My experience mounting Western Defender snow plow

[4-Play]

Awesome job, Bill.

I took the easy way out and found a Rubicon with independent front and rear suspension.

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[ShadowsPapa]

Awesome job, Bill.

I took the easy way out and found a Rubicon with independent front and rear suspension.

I have been using my JD with front blade, and sometimes left the scoop attachment on it, but as almost always happens here, after a snow, the temp plummets and the winds pick up and it's danged cold out there moving snow.

 

[4-Play]

Still better than shoveling and you can’t ride a snowblower. Had to do it, it’s a Rubicon!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

To finish things up, I need to aim the plow's headlights and find a better place to "park" the blade as with things uneven, where I have it sitting now, the right side of the blade is lower due to the slope of the concrete for drainage. (option - put a treated 2x4 under that end when stored for the summer.)

I'd like to find a better way to deal with the fat cables and connectors on the front of the truck. But that's my OCD kicking in, I guess. They do tuck under the top of the bumper at the right end of the winch so they are protected from rain and sunshine as far as the connector ends.

Electrically, these were the first two cables I installed.

This one (ignore the relay set there, that's the short adapter harness mentioned earlier) connects to the top of the IBS for ground, and to the 200 amp fuse they provide.
The 4 position connector shown is between the batter and air box on mine. That supplies power to the rest of the electronics. There's a big fat connector on the end of this that sticks out front and supplies the main power for the plow's solenoids and pump.
Cable placement is important as all of the harnesses connect to each other in some way - so I placed this one so I could have access to that 4 position connect for the next harness -

This is the second one I installed and it's about 4' or so too long but after slicing the shield to see what was inside, I decided against shortening it. It's got a shielded twisted pair in it for the control signals. I will talk to the dealer before I think further about shortening it.
Anyway, this runs from the battery area - the 4 position connector on the very end plugs into the cable installed for the main power. This is how the other stuff gets power and what the controller plugs into (small square white connector). That small white connector has to run into the cabin - and that's where I was asking where a good place to run the cable inside comes from.
This one on my truck runs from between the battery and air box, back along the driver side of the battery to the firewall, is strapped to the closed wiring channel on the firewall, over to the left side.
The other end I ran into the cabin and secured for the controller. The red wire is connected to the extension I made up for my 12v outlet as it has a terminal block to give ACC power. The rest of the length of the cable is doubled and runs to the front ahead of the washer tank in a big loop.

I pulled that plastic plug with the tabs, carefully drilled the center, put the small end of the cable through, worked a grommet over the cable, then worked the grommet into the hole in the plastic plug - and put the plug back in.

I did not like how I had one of the 3 relay arrays strapped to the Jeep's cable, so I made a bracket to hold them. I need to tweak and fine tun the bracket and clean it up, maybe paint it, to make it look more factory but it's proof of concept - my idea worked.
This is how it was yesterday - I was in a hurry and needed the truck back on the road last evening. I didn't care for this -

So, I changed it to this - needs to be cleaned up, maybe holes drilled to hold the straps instead of how I have them, but it's a start. That aluminum line sits proud of the body by a bit so I had to space the end of my piece up, and do a slight bend. I can do better - or clean this one up.

I made this simple bracket to bolt to the firewall/cowl area to hold the other relays. Simple, up-side-down L shape -

Soldering my connectors onto the ends of the plow's harness wires. These wires are what they said to connect to the truck's park and TS and DRL wiring by cutting the truck's wiring and tapping their wires into the truck's harness. I didn't like cutting into the truck's wiring - besides, it's a real #$%@# to get TO those wires to cut, crimp, solder, whatever!
I used sealing heat shrink for all connections - heck, this thing could get wet!

The other side, partially done.

 

[Summitsearcher]

To finish things up, I need to aim the plow's headlights and find a better place to "park" the blade as with things uneven, where I have it sitting now, the right side of the blade is lower due to the slope of the concrete for drainage. (option - put a treated 2x4 under that end when stored for the summer.)

