well #1 son it was your help and grandsons that made it happen .. thanxs again
Finished my stealth (relocated solenoid) install last night... still working on what to do with the main switch, I may go 400A continuous-duty solenoid, but for now this is it:
I basically built a plate using a 1/8" thick plastic sheeting and some L-brackets for the lid. The solenoid is mounted to the plate against the battery and wedges perfectly between that and the wire bundle on the fender, forward of the main ground lugs.
The wireless "box" is (right now) just laying in the cavity to the right in the last pic where you see the small red wire.
Total cost was $10 for the plastic sheet (amazon) , $4 for the l-brackets (home depot) and I already had rivets and some rivnuts laying around.
Thanks!
Do you have pictures of what it looks like before you installed the plate?Finished my stealth (relocated solenoid) install last night... still working on what to do with the main switch, I may go 400A continuous-duty solenoid, but for now this is it:
I basically built a plate using a 1/8" thick plastic sheeting and some L-brackets for the lid. The solenoid is mounted to the plate against the battery and wedges perfectly between that and the wire bundle on the fender, forward of the main ground lugs.
The wireless "box" is (right now) just laying in the cavity to the right in the last pic where you see the small red wire.
Total cost was $10 for the plastic sheet (amazon) , $4 for the l-brackets (home depot) and I already had rivets and some rivnuts laying around.
I ended up making a plate that bolt near the cover mount to hold the switch. I may add a solenoid in the future to tie into my aux switch.Finished my stealth (relocated solenoid) install last night... still working on what to do with the main switch, I may go 400A continuous-duty solenoid, but for now this is it:
I basically built a plate using a 1/8" thick plastic sheeting and some L-brackets for the lid. The solenoid is mounted to the plate against the battery and wedges perfectly between that and the wire bundle on the fender, forward of the main ground lugs.
The wireless "box" is (right now) just laying in the cavity to the right in the last pic where you see the small red wire.
Total cost was $10 for the plastic sheet (amazon) , $4 for the l-brackets (home depot) and I already had rivets and some rivnuts laying around.
Nothing was installed... just loose 2-gauge wires waiting for something to connect to. The winch was in, but electric was not.
That's a clean look. I also thought about 90° terminal crimps on the ends and coming up from the bottom of the switch, then placing it directly on top of my plate near the remote harness.I ended up making a plate that bolt near the cover mount to hold the switch. I may add a solenoid in the future to tie into my aux switch.
Did you ever get this answered? I am planning my install and gathering wiring parts and a plan where to mount everything under the hood.Ok, this may be a really dumb question: The wires that come with the control box relocation kit (3 black ones) look like they're about 3 feet long. I assume the 6ft HF wires (inverter kit) are used instead of those to get wiring for the control box/solenoid up into the battery area? If so, I would need to buy 2 of those kits from HF because they only come with 2 wires and the winch motor needs 3, right?
Yes, somewhere up "earlier" in the thread... you use the original long red wire from the winch and the 2 black wires from the inverter kit (one of them will act as your yellow wire). The "short" red wire from the original winch will go from the battery to the solenoid. If that doesn't make sense I can draw it out.
It's not necessary. There are various reasons that a few do it for.
Yep.So anyone going in tomorrow to use the 25% off Memorial Day coupon to get a new winch? I bought one when it was on sale a few weeks back, but nothing says extra Jeep parts like $70+ dollars back in my pocket.
