Pentastar or 3.0l?

[Mac]

Just to add validity to the tow ratings, they are set using SAE J2807 standards, it is not some arbitrary amount, to say the gas engine barely tows itself is ridiculous, it can meet the SAE standard towing 7650lbs, look up the standard it is pretty involved and tests a lot of different areas in a trucks capacity.

Sponsored

 

[Elff]

I've already towed 2100lbs and I could not feel it. I had ACC on and it never went below 7th gear during the 1+ hr drive.

So it's a hell of a lot better than people make it out to be. This weekend I will be doing a full test of my normal Rock Crawling weekend and adding the TJ to that trailer which should bring the total Lbs to ~6000lbs.

I will report back on how it feels.

I will agree, I do lack some information which is why I have asked the same question in 3 different ways and also put up a challenge to try and get more information and an actual comparison.

Information is good. I definitely do not have anywhere near enough and will not claim to.
Just trying to have a conversation.

 

[ilovebikes99]

Just to add validity to the tow ratings, they are set using SAE J2807 standards, it is not some arbitrary amount, to say the gas engine barely tows itself is ridiculous, it can meet the SAE standard towing 7650lbs, look up the standard it is pretty involved and tests a lot of different areas in a trucks capacity.

I think it's just a personal thing. To me it feels like a dog. But then again I come from higher performance vehicles. You might be totally fine with it.
If I was getting a truck for towing 50% of the time, I wouldn't get a Gladiator at all.
3.6 underpowered (in my opinion), diesel may have issues in high temperatures. I definitely wouldn't want to see oil above 235F towing.
I also think for my type of infrequent light towing, diesel will do a better job.

I've already towed 2100lbs and I could not feel it. I had ACC on and it never went below 7th gear during the 1+ hr drive.

So it's a hell of a lot better than people make it out to be. This weekend I will be doing a full test of my normal Rock Crawling weekend and adding the TJ to that trailer which should bring the total Lbs to ~6000lbs.

I will report back on how it feels.

I will agree, I do lack some information which is why I have asked the same question in 3 different ways and also put up a challenge to try and get more information and an actual comparison.

Information is good. I definitely do not have anywhere near enough and will not claim to.
Just trying to have a conversation.

I agree, like I said above, it's probably a personal thing where you like how the 3.6 runs and I don't. To me it's way underpowered and doesn't fit what the Gladiator is to me.
All in all anything above a 15sec quarter mile is a slow vehicle and both gas and diesel are above 15sec.

 

[Elff]

I also want to use the Gladiator by itself with a RTT for camping when I am not towing
So it checked off more boxes than just being a dedicated tow rig

 

[CerOf]

235 oil temp isnt crazy. It’s a turbo charged engine.
My wrx was 215 daily driving.
spirited driving, safely, on public roads saw 240ish. If it went to the track? Likely 250+

Heck, a n/a vette runs 260+ at the track.

 

[ilovebikes99]

235 oil temp isnt crazy. It’s a turbo charged engine.
My wrx was 215 daily driving.
spirited driving, safely, on public roads saw 240ish. If it went to the track? Likely 250+

Heck, a n/a vette runs 260+ at the track.

It's just me! On bikes I never let it go over 212F.

 

[Suszynch]

Well, had a gas JLUR and now a diesel JTR I'd say going from a manual to the zf 8 speed was the biggest factor but I love that the diesel isn't a hard-working engine. Sure there will be some extra upkeep and initial cost. Never felt the Pentastar didn't have enough power (had the minivan 3.8l 6spd jeep before as a comparison) I just wasn't a fan of how hard I had to work it to turn the oversized tires and found long trips tiring listening to the engine while pulling mountain passes. I do dramatically get better fuel economy in the diesel (granted I haven't modded the total sh*t out of it yet vs my wrangler) averaging 27.5mpg highway vs the 16mpg on a good day with the wrangler.
the jtr isn't lifted yet still running the stock Falken 33s. But aftermarket bumper and 12k warn, often carrying a couple of hundred lbs in the back while driving through the hills.

I'd say avoid the hype and do what you want and what your budget allows. I honestly believe that oem wants this engine to succeed and will support the platform the best it can during the supply chain issues of today. Also, don't think you'll save money with diesel, you're paying for the additional power/torque.. which it has plenty of

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Step 1: Don’t buy a Jeep for towing backhoe loaders, 24ft. Airstreams or double decker horse trailers. Buy a 3/4 truck with dualies.

Step 1.5: Don’t be named Brad or Casey, live in Canada or the South West. Don’t put gorilla decals on your Jeep either

Step 2: Get the diesel because it’s better in basically every way.

