plated a fuel rail and some bolts (getting it ready for show season) and set out replacing the injectors and putting a fresh clean fuel rail on.
When I pulled the old injectors - they really were not bad, not dirty. In fact, I was pretty surprised at how clean they were.
I ran the cheap stuff in my tank - Iowa's 10% - which may have led to them being cleaner than expected.
Guess what's in most of the fuel system cleaners and fuel line antifreezes - alcohol. It's one of the best cleaners out there.
 

ShadowsPapa

Well-Known Member
First Name
Bill
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Threads
178
Messages
29,081
Reaction score
34,559
Location
Runnells, Iowa
Vehicle(s)
'22 JTO, '23 JLU, '82 SX4, '73 P. Cardin Javelin
Occupation
Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
Vehicle Showcase
3
Ethanol CLEANS - it leaves no deposits. Been working with the stuff since the early 1980s. Look at what's in most fuel system cleaners or fuel line antifreeze........
It doesn't leave anything behind - in fact it's far far cleaner than straight gas in that respect. It can be tough on certain metals and the old rubber compounds but modern stuff is made to take it. That it leaves "crud" behind is a myth. I've deal with hundreds of vehicles and rebuild many many dozens of carburetors - it's cleaner than straight gas, leave nothing behind, unlike gas - but again, it can be hard on OLDER vehicle fuel system parts unless those have been modified. Modern fuel lines can handle it.
I've run it in EVERYTHING I've owned since the 1980s, tractors, lawn tractors, pickups, cars, injected vehicles, non-injected vehicles, everything.
The only two vehicles I have started moving away from it lately are my SX4 because I've found it may be attacking the fuel tank FILLER hose - which was made for straight gas, and my 73 with the dual quad carbs because after a long hard run, it tends to boil the fuel.

How well does it clean? When I worked in the shop east of Des Moines we had many cars towed in because "we just filled up and now the car loses speed" or "car stalls after last fill" or "car hesitates after last fill". They had bought their first tank of 10% and what happened was that since it's a good CLEANER - all the crap in their fuel system, gas tank, etc. was being dissolved or picked up and moved to the fuel filter or even carburetor!
So we would drain and drop the fuel tank, clean them out good, change fuel filters, rebuild the carburetor with Tomco kits (they had the newer compounds that worked with ethanol) and refilled them - and they were fine. The new carb kits took care of the hesitation because the ethanol swelled the rubber accelerator pump - the Tomco kits had accel pumps that handled ethanol.
There was only a problem because the ethanol CLEANED their tanks from all the crud they had gotten with bad gas over the years, the dirty gas, OR in some cases, gas stations had old dirty underground tanks and the ethanol picked up the filth from the gas station tanks - because ethanol CLEANS very well.
If your fuel system is clean and you have no crud from a station that doesn't maintain their tanks - then there won't be a problem.
 

ThatStinging_Jeep

Well-Known Member
First Name
Dylan
Joined
Oct 15, 2019
Threads
19
Messages
579
Reaction score
431
Location
Mansfield Texas
Vehicle(s)
2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon In Sting Gray
Vehicle Showcase
1
@ShadowsPapa You just dropped the mic and left XD,but yeah Ethanol is very clean and hell it burns cleaner i can say that when me and my dad opened his stroker Big block chevy and wow was the valvetrain and the pistons were super clean compared when it was "stock" running on regular 93 oct pump gas(btw the engine was new) and when we built the stroker with a dart block and did the stroker build we strictly ran e85 not cause of the engines compression it was for the performance and hell e85 is cheaper but you do use more cause of how good and clean it burns(sorry for getting a bit off topic) but ethanol isn't as dirty like gas and it really does not leave anything but yeah :D
 

Incommando

Well-Known Member
First Name
Don
Joined
Jan 31, 2020
Threads
16
Messages
301
Reaction score
271
Location
Kettering, OH
Vehicle(s)
‘20 Sport max tow Sting-gray, ‘95 YJ
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

This is how I choose my oil. I've built my share of engines, never lost one, never lost a high-performance cam. I go by engineers and real-world testing.

Not dissing any of the products mentioned here, know nothing about them, good or bad. Never heard of liqui moly
I run the best oil, highest pressure and temp ratings, and NO additives ever.
So what are you running in your JT?
Sponsored

 
 



Top