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Mexico vs American pug v6 ?

Hootbro

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Of course it's PUG only! The GEN 1 didn't have VVL. "appears to only affect" - how could it possibly affect any others? Sorry, that's a very unnecessary statement as the two don't share cams or followers or many of the other involved parts.
I am sure the article was not written for the initiated on the subject but the public at large, hence the distinction.
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ShadowsPapa

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I am sure the article was not written for the initiated on the subject but the public at large, hence the distinction.
Excellent point!
 

Stan H

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If they are aware of the problem a class action law suit should be filed and we should all receive a 100000 mile unlimited time on our engines
What about those of us who are past the 100,000 or Those who already replaced the cams and adjusters themselves ?
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Since it's just a TSB, I don't see that you'd get any compensation.
That exactly. It only addresses the parts to use like any other "if this breaks, use these to fix it" TSB.
 

Stan H

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That exactly. It only addresses the parts to use like any other "if this breaks, use these to fix it" TSB.
Its a good thing I aint afraid to turn a wrench and after putting a 129,000 miles on this JT in 4.5 yrs. For mostly work that I dont get offended very easy.
I could sorta see a good point for a lot of people getting bent outta shape
 

Lost1wing

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I believe the problem is with all of the PUG engines. We all drive our Jeeps differently. Some change oil very frequently others not so much. Some start the cold engine and drive away immediately ( no warm up). Some rev their engines to the 3k rpm range frequently. I'm on a 8k to 10k oil change schedule. I warm the engine for a few minutes before driving and rarely rev above 3k rpm. At 65,000 miles, I've not had any misfires. I last checked a year ago before the 60,000 mile mark.

I'm not blaming the problem on the owners maintenance or driving habits. I think it is a design defect more the a manufacturing defect. I think the cam rocker TSB is more of a kick the can fix. We know that Stellantis does not care about those out of warranty, but they should. I'm not sure what I would do if I developed the tick. I would definitely fix the tick but I am not sure if I would keep it after the repair.

Well, at least I didn't get the 3.0 ecodiesel and worrying about the CP4 pump. Wait a minute, I have that CP4 in my Duramax!
 

ShadowsPapa

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I start and go.
I, as have others without the problem, have run our oil above 5,000 miles, some actually follow the oil life monitor without any issues at all.

I believe it still is a manufacturing quality issue - I've seen this with cams and lifters over the years, especially replacement parts. Some have high failure rates with a certain brand of cam and lifters while others use them without fail. They are right at the edge of being "ok" - meaning the parts will last fine under some conditions, not under others. It's a manufacturing issue as they should hold up under all "normal" conditions, but don't.
If they are in specs, but barely - right at the edge, maybe a few cross that line, it would explain a lot. Some of us get those just in specs while others get those just out of specs.

How often the oil is changed appears to have no impact at all. Those who take the change intervals out longer don't have any more problems than those who change at 3 to 5K miles.

knowing how these work, I'm of the mind that you should not try to keep the rpm down. It's more likely to kick into high lift mode to get the power needed. Let the damned thing work and if it means driving for half a mile at 4,000 RPM while towing - LET IT. Those keeping the RPM down in the low 2s artificially by manually shifting to control the RPM aren't doing it any favors.
Let it work as designed.
 

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Stan H

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I start and go.
I, as have others without the problem, have run our oil above 5,000 miles, some actually follow the oil life monitor without any issues at all.

I believe it still is a manufacturing quality issue - I've seen this with cams and lifters over the years, especially replacement parts. Some have high failure rates with a certain brand of cam and lifters while others use them without fail. They are right at the edge of being "ok" - meaning the parts will last fine under some conditions, not under others. It's a manufacturing issue as they should hold up under all "normal" conditions, but don't.
If they are in specs, but barely - right at the edge, maybe a few cross that line, it would explain a lot. Some of us get those just in specs while others get those just out of specs.

How often the oil is changed appears to have no impact at all. Those who take the change intervals out longer don't have any more problems than those who change at 3 to 5K miles.

knowing how these work, I'm of the mind that you should not try to keep the rpm down. It's more likely to kick into high lift mode to get the power needed. Let the damned thing work and if it means driving for half a mile at 4,000 RPM while towing - LET IT. Those keeping the RPM down in the low 2s artificially by manually shifting to control the RPM aren't doing it any favors.
Let it work as designed.
I run mine harder than probably most. I am always always over 3k every single day . Except Saturday when Im off 😉
I digress. I figure hey it says red line is 6500 so whats 3k-4k gonna do.. probably nothing . So far I been right.
I think I stated before that everyday I have to go through first 4 gears revving to 4k just to get up to highway speed on this really steep pull on the highway. So my Jeep has no option 🙃.
I do use the minder
Im right this instant at 4415miles and 37% left.
I changed the filter @50% range .
We are all creatures of habit .. but I always let mine warm up before taking off in the AM .
 

