Mopar factory trailer brake controller - my impressions and review

[ShadowsPapa]

But wasn’t your truck close to 50k? It’s a $30 harness... just get that thing working and move on!

Oh give me a freakin' break. I'm supposed to buy parts to make a MOPAR part work?
Smartass

So if you take your doors off, put them back and something on the door doesn't work - go buy a new connector and rewire it. Don't blame Jeep since you can fix it yourself with new parts.

You are telling every JT owner who buys this and has a problem - hey, you need to go buy more parts to fix it! Not just me, but the roughly 30% who will buy this and have it set codes and cause trouble that they need to spend more to make it work.

Here is their marketing bullshit - word-for-word:
Since it comes from Mopar, the Gladiator trailer brake comes with a two-year/unlimited mile warranty from the date of purchase or up to the remainder of the new vehicle’s warranty of three years and 36,000 miles.

Sponsored

 

[Wkyfiregladdy]

I'd laugh but this whole thing isn't too funny.
First - Jeep appears to have NO CLUE AT ALL that there is even any problem.
They don't realize that the instructions are full of crap, that the controller kicks errors in about 30% of installs. Until they figure out there's a problem, there's no reason for them to work on any parts.
We need everyone - every single JT owner who has a problem to contact Jeep customer care and complain.
Since I'm the only person to have even taken it to a dealer and tried - my bet is that they still have no clue.
They likely think oh, one guy in Iowa has a problem with this, he messed up, not our problem.
Why would they start working on a part when they aren't aware there's a problem -
As of my visit to the dealer here, as of that time, Jeep was unaware and their response - there's a harness coming in February - the problem is - that harness isn't a fix!

Since it comes from Mopar, the Gladiator trailer brake comes with a two-year/unlimited mile warranty from the date of purchase or up to the remainder of the new vehicle’s warranty of three years and 36,000 miles.

And that's what I'm going to be pushing.
But am I the only one trying to complain to Jeep?

A little off topic, but in the same in a way, the instructions for mopar lift kit are incorrect, as well pictures and stuff don’t correlate with lift spring perches..... I’m starting to think it’s a mopar thing after seeing the issue with the instructions for TBC

 

[redrider]

FCA/Jeep spends how long and what amount of money designing the JT only to have these types of problems? So happy I did not get the first year edition. Perhaps all will be sorted by 2525 if man is still alive.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

FCA/Jeep spends how long and what amount of money designing the JT only to have these types of problems? So happy I did not get the first year edition. Perhaps all will be sorted by 2525 if man is still alive.

This isn't a "first year" issue, nothing connected to that.
Almost all of the electronics have existed in Wrangler for a while.

 

[tampahoosier]

I just installed mine and everything seems to be working fine. Only thing wrong was the controller was the wrong way on the mount but it was only 2 screws to fix.

Yup same here, mine was backwards but it was obvious and took two screws to fix. I have the M.O.R.E. Offorad dead pedal so I ended up leaving the mounting plate off anyways (the pedal uses the mounted holes).

I have a fully loaded Rubicon, no options left unchecked on my build and I can’t replicate the issue shadowpapa is complaining about. I can turn the dial and push the button and I hear a click behind the dash upon button push, but that is is it. Truck is running and nothing plugged into the trailer wiring harness when I push the button.

Quality feels fine to me, same plastic as the rest of the dash components. I don’t know what is being said about this upper/lower hole clip thing... I just pulled the trailer wire harness that jeep left tapped up and stuffed against the wall high up in the left hand side. I plugged it plugged it into the brake controller with the other wire and that’s it. Am I missing something here?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Quality feels fine to me, same plastic as the rest of the dash components. I don’t know what is being said about this upper/lower hole clip thing... I just pulled the trailer wire harness that jeep left tapped up and stuffed against the wall high up in the left hand side. I plugged it plugged it into the brake controller with the other wire and that’s it. Am I missing something here?

Since you didn't mount yours as per instructions then you'd not notice they didn't have the instructions pointing to the correct place to cut or remove the clamp that holds the harness against the steel brace the controller mounts to.
That was just pointing out one of the differences between the instructions and reality.
Also I have noticed that some of the pictures I've seen so far indicate that some have the wires clamped in place using the lower hole as shown, some in the upper.
A minor thing - but it was simply to point out "yet another instruction snafu". Even the tech I talked to said those instructions are a joke (along with other pictorial instructions Mopar uses)
Anyway, you didn't mount the steel plate so of course you'd not note the discrepancy.

