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jwilson2899

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So what's the verdict aside from the manual triggering of the trailer brakes. Does the brake controller work in normal operation? I can live with the errors till feb but I do need a working trailer brake controller.

Edit - To clarify, I can live with the errors because I shouldn't need to manually trigger the brakes often. If there's another scenario that causes the dash to Christmas tree...that's a different story.
I haven’t had my trailer hooked up yet, but I do have a Tekonsha 7 way tester that simulates trailer brakes. With that hooked up, the controller functions as it should except for the manual button triggering the dash. The trailer brakes still fire fine when you do this, but you get the accompanying dash light show.
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ShadowsPapa

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Thanks so much for running it to ground. Based on that, those are indeed piss poor instructions.
You should have seen the tech's reaction to them. He saw me pull the instructions out of the box (I took the original box so they'd see the part number, and proof of where it came from) and I set it down and he immediately said "their instructions are a joke" or words to that effect. He more than once commented on the instructions and how bad they were.

Take a look at the wiring harness they label as K in the instructions - no end or shell on it - pins. The show the connector as not installed. But if you look, you'll note it's the part that connects to the brake controller box itself.
The end isn't on it because they want you to feed those wires in through the firewall then install the shell and plug it to the controller. There's a ground that goes under the hood, as well as a battery + connection. Then other wires that connect to the wiring in the right sill area.
So they are indeed replacing that connection to the JT's harness, taking the current 36" harness out of play and replacing it with this one you make up as you go in a sense.

Can't wait to see if that Tekonsha harness resolves this.
 

atoy74

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I haven’t had my trailer hooked up yet, but I do have a Tekonsha 7 way tester that simulates trailer brakes. With that hooked up, the controller functions as it should except for the manual button triggering the dash. The trailer brakes still fire fine when you do this, but you get the accompanying dash light show.
Ah, so according to the tester, it's not looking good that the Tekonsha cable is going to fix it. Correct?
 

HemiMagnum1

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I installed mine over the weekend. It went in eventually, but the sensor plate was mounted backwards like everyone else's... I need to test it with a trailer. I have a Max Tow.

C1E0240B-2897-4972-8B41-03FF7DFBF1CE.jpeg
 

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ShadowsPapa

ShadowsPapa

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Heads up Etrailer wants over $100 for that cable. under $30 from Amazon.
I ordered my Redarc direct from Redarc and got it a few bucks cheaper. Etrailer was higher on every piece.
That harness is 25.93 and free shipping on Amazon.
 
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ShadowsPapa

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I installed mine over the weekend. It went in eventually, but the sensor plate was mounted backwards like everyone else's... I need to test it with a trailer. I have a Max Tow.

Jeep Gladiator Mopar factory trailer brake controller - my impressions and review C1E0240B-2897-4972-8B41-03FF7DFBF1CE
The tech I spoke with today was wondering if they put that controller on the plate "backwards" from the directions on purpose due to the difficulty and really tight bends needed to get it in place by the pictures. The other way - as shipped, it's easier to deal with the wiring. Took me a while to figure that out and that was frustrating - those instructions are only good on about 1 page, otherwise they are great for lighting your kindling in the fireplace at night.
 

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I have the tekonsha harness that I use with my prodigy and the controller just showed up. I won't be able to get to it anytime soon, though.

Coincidentally, I'm taking the jeep in this week for the steering tsb. I was thinking of asking them to install it but with these issues and a possible wiring fix under warranty, I'm inclined to hold off.
 
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I'm not at all happy with the so-called "fix" either as it literally bypasses the truck wiring and installs a new harness out through the firewall, connected to the battery with a fuse holder in the wire, etc. then soldered to wires in the right sill area.
I'm going to see if I can get some more detail - like a wiring schematic for the trailer wiring in these. I want to know what's being cut and tacked onto.

I'm going to guess they are wiring the controller directly to the trailer brake lights and not the truck brake lights but want to verify that.
So I need schematics.
 

eternus

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Not a happy camper. I totally wasted a lot of money.

It's not at all ready for prime time.

First - do NOT even think of touching that button with no trailer and the engine running.

That's right - no diode, it will light your cluster like the 4th of July or Christmas - and it disabled 4 functions on my jeep until I shut down and restarted.

The instructions are wrong in two places - they show it with wires facing you as you install it but it comes reversed - which is correct? The arrow points to removing a wire strap on the lower hole, it's actually the upper hole.

VERY hard to plug it in installed as it's shown, but much easier if it's reversed from the directions (installed as it comes)

Comparing this to Redarc -
Redarc single mode controller - about 136
Mopar single mode controller - over 250
Redarc dual mode controller with bezel and Ram harness with diode - under 250

So for less money you can get a dual purpose controller that has a diode in the line and won't light up your dash if you press that button without a trailer connected. Not a biggy - but if you are like me and may bump that button shifting the t-case or reaching for a window switch or whatever, it will be a problem.

What does the Mopar controller do that Recarc does not?
Nothing.

It doesn't light with headlights on, it only lights with a trailer. Which is fine because you don't need it without a trailer, right?