ShadowsPapa

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I run mine harder than probably most. I am always always over 3k every single day . Except Saturday when Im off 😉
I digress. I figure hey it says recliner is 6500 so whats 3k-4k gonna do.. probably nothing . So far I been right.
I think I stated before that everyday I have to go through first 4 gears revving to 4k just to get up to highway speed on this really steep pull on the highway. So my Jeep has no option 🙃.
I do use the minder
Im right this instant at 4415miles and 37% left.
I changed the filter @50% range .
We are all creatures of habit .. but I always let mine warm up before taking off in the AM .
You just can't drive here without going over 3K RPM.
The ramps onto highways are often fair inclines, and the tight curves mean you have to accelerate fast to fit into traffic. If an Iowan sees you trying to merge in, they close the gap, so you have to act fast.
Even just normal drives, mine kicks down a lot - hilly. It sustained over 4,000 RPM for a while yesterday. I let it.
Mine is often still over 1,000 RPM idle when I put it in D to leave the garage.
Winter, I do let it run a few seconds, but unless I do a remote start, I still don't let it run for more than a few seconds before taking off (moderately, of course)
 

Lost1wing

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I start and go.
I, as have others without the problem, have run our oil above 5,000 miles, some actually follow the oil life monitor without any issues at all.

I believe it still is a manufacturing quality issue - I've seen this with cams and lifters over the years, especially replacement parts. Some have high failure rates with a certain brand of cam and lifters while others use them without fail. They are right at the edge of being "ok" - meaning the parts will last fine under some conditions, not under others. It's a manufacturing issue as they should hold up under all "normal" conditions, but don't.
If they are in specs, but barely - right at the edge, maybe a few cross that line, it would explain a lot. Some of us get those just in specs while others get those just out of specs.

How often the oil is changed appears to have no impact at all. Those who take the change intervals out longer don't have any more problems than those who change at 3 to 5K miles.

knowing how these work, I'm of the mind that you should not try to keep the rpm down. It's more likely to kick into high lift mode to get the power needed. Let the damned thing work and if it means driving for half a mile at 4,000 RPM while towing - LET IT. Those keeping the RPM down in the low 2s artificially by manually shifting to control the RPM aren't doing it any favors.
Let it work as designed.
The right side cams and rockers vs the left side cams and rockers have me believe it is oiling issue. If this is the case, a fix might not be feasible to Stellantis. Blame it on the Rocker/Cam, take care of the few it affects and Stellantis washes their hands.

The cam fails due to the coating on the rocker failing. Same coating that is on the left side rockers if I understand correctly. What is the oil pressure at each cylinder head? What is the volume of oil going to each cylinder head? I saw a post where they talked about the oil passages, but nothing specifically about pressure or volume of the oil.

I don't think a company as big as Stellantis would ever admit to a poor design when they could push it as third party manufacturer defect. What do I know?
 

Lost1wing

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I run mine harder than probably most. I am always always over 3k every single day . Except Saturday when Im off 😉
I digress. I figure hey it says red line is 6500 so whats 3k-4k gonna do.. probably nothing . So far I been right.
I think I stated before that everyday I have to go through first 4 gears revving to 4k just to get up to highway speed on this really steep pull on the highway. So my Jeep has no option 🙃.
I do use the minder
Im right this instant at 4415miles and 37% left.
I changed the filter @50% range .
We are all creatures of habit .. but I always let mine warm up before taking off in the AM .
That is what makes no sense. You are the person that I would expect to see cam issue earlier than most. Then you see the exact opposite style driver with issues very early on. What we do have in common is the warm up period. My warm up may be not as long as one would think. Start and drive idling to the highway is what I do mostly. It is at least one minute of idling. Then I try and keep it under 3k, until engine temp rises.

I did have a tapping noise on start up last week. It was after 2 weeks of sitting. It hasn't done it since. But it made me think about it.
 

Lost1wing

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You just can't drive here without going over 3K RPM.
The ramps onto highways are often fair inclines, and the tight curves mean you have to accelerate fast to fit into traffic. If an Iowan sees you trying to merge in, they close the gap, so you have to act fast.
Even just normal drives, mine kicks down a lot - hilly. It sustained over 4,000 RPM for a while yesterday. I let it.
Mine is often still over 1,000 RPM idle when I put it in D to leave the garage.
Winter, I do let it run a few seconds, but unless I do a remote start, I still don't let it run for more than a few seconds before taking off (moderately, of course)
The one time that I towed another vehicle with the JT, it pretty much stayed above 3.5k. That is the reason I don't even bother towing with it. I have something else for that.

Flat land and no traffic makes it easy to keep it under 3k.
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