I'd like to find a better way to deal with the fat cables and connectors on the front of the truck. But that's my OCD kicking in, I guess. They do tuck under the top of the bumper at the right end of the winch so they are protected from rain and sunshine as far as the connector ends.

Electrically, these were the first two cables I installed.

This one (ignore the relay set there, that's the short adapter harness mentioned earlier) connects to the top of the IBS for ground, and to the 200 amp fuse they provide.
The 4 position connector shown is between the batter and air box on mine. That supplies power to the rest of the electronics. There's a big fat connector on the end of this that sticks out front and supplies the main power for the plow's solenoids and pump.
Cable placement is important as all of the harnesses connect to each other in some way - so I placed this one so I could have access to that 4 position connect for the next harness -

This is the second one I installed and it's about 4' or so too long but after slicing the shield to see what was inside, I decided against shortening it. It's got a shielded twisted pair in it for the control signals. I will talk to the dealer before I think further about shortening it.
Anyway, this runs from the battery area - the 4 position connector on the very end plugs into the cable installed for the main power. This is how the other stuff gets power and what the controller plugs into (small square white connector). That small white connector has to run into the cabin - and that's where I was asking where a good place to run the cable inside comes from.
This one on my truck runs from between the battery and air box, back along the driver side of the battery to the firewall, is strapped to the closed wiring channel on the firewall, over to the left side.
The other end I ran into the cabin and secured for the controller. The red wire is connected to the extension I made up for my 12v outlet as it has a terminal block to give ACC power. The rest of the length of the cable is doubled and runs to the front ahead of the washer tank in a big loop.

I pulled that plastic plug with the tabs, carefully drilled the center, put the small end of the cable through, worked a grommet over the cable, then worked the grommet into the hole in the plastic plug - and put the plug back in.

I did not like how I had one of the 3 relay arrays strapped to the Jeep's cable, so I made a bracket to hold them. I need to tweak and fine tun the bracket and clean it up, maybe paint it, to make it look more factory but it's proof of concept - my idea worked.
This is how it was yesterday - I was in a hurry and needed the truck back on the road last evening. I didn't care for this -

So, I changed it to this - needs to be cleaned up, maybe holes drilled to hold the straps instead of how I have them, but it's a start. That aluminum line sits proud of the body by a bit so I had to space the end of my piece up, and do a slight bend. I can do better - or clean this one up.

I made this simple bracket to bolt to the firewall/cowl area to hold the other relays. Simple, up-side-down L shape -

Soldering my connectors onto the ends of the plow's harness wires. These wires are what they said to connect to the truck's park and TS and DRL wiring by cutting the truck's wiring and tapping their wires into the truck's harness. I didn't like cutting into the truck's wiring - besides, it's a real #$%@# to get TO those wires to cut, crimp, solder, whatever!
I used sealing heat shrink for all connections - heck, this thing could get wet!

The other side, partially done.

Ready to roll! Great job. Now you can have a hot coffee, heated seats and steering wheel while clearing the drive. The John Deere is gonna be lonely this winter.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Updated with more pics - sorry, no action pics. I knew that spending the bucks and time on a snow plow, and fixing my snow blower would mean a snow-free winter for us.

Quickie bracket I made to hold 3 of the relays for the lighting systems ->

Bracket I made to support the front of the isolation module for the lighting. The rear is attached to the cowl area ->

Harness from battery runs across the top of the firewall area and into the cab, then forward to the lights along the left side of engine bay.

Easy way to line up when driving into the plow hook-ups ->

 

[rr11]

A neighbor of mine moved from Colorado and has a snow plow on his F250. He thinks it's funny that he has the only snow plow in Florida.

 

[Rusty PW]

A neighbor of mine moved from Colorado and has a snow plow on his F250. He thinks it's funny that he has the only snow plow in Florida.

Prepping for the ice age to start.

 

[rr11]

Climate change in reverse.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

A neighbor of mine moved from Colorado and has a snow plow on his F250. He thinks it's funny that he has the only snow plow in Florida.

