Oil Filter Housing ('19 GC LTD but, same 3.6L as our Glads...)

[Labswine]

Whilst I've not had an issue with my Gladiator, my '19 Grand Cherokee Ltd. has come a cropper with this issue.

Yeah, I noticed over the past month that my GC was doing a Harley and leaving her mark on my driveway...shiny evidence after a rain.

Well, today I got the oil changed on it and the mechanic told me that yes, she's leaking oil. Where from?

It's the plastic unit that holds the oil filter. Where it goes into the block (on the upper part of the engine with the GC) either the gasket has gone bad or the unit itself is cracked, hence, the oil leak.

My mechanic has told me he's replaced MANY of these units on Grand Cherokees (3.6L V-6) as well as Wranglers. I'm sure Gladiators aren't far behind

Luckily, I've not had this issue with my Gladiator but, since it was built around the same time (JT 6/19, GC 3 or 4/19) it's something to watch for and be concerned about.

It leaks into the valley around the intake then leaks down the sides of the engine around the trans pan and such, leaking down onto the driveway under the center of the vehicle.

So, if your JT starts acting like a Harley and leaves it's mark where ever it's been parked for a bit, you now know why.

My INDEPENDENT (not the stealership as the warranty has expired due to time, not mileage...a little over 32K on it but, years...) mechanic has quoted the repair as around $1 Grand because of all the labor involved...they actually have to take off the intake to get to it to replace the unit. It's pretty much an all day job.

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[Commodus]

Whilst I've not had an issue with my Gladiator, my '19 Grand Cherokee Ltd. has come a cropper with this issue.

Yeah, I noticed over the past month that my GC was doing a Harley and leaving her mark on my driveway...shiny evidence after a rain.

Well, today I got the oil changed on it and the mechanic told me that yes, she's leaking oil. Where from?

It's the plastic unit that holds the oil filter. Where it goes into the block (on the upper part of the engine with the GC) either the gasket has gone bad or the unit itself is cracked, hence, the oil leak.

My mechanic has told me he's replaced MANY of these units on Grand Cherokees (3.6L V-6) as well as Wranglers. I'm sure Gladiators aren't far behind

Luckily, I've not had this issue with my Gladiator but, since it was built around the same time (JT 6/19, GC 3 or 4/19) it's something to watch for and be concerned about.

It leaks into the valley around the intake then leaks down the sides of the engine around the trans pan and such, leaking down onto the driveway under the center of the vehicle.

So, if your JT starts acting like a Harley and leaves it's mark where ever it's been parked for a bit, you now know why.

My INDEPENDENT (not the stealership as the warranty has expired due to time, not mileage...a little over 32K on it but, years...) mechanic has quoted the repair as around $1 Grand because of all the labor involved...they actually have to take off the intake to get to it to replace the unit. It's pretty much an all day job.

Are you replacing with another plastic cooler or going to the Dorman metal unit? A grand seems a little steep, not sure what your hourly labor rate is but this should not take longer than 2 to 3 hours with air or hand tools if the tech has done before,

 

[jac04]

I've done the job on my JK. It's a relatively straight-forward job, just a PITA and time consuming.

 

[whiteglad]

there are several videos on the job, including one by motor city mechanic. Perhaps the best way to prevent the problem is not to gorilla tighten the oil filter cap. Beyond that and cracks in the housing, the o-ring seals on the bottom of the housing to the engine block can fail.

 

[Hootbro]

Are you replacing with another plastic cooler or going to the Dorman metal unit? A grand seems a little steep, not sure what your hourly labor rate is but this should not take longer than 2 to 3 hours with air or hand tools if the tech has done before,

FWIW, the Dorman all metal unit is not a direct plug and play on our Gen 3 PUG engines. The base will fit but the oil cooler you are expected to take off the removed plastic filter housing will not directly bolt on. You have to find a oil cooler from a Gen 2 Pentastar oil filter/cooler assembly.

Doorman does not catalog this unit for our Pentastar Gen 3 PUG engines.

 

[jac04]

FWIW, the Dorman all metal unit is not a direct plug and play on our Gen 3 PUG engines. The base will fit but the oil cooler you are expected to take off the removed plastic filter housing will not directly bolt on. You have to find a oil cooler from a Gen 2 Pentastar oil filter/cooler assembly.

Doorman does not catalog this unit for our Pentastar Gen 3 PUG engines.

The Dorman 926-959 complete unit shows as applicable to the JT according to their web site:

 

[Hootbro]

The Dorman 926-959 complete unit shows as applicable to the JT according to their web site:

Cool, that is new then. They originally and still sell the housing without the cooler that still requires the Gen 2 parts.