Step 3: Get GEICO mechanical breakdown insurance or an extended warranty from Ice T.

Step 4: Immediately buy new springs or a lift because your diesel will bottom out driving over pebbles and dense air.

Step 5: If Jeep neglects to send you your complimentary Australian Shepard, buy one or a Cattle Dog to ride in the truck.

Step 6: Only buy platinum DEF because you’re a discerning gentleman and can tell the difference between two jugs of clear liquid.

Step 7: Get a scan gauge so you can watch your truck go into regen right as you start up the trail at 5 MPH.

Step 8: When the EGR and DPF fail throw them in the f’ing garbage and then drive to Canada to get it tuned.

Step 9: Try to work the terms EGTs or passive regen or DPF or SCR or complaints about the EPA, into every conversation until everyone hates you.

 

[Elff]

So I am curious
Why can't you just pee in your def tank and then add water?

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

So I am curious
Why can't you just pee in your def tank and then add water?

You can but only if you’re a cow, I think.

 

[Elff]

Normally when a car is misbehaving, people say it is running like $hit

So when an Ecodiesel is running bad, do people say it is running piss poor?

 

[spiveyracing]

I like my 3.0 rubicon, but if you are trading in a 2.8 colorado you will be disappointed. Or at least I am. the 2.8 got better milage around 29 average for me. the 3.0 gets 24 average. the 2.8 was quicker than the 3.0 but the 3.0 is way better looking and will go places the 2.8 would squat and pee in fear.

 

[Rick_Jame55]

Trying to decide between a mojave with the 3.6 or a diesel rubicon. I know there have been a lot of concers surrounding the 3.0l lately and I don't tow a lot. I've just always been a diesel guy and I loved my old baby duramax Colorado (even though I likely won't be able to delete and tune my JT) just trying to rationalize getting one. What's yalls opinion?

As all on here have said. What is your priority first and for most. Then budget. The torque is unmatched in the price range and if not get a Banks derringer and Pedro monster. Game Over, at that point. You’ll probably be pushing close to 550ft lbs of TQ at 1500rpm. NO I DONT NOT HAVE A PRINTED DYNO RUN TO PROVE IT. But my foot to ass to brain meter sets of the grime indicator every time! And with 20 mpg with 37’s and 2.5 Mopar lift. I will put mine up beside any other configuration for a game of “Follow the leader.” And that’s all I got to say about that. Get the Diesel and smile. I did and do!

 

[alpineovernappa]

I'll start by saying I've put 15k miles on my ecodiesel in the last 6 months, from Maine to the Keys and everywhere in-between. Long time jeeper, last rig was a 3.6. I love the 3.6, but its simply underpowered for a heavy rig. Even a stock JT rubicon has to double or triple downshift to pass. Yes you can re-gear, but then your RPMs are high at highway speeds. The cost of that regear will also be about half of what the diesel engine upgrade is if you pay a shop to do it. The higher the RPMs, the faster your engine wears, the worse your MPG will be. I wholeheartedly disagree with everyone saying not to buy the diesel if you tow. If you tow below ~5k lbs the diesel will be incomparably better at towing. Low end diesel torque is king here. If you regularly tow at or above ~5k lbs, the 3.6 is better (only because cooling becomes a factor), but realistically you should consider a different vehicle altogether. Don't buy the diesel because it gets better MPG, it will cost you more in the long run. Buy it because it has more torque than you'll ever need, because it gets a real world range of 425-525 miles per tank on-road(unmodified sport S), and because its simply more fun to drive (unless you're looking at a 6MT 3.6). I haven't had any diesel related issues in the last 6mo/15k miles. I'm a mechanic and the forums darn near scared me off of the diesel before I bought one. There are a couple of people who have had diesel specific issues, but the vast majority of us with the 3.0 are happy as can be. Drive both and you'll see how vast the difference between the two power plants is.

 

[willhonkforparts]

Trying to decide between a mojave with the 3.6 or a diesel rubicon. I know there have been a lot of concers surrounding the 3.0l lately and I don't tow a lot. I've just always been a diesel guy and I loved my old baby duramax Colorado (even though I likely won't be able to delete and tune my JT) just trying to rationalize getting one. What's yalls opinion?

If you're already a diesel guy, GET THE DIESEL. One, as a diesel guy, you're already familiar with, comfortable with, and able to handle some of the quirks it comes with. Two, you will never be happy with the lack of torque from the 3.6 and listening to it scream at redline trying to get up the hills will drive you insane. Three, the diesel clatter.

Sponsored