That's so funny you mention this at this time. My wife has mentioned just in passing "maybe someday we should move to Florida and be closer to your son and his family". And I'm thinking - OK, Jeep with snow plow, snow blower........... in Florida.
Between the two of us we have way too much stuff and I'd need at least 2 or 3 acres and a huge building for a shop and all of my stuff and my wife would need a huge space for her 4 (or is it 5?) sewing machines, a 12' quilting machine and 2 walls of built-in shelves full of fabric and her big 7'x5' sewing table.
Last move 28 years ago took so many trips, and so many people to accomplish, it's almost out of the question.

 

[WILDHOBO]

That's so funny you mention this at this time. My wife has mentioned just in passing "maybe someday we should move to Florida and be closer to your son and his family". And I'm thinking - OK, Jeep with snow plow, snow blower........... in Florida.
Between the two of us we have way too much stuff and I'd need at least 2 or 3 acres and a huge building for a shop and all of my stuff and my wife would need a huge space for her 4 (or is it 5?) sewing machines, a 12' quilting machine and 2 walls of built-in shelves full of fabric and her big 7'x5' sewing table.
Last move 28 years ago took so many trips, and so many people to accomplish, it's almost out of the question.

Moving is terrible. And at the risk of hurting someone’s feelings, we moved away from FL. It’s the best decision we’ve made in a while.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I mounted the plow today after the Synergy 2" springs went in yesterday.
I was concerned about the extra height of the truck as these are made to run with the rigging totally level - and with the truck's frame at the sway bar mount area 22" or less from the ground. Mine measured at 22" before the spring swap and is now way up in the range where the other mounting kit would be required.
I got it mounted but it required a floor jack because of the heigh difference.
The plow's stand won't touch the ground with these springs meaning I'll have to use a wood block under the stand (at least 1.5" thick) and maybe a jack to be the thing to where I can pull the pins to release it. Mounting is one thing - taking it loose is a lot more difficult because of the loading on the pins that hold it in place.
We'll see.
The truck sits a lot better with the weight on it, so there's a big positive.
With the 1" springs my measurement was at the stock 21.5" hub center to ridge on the fender's black trim. With the plow on and up it dropped 1.5" I can't recall what it dropped the truck with the plow mounted and in the down position.
Without the plow the truck height is 23.25" center of wheel's hub to ridge on the black fender trim.
With the plow mounted and down (only partial weight on the truck) it's 22.125 on the left, 22.25 on the right.
Plow mounted and raised up, distance is 21.625 left, 21.75 right side.
So with the plow on and raised, it still sits just a little bit over what it used to sit with no plow on it.
Stance with plow is a lot better. But it's going to be a pain to mount and take off (especially take off) now.

In the next pic you can see how the plow's structure slopes downward going forward. It's supposed to be dead-level from truck to blade.

Before connecting -

 

[chorky]

So how much additional lift over the specified 2" did the synergy springs give you then? Are you thinking of just rolling with this or looking into something different?

 

[Gatorized]

If you stored the plow on a 2 x 4 framework- would that allow on and off without changing the plow mount structure?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Starting a new adventure - but after today, there's no way I can get it accomplished. Still, I'll do all I can and have to have someone else finish it.
It took soooo long to get screws and washers and nuts into place because of the tremors, it was horrible. And getting under - no way, sick as heck trying to get under the beast.
But, I did accomplish something - it just took two hours to do what should take 1 as I can't hold onto fasteners and kept dropping things (held onto the 10mm socket, though)

Luckily, the Mojave in 25 still had a stud sticking up I could use for the headlight control box, but, I had to make a new bracket to brace it front and lower. I also moved one of the factory wire clips over to a different hole in the firewall ledge -

Had to make a longer aluminum brace as there's some dimensional differences in the engine bay with the 2025 -

This set of relays went right back into place - no mods or changes to the bracket I used on the 2022 Overland. As before, spaced it up to avoid contact with the AC line

As with the 22 Overland, used the remaining length of the bolt here to brace this end of the relay bracket -

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