 

[Medical_Bartender]

Funny you mention this. I changed the plugs/coil packs on my JK about a month ago and saw a bit of oil pooling down by where the filter housing meets the block at the base of the filter. Figured it was just oil drip from changing the filter. Never had any drips or spots under it.

Fast forward to earlier this week when I worked a night shift and my JK slept outside in below freezing temps. Cranked over the next morning and heard a weird noise and by the time I got home and parked I had oil all over the side of the transmission and bellhousing. I’m almost certain this stupid plastic housing is my issue. Ordered the aluminum one off rock auto along with some Mopar gaskets and will be doing this job within the next week.

It does seem pretty straightforward, just annoying that I have to rip apart the top intake area again when I already had it all off less than a month ago. On the bright side I just turned over 100k on the odometer so I guess it’s lasted longer than most. These heat cycles and cold weather really don’t play nice with plastic.

 

[Artsifrtsi]

I was thinking the Baxter adapter would fix this, but you'd still be at the mercey of the plastic housing...

 

[Hootbro]

I was thinking the Baxter adapter would fix this, but you'd still be at the mercey of the plastic housing...

I agree that the housing could be better designed and/or made out of better material. IMHO though, the lions share of the problem with cracked housing and leaks is not following the 18 ft-lbs cap torque spec and using a proper torque wrench on the cap every time. Cannot count on quickie lube, dealership techs or even the shade tree mechanic with self proclaimed calibrated arm of "snug" to not over torque it and crack the housing.

 

[jac04]

...
IMHO though, the lions share of the problem with cracked housing and leaks is not following the 18 ft-lbs cap torque spec and using a proper torque wrench on the cap every time.
...

Agreed on the torque. On both my JK and JT, I use my small in-lb torque wrench set to only 120 in-lbs (10 ft-lb).

The interesting thing is that many people on the Wrangler Forum jump on the bandwagon of cracked housings, but I've never seen anyone post evidence of an actual crack or actively leaking crack. IMO, it is the o-ring type seals that are responsible for the leaks. I replaced the oil filter housing/cooler assembly on my JK only due to a sensor failure, and I found the attachment screws just barely snug and my seals were just starting to weep oil.

Either way, IMO, over-torqueing the filter cap is detrimental to the plastic filter housing.

 

[Labswine]

So, it's good to remember that there's a torque setting for these things. 18 ft.lbs. I'll remind my mechanic.

I'm wondering if this was caused by them...this is only the 2nd oil change with this mechanic who've I used for many years as did my Father so maybe the first time they did it, they over tightened it and this is the first time it's manifested itself? Then again couldda happened at the stealership on one of the last ones they did

I remember whenever I changed my own oil in past jeeps, I would only tighten the filter as 'hand tight' or whatever I could do by hand. Though, the next oil change I still needed the filter wrench to get the old filter off, but still, each time it was only hand tightened and I never had a leaking issue.

 

[whiteglad]

There is no need to go even as tight as 18 ft lb. Lightly grease the o-ring on the cap, and snug it down,

 

[ecidiego]

I agree that the housing could be better designed and/or made out of better material. IMHO though, the lions share of the problem with cracked housing and leaks is not following the 18 ft-lbs cap torque spec and using a proper torque wrench on the cap every time. Cannot count on quickie lube, dealership techs or even the shade tree mechanic with self proclaimed calibrated arm of "snug" to not over torque it and crack the housing.

Right tighty..... righty loosey!

 

[Hootbro]

So, it's good to remember that there's a torque setting for these things. 18 ft.lbs. I'll remind my mechanic.

I'm wondering if this was caused by them...this is only the 2nd oil change with this mechanic who've I used for many years as did my Father so maybe the first time they did it, they over tightened it and this is the first time it's manifested itself? Then again couldda happened at the stealership on one of the last ones they did

I remember whenever I changed my own oil in past jeeps, I would only tighten the filter as 'hand tight' or whatever I could do by hand. Though, the next oil change I still needed the filter wrench to get the old filter off, but still, each time it was only hand tightened and I never had a leaking issue.

The metric equivalent torque spec of 25 Newton Meters (Nm) should be embossed already on the oil filter cap.

Another reason I recommend using a torque wrench vs. hand tight (snug) is that the cap and the housing it threads into is some type nylon thermoplastic. The threaded friction engagement of that material does not give the same tactile hand feedback like metal fasteners do and can stretch the threads more easily causing someone to tighten down even more beyond recommended torque values to get that hand "snug" feeling.

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