Apparently you have not used other brake controllers knobs to compare the quality. The thin tiny plastic used in the knob and dial of this one is not near as good and solid as others. Even the feel turning that dial says cheap - compared to others. The quality was disappointing. It was one of those "if you drop this you are screwed" things - especially the extremely thin light guide in the knob. Turning the dial you hear a rubbing sound, it's not smooth and has a totally different feel from better made dials.
I wish I could show how much difference there is between this one and other controllers but pictures wouldn't do it - you'd have to experience turning the knob, pressing the button, feeling the weight and quality of the product.

Again, that's more of an aside, an observation.

Sounds like you may be minimizing the issues others have seen with this item.
It is not working well for some others - it's a problem product for a number of people.

You didn't include a build date so your experience can't yet be compared with the others - to try to find a pattern. If your truck was built in 2019 then it goes against the apparent trend as have one or two others, meaning it's not a build date thing. IF your truck was built mid-to-late 2020, then it does fit a pattern making us wonder if it's the truck that's the difference.

The dealer said it has a problem.........

 

[Jaxmax]

Bill, you have to chill a bit, it's just a car.
The guy tells you he had a more difficult install as the MORE foot rest uses the same holes as the brake controller plate, but it went ok and he is happy with it, and ya lecture him.
I also had an easy install, had to flip controller on plate so it matched instructions, instructions made sense to me, holes were where they showed them, wiring harness straps were in two holes one of which had to be removed and replaced with included strap, my time under the dash doing the plate was less then the time using the tool to pull out 12volt outlet, That sucked! I mounted the plate first then plugged in connectors easily no rubbing on wires or metal, the knob is fine with me it has no rubbing sound but does have the click of the indents that are firm enough that it won't move accidentally. It works fine and has the knob face lit when dash lights are on, quality seems fine to me. You have a lot of issues with the brake controller that will not be solved by Jeep making it work, or with going to get an aftermarket adaptor cord, it still will be a cheap, crappy, filmsy plastic, rubbing thing that annoys you, you should get your money back and install a better quality one such as the Redarc you already did have.
Not beating you up, but life is short this is such a small thing....Jack

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Bill, you have to chill a bit, it's just a car.
The guy tells you he had a more difficult install as the MORE foot rest uses the same holes as the brake controller plate, but it went ok and he is happy with it, and ya lecture him.
I also had an easy install, had to flip controller on plate so it matched instructions, instructions made sense to me, holes were where they showed them, wiring harness straps were in two holes one of which had to be removed and replaced with included strap, my time under the dash doing the plate was less then the time using the tool to pull out 12volt outlet. I mounted the plate first then plugged in connectors easily no rubbing on wires or metal, the knob is fine with me it has no rubbing sound but does have the click of the indents that are firm enough that it won't move accidentally. It works fine and has the knob face lit when dash lights are on, quality seems fine to me. You have a lot of issues with the brake controller that will not be solved by Jeep making it work, or with going to get an aftermarket adaptor cord, it still will be a cheap, crappy, filmsy plastic, rubbing thing that annoys you, you should get your money back and install a better quality one such as the Redarc you already did have.
Not beating you up, but life is short this is such a small thing....Jack

Just a car - well, I bought it for towing show cars on a flatbed. So far, using FACTORY parts, that's not possible. It will get fixed - I just have to push them hard to make it happen. My primary purpose was to have a truck, and be able to tow. (and I may have been the only person to buy for those reasons LOL)

I think part of it is some come in and "gee, that was simple, I didn't have any problems" as if implying "what's the big deal, I didn't so you shouldn't".
Some of these work, some don't. Sometimes there's an issue with orientation, sometimes not - differences in TRUCKS.
My dealer's tech even griped about how tight it was - and he agreed it wasn't possible to orient it as the pictures - he tried perhaps wondering what I had done wrong LOL. (he made a comment he couldn't see how it could be installed the other way very easily)
So I think part of my reaction is when people come in and say "it works, what's your problem, you must not be doing it right" - not in so many words, but the implication is there.

