Planning my bobbed JT build - Advice Needed!

[binarypie]

Hi friends!

I'm planning out my rock crawling bobbed JT build. This wont be a daily driver and will likely live in the lap of luxury of my shop/garage when not being bashed against rocks. So a lot of the general creature comforts aren't needed. However, since my last build was a 2012 JK 2-door I have a lot of questions as I don't know what concepts carry over well.

High Level Build Plan
I have a lot more planned than this but none of it matters for this discussion.

• 3/3.5" Rock Krawler Coilovers all 4 corners
  • Triangulated rear
  • 4-Link front for drive-ability
• D60s front and rear
• Anti-Rock swaybars
• Bobbed Bed
• 40" tires / Beadlocks

Is the manual really as bad as they say?
l really wanted a manual since I wont daily drive this thing but my general searching around JTs and rock crawling specifically say the automatic is just a billion times better. Is this true?

60s from day 1 - Rubicon (for t-case) or Sport (w/ Atlas)?
This is the question that is haunting me. An Atlas is like 5k plus my time to install it. Used well kept low millage JT (2020-2023) really don't vary a lot between models. It seems prudent to just get the Rubicon regardless and save myself the hassle. Thoughts?

Gearing for 40s?
I know I could google this but I'll just ask. For the gas engine what are people running for gearing on 40s? 4.88? 5.13?

Color: Hydro Blue, Punk'n Orange, Gecko Green, or Sarge Green?
I can't make up my mind feel free to throw your opinion into the mix.

Thank you!
~ BP

Bonus photo of my JK

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[Rahkmalla]

Is the manual really as bad as they say?

I love my 2022 manual with stock (non-recall) clutch... for simple offroad and daily driving. if i were to develop an interest in crawling rocks i would absolutely not use that clutch. The transmission itself is great IMO, the stock clutch is poo for technical driving

60s from day 1 - Rubicon (for t-case) or Sport (w/ Atlas)?

price differential between a sport and a rubicon is way more than the cost of the t-case (about 8k more at MSRP). and since you're not keeping the axles, seems a bit like a waste.

Gearing for 40s?

4.88 and 5.13 are commonly suggested gears for 37s. I have no experience myself, but reporting the generally accepted knowledge of others says you want to go shorter than that for 40s.

Color: Hydro Blue, Punk'n Orange, Gecko Green, or Sarge Green?

Gobi or Gator if you can find one.

Is there a specific reason you want a bobbed gladiator over a JLU? Cause i gotta be honest, i've never understood the point of bobbed gladiators. You turn the bed into a tire carrier (especially with 40s) and the gladiator has absolutely nil in interior storage space.

 

[drewcnit]

So my Gladiator is bobbed on tons and 40s, I have D60 front and 14 Bolt rear from ECGS, 5.38 gears. ARB lockers. 40 spline axle shafts.
Beadlocks are KMC, Tires are 40x13.5x17 Mickey's, Steering is RPM and PSC, Lift is the Rock Krawler 4.5" Adventure Pro-X.

Transfer case question - Rubicon if staying a V6, Sport if you are swapping to a Hemi.

No input on the manual, as I bought an automatic intentionally this time. Mine is my daily, although I don't have a commute.

Flexy ramp fun when the build was finished, pre-PSC ram -

 

[Free2roam]

Ain't seen her in quite awhile on here but try contacting @Kindafearless did her own work #kindabadass

 

[Kindafearless]

<3 @Free2roam

Still around, just been working my other car more the last year Almost done with a k-swap then the plan is to start work on a flatbed with gear storage for my Jeep.

There are pictures in my build thread and some tips if you want to look for some of your subjects.
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/practical-truck-for-the-over-prepared-woman.38771



Suggest: Gear to 5:38s for 40s.

I also suggest 4.5” lift for 40s or you will likely rub at full stuff unless you are doing something fancy with your fenders or axle width. I tried them at 3.5” too, had to bump it up an inch after tearing a couple fenders off.

If you are on any sort of budget: Consider Beadgrip over beadlock. I have never lost a bead and I don’t deal with broken bolts connecting scrape plates like all my bead lock friends do.

You can run the stock axles for a long time if you don’t hammer the gas for everything. I still haven’t broke mine.

For sway bars, I broke a ton of brackets before welding a universal mounting bar through the frame. Learn from my mistakes, please!

Good luck with your build!

 

[binarypie]

I also suggest 4.5” lift for 40s or you will likely rub at full stuff unless you are doing something fancy with your fenders or axle width. I tried them at 3.5” too, had to bump it up an inch after tearing a couple fenders off.

I'm not worried about my fenders. If I run any at all. This is a dedicated rock crawling rig.

If you are on any sort of budget: Consider Beadgrip over beadlock. I have never lost a bead and I don’t deal with broken bolts connecting scrape plates like all my bead lock friends do.

I just looked this up. I love the style and looks awesome. I need to learn more.

You can run the stock axles for a long time if you don’t hammer the gas for everything. I still haven’t broke mine.

I'm going to sell the stock rubicon axles, sway bars, transfer case, and the entire interior to help pay for axles and a twin stick.

For sway bars, I broke a ton of brackets before welding a universal mounting bar through the frame. Learn from my mistakes, please!

Good luck with your build!

Plan was anti-rock just to avoid all that mess.

 

[GladiatorOfGrids]

How much you want for the Rubicon Axles? Also are you planning on taking off the rubicon fenders as well? I’m looking for those as well.

 

[nbennettksu]

I have a [sport] manual:
-spicer front d44
-front and rear elockers
-4.5" teraflex mid arm kit, front antirock
-40" beadlocks
-I have 5.13 gears, but as others have mentioned 5.13 or 5.38's for 40"
-mine is gobi in color but 100% would do it over again in any green <3

I took it to Windrock for thanksgiving last year and I did better than a diesel rubi and gas rubi (both automatics). Maybe I took better lines, maybe not, but I had to get winched out less.

Sport and Rubi manuals have a different crawl tc ratio than automatic. I'm looking for a Rubi manual TC to pop up, but no, I love my manual. I stall out in it way more than my M3, but its probably because its a lot touchier lol.

I'm bobbing this summer, too, and adding a rear antirock, eventually switching to a long arm.

 

[Janster]

If you’re doing all that…… with 40’s, Dana 60s’….

You’d better start thinking about a proper roll cage. And if you don’t want racing harnasses now, design the rollcage so you can mount them later.

I never hear anyone talk about rollcages these days. Is that something nobody does anymore? It’s probably a bitch and really expensive to design one around these new rigs.

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