Mark another one dead

[jwolfejt]

And as a whole that’s worse for forced induction?
Thank you btw. I know a pretty decent amount about engines, but less about forced induction other than forged internals are good and avoid detonation. Hah.

edit: And I wished I had forced induction when I lived in CO. Hah

Closed deck will always be a better choice for forced induction engines. If you want to go extreme a dry deck is preferable (where the deck's of the block and head are closed off and 2 water pump circuits provide the flow to the deck and another for the head). Open deck is fine for NA applications and even some FI applications. I don't think the pentastar has deck/shortblock related issues (those being reported have been pretty rare). The top end on the other hand seems to have some issues stemming from manufacturing mainly. I can't speak to PCM strategy/tuning

If I could overwrite the chrysler OS, I would feel alot better about things.

Curious if we have any standalone options ?

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[DAVECS1]

No easy stand alone. The body control module and the transmission, radio, dash, fuse block and transfer case all have a source address routine on startup that allow them to sync with each other. If one is the wrong address or missing things go bad fast. If Z-automotive worked with Holley they may be able to construct something as he has the routine figured out to get his module online in the Jeep

 

[@californiajeeping]

What about a piggy back system. Leave the factory sensors in and throw a separate ECU to actually "run" the engine. I assume the BCM only needs limited paramaters from the ECU?

 

[Orange01z28]

Damn it! Does that one work too? I prefer Artic, but still. I'm in NE Texas. Hotter than 3 hells recently. Def getting an Artic sticker.

Saw a post recently where someone said they shed a tear when they saw a Jeep with a top and doors on. I love having both off, but 103 with 55% + humidity... it's damn hot.

I live in Arizona. I think people who have top and doors off right now are nuts

 

[ShadowsPapa]

What about a piggy back system. Leave the factory sensors in and throw a separate ECU to actually "run" the engine. I assume the BCM only needs limited paramaters from the ECU?

From the looks of this line or two from the STAR people at FCA, looks like they must match for every start. There's a security key for each module. When you try to start it, the modules do a handshake and use that as an encryption key of sorts ->

The “Seed request” is a handshake involving PCM, BCM and RF Hub Module security codes. The PCM requests the security code from the BCM and ensures they match to start the vehicle.

So, the code in the BCM must match what the PCM expects, or no start.......

And........
Not from the looks of the logs I've dumped from my JT. Looks like each time I access the BCM, it communicates with the ECU - odometer,

This is from my BCM - looks like maybe it polls the ECU? There's a lot of info that appears to be from the ECU even though I'm in the BCM for all of this -



CAN-C Bussed Inputs 2:
PRND Status: Park
Engine RPM: 0 rpm
Ignition Switch Status: RUN Position
RKE Basic Function Request: No
RKE Complex Function Request: No
Vehicle speed: 0.00 km/h
---------------------------
Plant/Service Tip Start: Temporary Disable: No
Plant/Service Remote Start: Temporary Disable: No
Remote Start Enable Data:
Ignition Status: RUN Position
Remote Start Mode: Off
Off Inhibit: No
RKE Messages Received: No
Any Door Ajar: No
Key in Ignition: Yes
Brake Pressed: No
Hazard Lamps On: No
Remote Start Enabled: Yes
Remote Start Programmed: Yes
Auto Transmission: Yes
Hood Switch Programmed: Yes
Start Counter: 0
Failed Counter: 0

------------------------

Faults reported:
2021/01/08 10:24:31.268
No faults reported by the unit.
___________________________
Tested device: Body Control Module MY2020
___________________
2021/01/08 10:26:35.048

VIN - Current: 1C6HJTFG2LL169064
VIN - Original: 1C6HJTFG2LL169064
ECU serial number:
ECU Part Number: 68338656AD


Hardware number: 68338656AD
Hardware Supplier Identification: Continental
Software Logical Block Supplier Identification: Continental
Active Diagnostic Status Of ECU: Running in Application mode
Gateway: Yes

Vehicle Configuration Programmed Status: Yes
Last Programmed Status: Service

After Market ECM Detected: Default
ECU Qualification:
-------------------

ECUConfig 14:
___________________
Excess Lateral Acceleration Factor: 1.5
Average Last Lateral Acceleration Values: Average 1
Excess Longitudinal Acceleration Factor: 1.5
Average Last Longitudinal Acceleration Values: Average 1
Brake Smoothing Duration: 10
Brake Smoothing Factor: Filter Off
Steering Smoothing Duration: 3
Steering Smoothing Factor: Filter Off
Steering Smoothing Threshold: 150 degrees
Brake Smoothing Threshold: 375 Nm
Maximum Longitudinal Change: 2.0 degrees
Maximum Lateral Change: 2.6 degrees
Acceleration Threshold: 1.5 m/s2
Acceleration Factor: Filter Off
Nose Dive Threshold: 1.5 ms
Nose Dive Factor: Filter Off
CBC Features:
___________________
Tip Start Enabled: Yes
Dual Start Relay System Present: Yes

 

[DAVECS1]

Yeah replacing the engine ECM will require some slick engineering. To be fair I am working on back calculating the throttle coefficients to see if I can just make the system linear. Throttle input will equal throttle output. It is a start.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Not sure how much further I’ll tear it down. Don’t believe I have the right tools for the cam anyways.

 

[DAVECS1]

I am not positive, bit it looks like your intake cam is wiped. How many miles are on it?

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

I am not positive, bit it looks like your intake cam is wiped. How many miles are on it?

12500

 

[DAVECS1]

Is the Grey residue on the brown ring on the back of the cam?

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Is the Grey residue on the brown ring on the back of the cam?

Hard to tell. Lots of oil, so it just mixes in.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I am not positive, bit it looks like your intake cam is wiped. How many miles are on it?

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Yea, I’m no expert but I assumed that was the scoring that folks warn about.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Not sure how much further I’ll tear it down. Don’t believe I have the right tools for the cam anyways.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

In my case, damage won’t matter ?

But at this point I don’t want to create a rat’s nest for the installer.

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