There is a positive that has this dial with an advantage over others. It's not as easy or simple to get off setting by accidentally bumping it while reaching for the t-case shifter, a window switch, or anything else in that crowded area.
The Redarc dial is much more substantial, but there is no resistance to turning, no detent at all, no friction, bumping it turns it.
Do you mean an actual DETENT - or just a resisrtance to turning - friction?
Mine resists turning because of friction- it doesn't turn as easy as the Redarc (that's a GOOD thing) but there's no detent feel at all. There are no set "stops".
Just wanting to clarify we both have the same thought as what "detent" is......
Appearance -the integration into the dash look is fantastic - gotta give 'em that. The look is at least as good as expected. They couldn't have made it LOOK any better.

I prefer the wires forward because of that, so that's simply something Jeep needs to deal with in the instructions.
I'm going to guess that they found issues with the "as instructed" orientation. (as my dealer did!!)
If these are like any other controller with a remote dial - then orientation should make zero difference. It would simply work because the sensing is all quartz electronics.
I have actually thought about mounting it where I had the Redarc box. Why not? Easier access, less crowded in the wiring area, and that's what I SHOULD have done instead of fighting the install So in a way, the fight under the dash was my fault - I should have put it where the larger Redarc box was and been done with it. There's more than enough room where I had that unit.

The biggest problem is that it simply doesn't work as sold for SOME OF US.
Maybe not a huge number of failures, but enough to prove mine isn't a 'one-off' broken unit.
If Jeep fixes that - eventually - the rest is "acceptable".
When you spend 50K on a truck, then wait a year for a factory brake controller and spend another more than 250 on the controller, you should be able to expect some quality.
Had it simply worked, the rest would be easy to overlook.

Since Jeep is CLUELESS and doesn't seem to really care, it's up to me to fight for the correct fix. It's a warranty issue with an expensive product.
I fought them and won on the tonneau cover - I got a new one..........

 

[tampahoosier]

Sounds like you may be minimizing the issues others have seen with this item.
It is not working well for some others - it's a problem product for a number of people.

Nope, it doesn’t sound like I’m minimizing. I’m just not echoing your sentiment. I posted earlier (possibly in a different thread you were on) that my bracket was also backwards. I also made the comment that my dash does not light up when pushing the button, I guess that was overlooked by you? I just think most of what you are complaining about are the result of your decision to buy a new vehicle with a new part that has been moved between manufacturers as the result of COVID.

These are kinks that need to be worked out in any new system. It’s not as if Jeep has locked us out of using other options. If there are better, less expensive options then great.

Call it minimizing if you will but I just consider that as me sharing my experience just as you have. Sorry it doesn’t fit what you were hoping to here!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Nope, it doesn’t sound like I’m minimizing. I’m just not echoing your sentiment. I posted earlier (possibly in a different thread you were on) that my bracket was also backwards. I also made the comment that my dash does not light up when pushing the button, I guess that was overlooked by you? I just think most of what you are complaining about are the result of your decision to buy a new vehicle with a new part that has been moved between manufacturers as the result of COVID.

These are kinks that need to be worked out in any new system. It’s not as if Jeep has locked us out of using other options. If there are better, less expensive options then great.

Call it minimizing if you will but I just consider that as me sharing my experience just as you have. Sorry it doesn’t fit what you were hoping to here!

The opposite - more info is better. If nothing else it either confirms or denies a pattern.
As far as the Covid stuff - I'm beginning to think like Daniel - really? That's their reasoning as the instructions, VERSION TWO - was printed in March - meaning version 1 was well before things really locked down much. The instructions from the first of the year clearly show a Tekonsha connector.

kinks? New system? What's new about it? The Gladiator? No, same electronics as other years and vehicles. The brake controller? No, those exist from several companies - all they had to do was take existing technology, test it with Jeeps, package and sell it. Neither is new. This controller does nothing more than any other except look and fit perfectly with the dash and supposedly sit up out of the way of other stuff. Nothing new here. What was to develop?

