ShadowsPapa
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Bill
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2019
- Threads
- 180
- Messages
- 29,512
- Reaction score
- 35,119
- Location
- Runnells, Iowa
- Vehicle(s)
- '22 JTO, '23 JLU, '82 SX4, '73 P. Cardin Javelin
- Occupation
- Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
- Vehicle Showcase
- 3
I get where you are coming from - my thing is I wouldn't suggest "any Jeep owner should do this" -or even can. You get it..... that's evident.Well first of all, if you're a mechanic then you know it's not "some random screw". And yes warranty replacement is definitely the first choice until you're told "that's just the way Jeeps are". Do what you can to get the steering box replaced to fix the problem under warranty. I've owned and worked on lot of Jeeps over the years, and this is my 3rd Rubicon. The excessive play is not normal, it's not a Jeep or a Rubicon thing, and it's a brand new vehicle so you don't have worn out joints and end links to consider as a cause. The cause and solution are well known. With a couple small adjustments to remove 90% of the play, you understand exactly where 100% of the problem is and how easy it is to correct. Personally I understand exactly how it all works, and what issues can arise if you over torque a gear mesh. I've had my share of formal automotive training as well.
You can live with the issue if they won't fix it, or you can fix it 100% and accept the risk yourself. I wouldn't recommend making the adjustment if you're not comfortable working on your own vehicles though.
What happens if you fix it and the worse case scenario happens? You can void your warranty on the steering box because the marker has moved. So you enjoy driving it for several years with perfect steering response, and if you torqued it down way too much you can eventually damage the steering box over time. So then you replace it with a new one out of your pocket. Mopar steering box is a $600 part. In my personal humble opinion, I have broken much more expensive parts in shorter time on my Jeeps and got less enjoyment out of them. The Gladiator drives so nice when this is fixed it's simply worth it to me. Maybe not for you, but it is to me.
Mine has no play - I compared mine to another person's JT steering sector. We both took hold of the steering column shaft as it enters the sector and took note of the movement before the pitman moved.
Mine - ZERO. As quick as I turned the input side, the pitman moved. There was no lag at all.
The other guy's - he was able to get several degrees of turn before his pitman moved. That's ENGINE OFF so you are dealing with the physical, mechanical parts, not how the hydraulics are impacting things.
This is a case of your thinking likely being the issue - possible defect, yes, but that much play, you take out the excess first, if they are cringing, then welcome them to measure the resistance as it's adjusted. They have the spec. Normally you tighten until you have a specific torque reading on the input side.
If you backed it off 1/4 turn - it's hard to imagine it's too tight.
As far as their marking it - LOL - I am the sort that I'd try to duplicate the factory marks - I've spent money duplicating originality in restorations, including such marks on classic cars - inspection marks, factory lock methods, including how the steering sector was finished and the pitman arm nut secured to the shaft. I spent over $60 getting a stamp made for product code and date code stamping on my restorations, as well as inspection marks. I put the original type paint marks back on the drive shaft of cars I've restored. So if I broke a seal, I'd spend hours trying to duplicate it if at all possible. It would bug me being off.
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