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Mopar 2" lift kit install DIY

Philyd1

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Anyone install the 2" Mopar lift kit on their own? And If you did maybe would like to do a DIY video or a write up with pictures? Or is this on YT already?

Thanks!
I did mine last night, i only did the front but it took me about 3 hours total, it really not bad, if i had a lift and wasnt on my back it would have been much faster
 

BosRacing

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Did mine in under 2 hours.... No video though.
 

FishSD

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Are there decent instructions with the kit? Do you need an alignment afterwords?
 

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perullo

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O dmmm was hoping you said lift. Now I have to say challenge accepted lmao
I'm doing this install right now whenever I can grab an hour. Finished off the front last night.
It's taken me a while because this is my first jeep and I have zero experience with suspension work like this - so I'm following the instructions carefully. A few notables so far:
- even stock, this thing is high... and I wish I had more jacking capability. I can't get high enough via the frame to get the front tires to clear the ground without jacking up the diff on its own too. Not too big a deal in itself.
- SAE and metric? Like a 21mm bolt with a 15/16" nut on it? What am I taking crazy pills? I really have to assume I'm wrong but.. I really tried everything and this seems to be the case. True story?
- There is a seemingly trivial step where you slip some bumpers in with the new front springs. Small black plastic bumpers with a small stud integrated and - lo and behold - a nice hole already in the factory spring seat for the stud to pass through. AWESOME. The instructions have a nice little diagram showing you happily putting on the supplied nut and torquing it to 40 ft-lbs. Real cool right? That's where my personal hell began. Slipping the bumper in - easy. But to get to the stud and thread the nut... almost impossible. I could barely do it but then.. torque wrench? You gotta be kidding. I was somehow able to get a ratchet in there (impossible on driver side and 20% more difficult on passenger) and get about 4 degrees of movement per "turn", but the nut/thread is super tight and rough, so it takes significant torque to thread the whole length of it. While the ratchet is falling out of place. And then you have that slippery rubber bumper to somehow reach through the springs and hold still.
I think I spent a solid 40 minutes to get those 2 little nothings on. Rage.
- with the front done last night I did a quick measure (had done one before as well) and it is almost exactly +3" tire to fender. I expect it will settle a little once I bounce it around, so will measure again when the whole thing is done and report.
 

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Ted Striker

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I know how you feel about that little bump stop for the front springs. I fought with that for quite awhile on mine. I used a ratcheting wrench to get in there and could only get about a 1/8 turn on it as well. I tightened it up and said to myself "Yep, that's about 40 ft/lbs." :LOL:

Oh, and you're not crazy about the SAE/Metric. I thought the same thing while installing mine.

Just wait until you have to torque the control arms to 190 ft./lbs. :LOL:

Mine settled out to about 2.5" of total lift when all was said and done.
 

LongTimeListener

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- SAE and metric? Like a 21mm bolt with a 15/16" nut on it? What am I taking crazy pills? I really have to assume I'm wrong but.. I really tried everything and this seems to be the case. True story?
Yes. Jeep has a nasty habit of doing this, and it's a real problem. The mismatch on the front track bar bolt contributes to eventual death wobble, even on stock Jeeps. It introduces just enough play into the system to start wiggling things loose.

Northridge has a "Grade 8 Bolt Kit" that solves the problem by using stronger bolts/nuts and correctly matching them. It's about $45.
 

perullo

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I finished up the install. The rear was a lot quicker - not the least of which was because the centered diff made it easy to lift both wheels/sides equally with just one jack placement. It looks phenomenal and rides great. Love it. Oh btw I added 35" K02s (on the stock overland rims) shortly before the lift kit.
My front tires will rub the control arms at just about 100% full-stop steering. I imagine it's something I wouldn't deal with if I had some offset wheels, as the fronts in particular don't protrude one bit outside the wheel wells right now. I'm liking it and pretty fine with it as-is. It's truly full stop so no real need to be there, and it's sidewall on smooth steel, so not going to puncture or sever anything if it happens for a few seconds now and then. FYI I just listed my stock suspension and tires on the WTS section at firesale prices, so you if you have any need, grab it.
 

Ted Striker

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I finished up the install. The rear was a lot quicker - not the least of which was because the centered diff made it easy to lift both wheels/sides equally with just one jack placement. It looks phenomenal and rides great. Love it. Oh btw I added 35" K02s (on the stock overland rims) shortly before the lift kit.
My front tires will rub the control arms at just about 100% full-stop steering. I imagine it's something I wouldn't deal with if I had some offset wheels, as the fronts in particular don't protrude one bit outside the wheel wells right now. I'm liking it and pretty fine with it as-is. It's truly full stop so no real need to be there, and it's sidewall on smooth steel, so not going to puncture or sever anything if it happens for a few seconds now and then. FYI I just listed my stock suspension and tires on the WTS section at firesale prices, so you if you have any need, grab it.
Just get some 1/4" or 1/2" wheel spacers and move them out a little and stop the rub. Should still be within the fender with going that small.
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