>> I just think most of what you are complaining about are the result of your decision to buy a new vehicle with a new part that has been moved between manufacturers as the result of COVID.<<

Really? No. my complaint is that they shipped an item that wasn't fully tested, and instructions that even dealers say are wrong.
They shipped a product unable to perform as they claim and state - because it sets codes when you use it and disables almost all safety features of the truck.
They shipped a product with incorrect sales codes, and showing a harness that doesn't exist in the instructions.
My decision to buy was over a year ago - and at that time we were promised a controller by the end of 2019. Covid wasn't even in play October 2019.

The complaint is - for a number of us it simply does not work - period.
I've worked in design, manufacturing, electronics and automotive - this product was not tested or vetted properly.
"Here it is - it may or may not work for you."

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Nope, it doesn’t sound like I’m minimizing. I’m just not echoing your sentiment. I posted earlier (possibly in a different thread you were on) that my bracket was also backwards. I also made the comment that my dash does not light up when pushing the button, I guess that was overlooked by you? I just think most of what you are complaining about are the result of your decision to buy a new vehicle with a new part that has been moved between manufacturers as the result of COVID.

These are kinks that need to be worked out in any new system. It’s not as if Jeep has locked us out of using other options. If there are better, less expensive options then great.

Call it minimizing if you will but I just consider that as me sharing my experience just as you have. Sorry it doesn’t fit what you were hoping to here!

PS - I do not want to argue with you. And I do appreciate the input. More info is always helpful - even if it's not what you were looking for.
It's been a weird fall, week, and day - Alex Trebek died - weird that it should even be a second thought, but it brought back thoughts of family and all (who also died after 2 years surviving with it)
I came across badly, jaxmax caught me on it, and I apologize - to all.

PS - avoid Iowa - we are setting new records daily, not in a good way, either....... stay safe.

 

[Jaxmax]

Bill, my knob had detents at each half number and each number, it clicks there is resistance to movement I have no rubbing sound or feeling.
I’m in charge of a bunch of electricians that I consider top notch trouble shooters, much better then factory techs on the equipment we use. They have a saying WWJD, What Would Jack Do.... they know I want them to step back, take a break , call anyone about anything , then go back and take another run at it, they usually get it. It so annoys them when I show up in the middle of a disaster and just casually tell them to stop , look around and hey perhaps look this setting or part, and it is it!
So Bill step back, take a break, weird things going on here, everyone has their idea what it is, wiring harness in trucks apparently did not change as some old builds and new builds work fine , it is not the ACC or other options as fully loaded old and new builds work fine. Top notch mechcanics and total novices that don’t know anything manage to get it working fine while others with same talents or lack there of fail miserably. Some guys are using a aftermarket cable with diode in it, but most of the successful ones are not, the aftermarket cable is the hint, it’s not the wiring, it’s the controller.
Bill, step back call someone about anything other then controllers, then call your dealer and return your defective controller and get a new one, then drink three beers in three minutes spin around twice and say screw it here goes and have at it, you will swap everything out in a jiffy, and it will work , yes you will be lucky! Make sure you spin around twice , if ya fall, ya can’t handle the beer!

Ps: If the dealer says no ,tell them Jack Mack, of the Mack Truck family and a damn good Electrical Manager and a lucky, good looking guy says that is the problem, and I will be able to get to the right guy at FCA if I have to.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

LOL - good one.
I'll see if there's something about how the controller dial fit, or if it's something else. It turned without the feeling of any detent last I tried. So either there's something rubbing - or there's yet another issue with this specific controller. I need to see what's up there.

I didn't buy the controller locally - I assume a local dealer can handle it, though, since it's a Mopar part. I bought online via a discount seller - although almost every one of them is actually a Mopar dealership parts department. Even Quadratec parts come from a Jeep dealership.

I don't want to take this one out until there's a definite fix. I prefer to not pull dash parts apart and risk those clips and fasteners, or messing up the edges of the tight-fitting panels taking this one out, putting the dash back together, then taking it all apart again.
So when there's a fix...... will swap them.
Also am not going to just risk another one for the same reasons. At least a person could assemble it and just plug it in under the dash and never actually install it - just to test it.
Since the true root of the issue is unknown - there's no way of knowing which ones will work until you actually plug them in and try them.

