Proximity door locks retrofit on Wrangler/Gladiator, someone figured it out (DIY writeup)

[Kevin_D]

hehe to all that are worried about the cold.. Um just take the doors off and take them inside. Do it in the living room.

You've not met my wife...

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[Plumbob]

I read up on green locktite, the best solution without heating it above 300-400 degrees is to add some more green locktite to the bolts and wait 10 minutes. It will soften up and all release. It doesn’t look cheap online.

 

[jtforrester]

I am working on this now and cannot pull the window up loose after loosening the 10mm bolts. Anyone have any tricks? I have them nearly all the way out but cannot get the window to lift up. At the 9:10 mark in the video on page 1 of this thread the person says to "pull back on these clips." What clips? I cannot feel any clips? When I do find them, which direction do I pull? Does "pull back" mean pull towards the back of the door? Pull back towards my hand?

Thanks in advance for any help. It stinks to be stuck at this one spot after waiting months to get this going.

 

[gt3mike]

The blue thing and the white thing are the "clips". The clips are attached to the window, and the bolts are attached to the regulator. Once the bolts are threaded out enough (a lot), push in on the bolts and you will push the regulator away from the clips. Then lift up on the window. The clips will slide out of the bolts.

 

[gt3mike]

SUCCESS!! I managed to get the passenger side done without shearing the regulator bolts. It wasn't easy! I had to get the bolts out a turn or so, then spray some wd40 on the threads, then thread them back in to get the wd40 into the nut. Do it a few times and they start to loosen up. You may have to repeat half a dozen times or more before you get get the bolts out far enough to clear the clips.

 

[jtforrester]

The blue thing and the white thing are the "clips". The clips are attached to the window, and the bolts are attached to the regulator. Once the bolts are threaded out enough (a lot), push in on the bolts and you will push the regulator away from the clips. Then lift up on the window. The clips will slide out of the bolts.

Thanks, that is what I thought. I managed to get the window up, I just didn't have the bolts out far enough. I loosened them until they started getting hard to turn and stopped because I didn't want to snap them. I ended up using a hair dryer to warm up the bolts, they came out easily after several minutes with the hair dryer blowing on them.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Did anyone notice that in the YT video, he removed the front bolt completely and left the rear bolt out just far enough to get the regulator loose from the window?
I wondered - why take it clear out - unless it came out so easily he simply didn't stop it in time.

 

[gt3mike]

I wondered - why take it clear out - unless it came out so easily he simply didn't stop it in time.

I think that was exactly it. He may have even said that. You have to back it way out.

 

[jtforrester]

Just completed my install. Comments:

• I did the driver side first, it took about two hours with a lot of the time spent trying to get the window bolts loosened enough to pull the window up. The method that worked for me was to loosen the bolts until they started to get snug, then blow hot air on them with a hairdryer. After a few minutes of the hairdryer blowing hot air on the bolts, while keeping the hairdryer blowing on them, I worked the bolts in 3/4 turn then slowly out until they got snug again. I repeated this until the bolts were out far enough. They needed to come out a long way, nearly all the way out, before I could pull the window up.
• A couple of my harness connectors were very hard to disconnect--the door harness connector at 4:50 in the video and the window motor connector at 9:40 in the video.
• I followed the advice of @Clark222 in post #64 of this thread, which was very helpful: "don’t put the door handles on until you are ready to connect the wire. It is much easier to feed the wire through the handle hole and plug it in outside of the car."
• I enabled proximity door locks with my Tazer; I did not use JSCAN.
• Since it was kind of cold here today, I took the door off and brought it inside and did everything up to the point where I had to lower the window to disconnect it. At that point I took the door out to the garage, put it on the truck, and lowered the window. Then I brought it back inside to finish the remaining steps.
• Like I said above, the driver's side took about two hours. The passenger's side only took about 45 minutes, maybe an hour, because I knew better what the steps were (didn't need to watch the video before each step) and I had a plan for loosening the window bolts.

Link to video (the same one linked many times in this thread). Thanks @BlueCT for creating this thread!

 

[Kevin_D]

Well, there you go @ShadowsPapa :
A hair drier and WD-40 should do the trick!
Now if I can get a non-rainy (or snowy) day...

 

[drBassman]

Did anyone notice that in the YT video, he removed the front bolt completely and left the rear bolt out just far enough to get the regulator loose from the window?
I wondered - why take it clear out - unless it came out so easily he simply didn't stop it in time.

I had to remove BOTH bolts completely in order to get my glass loose from the clip.

 

[mmatthie]

@jtforrester...you have convinced me just to try the indoor thing and get it done. Nothing like a little xmas project for me this weekend. Thanks

All - I don't have a programmer to change my settings after the fact, but my dealership said they would make the adjustment for me. UNTIL I GET THE DEALER ADJUSTMENT is there something that just won't work until then? I mean will the windows still function? I'm guessing just the passive feature won't work until the switch?

 

[Joebbaseball]

@jtforrester...you have convinced me just to try the indoor thing and get it done. Nothing like a little xmas project for me this weekend. Thanks

All - I don't have a programmer to change my settings after the fact, but my dealership said they would make the adjustment for me. UNTIL I GET THE DEALER ADJUSTMENT is there something that just won't work until then? I mean will the windows still function? I'm guessing just the passive feature won't work until the switch?

You should be fine. As long as everything is plugged in properly, and you didn't bend the pins as I did, everything should work except the passive feature.

 

[Taking Betts]

You should be fine. As long as everything is plugged in properly, and you didn't bend the pins as I did, everything should work except the passive feature.

Hey Joebaseball, which pins did you bend? I installed the drivers (LF) side handle, cap, 333AF cable harness, programmed prox entry using Tazer a couple of days ago and get NOTHING from the handle.

 

[Joebbaseball]

Hey Joebaseball, which pins did you bend? I installed the drivers (LF) side handle, cap, 333AF cable harness, programmed prox entry using Tazer a couple of days ago and get NOTHING from the handle.

Great question, but if you are able to bend the harness from the Jeep to get a good clear picture it'll be quite obvious. I got the best picture in the daylight and simply twisted it a 1/4 turn or so. I actually had 2-3 bent. I just used a screwdriver to line them up with the others. Once I did the door lock all the sudden started working. I had previously already programmed the door via JScan.

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