It doesn't integrate into the electronics in any way - it won't show on your dash or screen. It's a dumb controller just like Curt, Redarc, etc. But for about twice the money.

Obviously this was a hurry-up thing. They never tested it.

So why do we all want it? Because the control knob matches the dash! That's it.

I find zero advantage and several disadvantages.

Frankly, I'm concerned about how cheap and light the control dial is - it's a fraction of the weight and thickness of the smaller Redarc knob. I have a feeling it's not going to hold up well.

I'm still debating, especially after finding it will light up your dash and crap out if you hit the button by accident, I may still rip it out and trash it.

I'll see how I feel after a couple of days - but one more time of that fXXX thing lighting up my dash and it's out of there.

I can't believe Mopar released this overpriced cheaply made thing that doesn't even have any protection from error (like a diode)

What gives, Jeep? What a joke.

Show me an advantage this has over the Redarc controller - other than LOOKS. Seriously.

I expected something WELL MADE, with a solid control knob, not some cheap thin plastic.

And like I say - it doesn't even light with no trailer.

Where's the advantage and why did we all - including stupid ME - rush to get this thing?

Instructions are a mess -
There is no ADH code for Gladiator, that's a Wranger, etc. code. So anyone with a Gladiator is going to be confused by that including DEALERS!

The instructions show in at least SIX (6) places where the controller itself should be mounted with connectors facing you - pointing back. It comes the other way.

The instructions point to a lower hole and show removing a wire harness clip - the clip is actually in the UPPER hole and mine was a bitch to get out!
I could go on - but you see the deal - it was rushed out and the instructions were never checked, tested, etc.
Thanks for this, was already leaning towards Redarc anyway, this just clenches it.
 

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jwilson2899

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Ah, so according to the tester, it's not looking good that the Tekonsha cable is going to fix it. Correct?
Actually it should fix it just fine. Everything is working fine with the brakes, we just need to diode to keep the signal from back feeding the truck.
 
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ShadowsPapa

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I took another - and closer - look at the harness Jeep is proposing and will release next Feb.
Mmmmmm- I think they screwed up again. The more I look, the more I realize that it's to put wiring in that's already there.
For example, the "new" harness has a battery+ feed (already exists) and a ground feed (already exists) and a wire going to the trailer brakes (already exists) and they connect the 4th wire - to the brake light wire....... weird, they are already doing that!
The only difference I see is where they connect that brake light wire.
So why a WHOLE NEW BIG harness when they already have all that?
No, I think Jeep screwed up again. I do not believe that the new harness is to fix - it still seems like it's to ADD wiring - that already EXISTS.
So I think I'll still be contacting Jeep support and following through.
I encourage ALL JT owners who have this controller and the malfunction to hit their dealers, insist a case is opened, even reference my case number if needed.

Nope, I'm convinced this harness is not a fix.
It's connecting the exact same wires to the same places except the brake light wire -
So - why not pull that wire out of the existing controller harness and run it over to the right and connect where the new next year harness will connect and save running another through the firewall, connecting to the battery and ground out there, and then coming back and soldering a wire to the trailer brake wire?
Why not simply MOVE the one wire that's causing the trouble to the other location?
Check steps 41-49 for example - why not just move the one wire over to B15?

Anyone here have access to the wiring diagrams or schematics and can tell me what B15 is?
If a person moved the wire that we're talking should have a diode - what if that wire was removed from the connector shell that plugs into the truck's harness, and moved over and connected to B15 - skip all the rest as that's simply +, - and trailer brakes - zero reason to move those.

When I look at this - if B15 is just another place on the same wire that the current connection is made on - then that harness isn't a fix, it's to add a place to connect a brake controller to.

In short, I think Jeep is full of BS on this.
I want diagrams, schematics, and want to know what B15 is and if it traces back to the original connection point. IF it does, folks, this new harness won't fix squat.

Please note the DATE on the instructions that come with this controller - MARCH 2020 - 8 (EIGHT) FREAKIN' MONTHS AGO!!
They had this printed 2/3 of a year ago, and since these instructions are the second revision, that means these instructions date back a year!

Man do I wish I had access to the WIRING DIAGRAMS for this truck!!!!!!!!!!!

(and no response from jeepcares, either)
 

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I am looking at this from a different perspective, how in the world could Jeep mess up wiring on the truck so bad that they need a harness to work around the incorrect wiring on the truck. If the controller will work on a Wrangler with the ADH package (Trailer Tow) why does it need the harness for the Gladiator? The wiring should be the same (just a little more length).

Brake controller wiring has been around for how long? How does the brake controller work for the Ram, does the Ram have the same problem? If not, why the difference.
 

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Thanks for the write up and review Shadow. I feel your pain. Makes me happy that I got impatient (one of my more negative qualities) and installed the Redarc.

I thought the "factory unit" would be integrated into the display as well. Huge disappointment.

It sucks when a manufacturer capable of the engineering that Dodge/Jeep does absolutely shits the bed on something as simple as a trailer brake controller.
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