With electronics, it could still be an issue with the truck itself - my experience at Compressor Controls Corp proved that. (unless the quality control on these controllers was so horrible each one could be putting out different voltages on the brake lamp line!)
The same component from a different manufacturer could react differently, the same cards put into different bus slots on a PC board could cause errors - or work fine.

So until Jeep comes up with a firm, proven fix - I'm not taking anything apart. No use doing it twice.

In the meantime, I dropped the mowing deck off the lawn tractor, winched it up into storage against the garage wall and set the safety chain, plated (bright zinc) a bunch of parts for a guy doing a full show-car restoration in Indiana, started putting a Prestolite wiper motor back together I'm restoring for another guy's show car, and vacuumed up hundreds if not thousands of flies that found their way into my shop and died (well, that auto-spray thing may have had something to do with their deaths)

 

[salvino]

Not a happy camper. I totally wasted a lot of money.

It's not at all ready for prime time.

First - do NOT even think of touching that button with no trailer and the engine running.

That's right - no diode, it will light your cluster like the 4th of July or Christmas - and it disabled 4 functions on my jeep until I shut down and restarted.

The instructions are wrong in two places - they show it with wires facing you as you install it but it comes reversed - which is correct? The arrow points to removing a wire strap on the lower hole, it's actually the upper hole.

VERY hard to plug it in installed as it's shown, but much easier if it's reversed from the directions (installed as it comes)

Comparing this to Redarc -
Redarc single mode controller - about 136
Mopar single mode controller - over 250
Redarc dual mode controller with bezel and Ram harness with diode - under 250

So for less money you can get a dual purpose controller that has a diode in the line and won't light up your dash if you press that button without a trailer connected. Not a biggy - but if you are like me and may bump that button shifting the t-case or reaching for a window switch or whatever, it will be a problem.

What does the Mopar controller do that Recarc does not?
Nothing.

It doesn't light with headlights on, it only lights with a trailer. Which is fine because you don't need it without a trailer, right?

It doesn't integrate into the electronics in any way - it won't show on your dash or screen. It's a dumb controller just like Curt, Redarc, etc. But for about twice the money.

Obviously this was a hurry-up thing. They never tested it.

So why do we all want it? Because the control knob matches the dash! That's it.

I find zero advantage and several disadvantages.

Frankly, I'm concerned about how cheap and light the control dial is - it's a fraction of the weight and thickness of the smaller Redarc knob. I have a feeling it's not going to hold up well.

I'm still debating, especially after finding it will light up your dash and crap out if you hit the button by accident, I may still rip it out and trash it.

I'll see how I feel after a couple of days - but one more time of that fXXX thing lighting up my dash and it's out of there.

I can't believe Mopar released this overpriced cheaply made thing that doesn't even have any protection from error (like a diode)

What gives, Jeep? What a joke.

Show me an advantage this has over the Redarc controller - other than LOOKS. Seriously.

I expected something WELL MADE, with a solid control knob, not some cheap thin plastic.

And like I say - it doesn't even light with no trailer.

Where's the advantage and why did we all - including stupid ME - rush to get this thing?

Instructions are a mess -
There is no ADH code for Gladiator, that's a Wranger, etc. code. So anyone with a Gladiator is going to be confused by that including DEALERS!

The instructions show in at least SIX (6) places where the controller itself should be mounted with connectors facing you - pointing back. It comes the other way.

The instructions point to a lower hole and show removing a wire harness clip - the clip is actually in the UPPER hole and mine was a bitch to get out!
I could go on - but you see the deal - it was rushed out and the instructions were never checked, tested, etc.

After reading this I am returning mine in the original package. I ordered a Redarc controller for less and the reviews are very good. In addition, you don’t loose your 12v outlet.

 

[kclendaniel]

I took my trailer on a 500 mile trip through the mountains of western VA with this controller and it did work flawlessly. The detent of the settings keeps the setting in place and yes the lighting only really works when the trailer is hooked up (yet seems to come on initially at startup when you are unhooked but then turns off). My initial review? It's a brake controller. Nothing special. If it works on your truck it will work (I even had to test locking up the trailer tires on the Capital beltway due to DC idiocy). Sorry I forgot to ask the wife to check the 'California compliance'. I will see if I can get that checked tonight.

Sponsored