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Rear diff locker sweating?

Carlos_lara96

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So I was servicing my 2022 gladiator Mojave and I noticed there is some oil leak from what I believe to be the electronic diff locker connector.
Any ideas what might cause this? Will this affect it if I don’t fix it right away?
Also worth mentioning a couple months back I installed a teraflex diff cover and used the OEM gasket, but the cover itself doesn’t seem to be leaking any oil.
Jeep Gladiator Rear diff locker sweating? IMG_3811
Jeep Gladiator Rear diff locker sweating? IMG_3810
Jeep Gladiator Rear diff locker sweating? IMG_3809
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DylanM

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The flatter design of that cover may be splashing more fluid towards the locker sensor than the stock unit. This may be a concern given the sensors seem to be prone to oil intrusion which can cause them to fail.

Something else that comes to mind is to ask how much fluid you put in the axle. Did you use the inspection port shown in the picture as the fluid level reference, possibly leading to an over full condition?
 

Not2Late

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My Mojave looks exactly the same! And I have not changed the cover or fluid yet.
 

Hootbro

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I run the same Teraflex covers and they do not recommend running the stock gaskets like you are using and call for RTV only.

I tried to use the factory gaskets also and had mist staining and eventual drips until I just went RTV as they recommend.
 

Dougstdig

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I run the same Teraflex covers and they do not recommend running the stock gaskets like you are using and call for RTV only.

I tried to use the factory gaskets also and had mist staining and eventual drips until I just went RTV as they recommend.
I'm about to leave to pick up a set of these from the Jacksonville, FL 4-Wheel parts Northern location. Would you still recommend these covers? How's the clearance from the tie-rod?
 

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Hootbro

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I'm about to leave to pick up a set of these from the Jacksonville, FL 4-Wheel parts Northern location. Would you still recommend these covers? How's the clearance from the tie-rod?
Hindsight being 20/20, probably would have gone with another type cover that allows me to use the factory gaskets.

These covers are still quality and tough and no real complaints from a functional perspective, just a bit of a pain getting them on and off for fluid servicing as I have a later model with no drain plugs on the axles.

One other niggle is that on the front cover with the top inspection port cover plate, it is tight clearance with the track bar going across it and you may need to remove the track bar or jack the front and let the front suspension droop if you want access to that cover. No clearance issues with the tie rod arm.

The overflow check plug is kind of small if you expect to service fluid into the diff from it.
 

Dougstdig

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Hindsight being 20/20, probably would have gone with another type cover that allows me to use the factory gaskets.

These covers are still quality and tough and no real complaints from a functional perspective, just a bit of a pain getting them on and off for fluid servicing as I have a later model with no drain plugs on the axles.

One other niggle is that on the front cover with the top inspection port cover plate, it is tight clearance with the track bar going across it and you may need to remove the track bar or jack the front and let the front suspension droop if you want access to that cover. No clearance issues with the tie rod arm.

The overflow check plug is kind of small if you expect to service fluid into the diff from it.
Thanks for the reply in advance...

Yeah, not being able to use newer technology sucks, but then again every tool kit should include some Permatex...LOL Not sure why the factory gasket isn't compatible, but it is what it is.

Mine is is '21 and I have no drain in the front, but do in the Rear. I can remember the day after I purchased I was over a buddy's home that has a shop. We gave it a good once over and spent a crazy amount of time looking for the front drain. I just couldn't believe it...LOL I've since seen plenty of posts / videos where the drain on "bottom" of the differential was backed out by contact and always thought it was a definite design deficiency. Removing it was better than having it and attempting to keep the differential as smooth as possible. While I'm sure it's happened, I haven't seen where it's been an issue in the rear. The one I have on the rear drains to the side, not straight down if I remember correctly.

I'll be jacking from the frame to gain access.

>>>I ended up calling ahead, glad I did, as their website stated it was in stock, but wasn't. So I looked on the AMAZ. and it saved me just under $40 doing so. The rear was priced in the $140's...and both will be here Tuesday, giving me time to get where I need to go. ***Interestingly, when I just checked the pricing on the rear jacked back up to the high 170's, so I guess pricing is fluid and timing is everything.

Now, what fluid to go with. I've tried and tried to get on the Amsoil bandwagon, but for the life of me can't figure out why no one ever has it in stock. Absolutely horrible marketing and company caused supply chain issues. So this leaves me with trying to find the 75w-85. LOL, no one local seems to carry it. And the dreaded 100% synthetic vs "Full or Fully" synthetic deceptive play on words. It's only as strong as it's weakest component. I haven't made up my mind yet...any recommendations would be valued.
 

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Not sure why the factory gasket isn't compatible, but it is what it is.
I think it has to do with the release set screw they build into it. Sits right in the middle where the factory gasket would sit. I tried putting it flush and skimmed it with a dab of RTV in that spot but still leaked for me until I went full RTV.

So this leaves me with trying to find the 75w-85.
Most people go with a 75W-90. Opens a lot more availability and selection.
 

Dougstdig

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Well, front and rear covers were delivered this afternoon and a buddy of mine scored some Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-90 for me, so later this morning I'll go to his shop and do the install.

Initial observations:
DAMN! I only opened the front Teraflex cover and I must say, if I hit something that comes close to damaging this thing the axle housing will pretzel.

Previous posts commented on snapping cover bolts. This unit (#3990744 - JL / JT Tera 44 Front M210 (AdvanTec) HD Differential Cover Kit) comes with cap head bolts. The new instructions states the torque spec for the attachment bolds is 20ft-lbs.

Parton the Snuff can reference, but below are some quick snapshots of the size of this puppy. The bottom lip is molded in such a fashion that there are no concerns of pealing it back when grinding over rocks.

The instructions seem to be very straight forward with one exception. The last photo shows a parts list and #4 is a set screw, which installs in the left center hole of the cover. Other than this, it's not explained...why or how. It's possible that there is a hole cast in the axle surface, but I won't now until I strip her down.

Jeep Gladiator Rear diff locker sweating? IMG_1728


Jeep Gladiator Rear diff locker sweating? IMG_1729


Jeep Gladiator Rear diff locker sweating? IMG_1730


Jeep Gladiator Rear diff locker sweating? IMG_1731


Jeep Gladiator Rear diff locker sweating? IMG_1732


Jeep Gladiator Rear diff locker sweating? IMG_1733


Jeep Gladiator Rear diff locker sweating? IMG_1734


Jeep Gladiator Rear diff locker sweating? IMG_1735


Jeep Gladiator Rear diff locker sweating? IMG_1736


IMG_1737.jpeg
 
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The last photo shows a parts list and #4 is a set screw, which installs in the left center hole of the cover. Other than this, it's not explained...why or how.
Maybe so when it's time to take off the cover, you can tighten the screw to force it to separate from the diff.
 

Hootbro

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Maybe so when it's time to take off the cover, you can tighten the screw to force it to separate from the diff.
That is exactly what it is for. Works well also.
 

Hootbro

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Well, front and rear covers were delivered this afternoon and a buddy of mine scored some Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-90 for me, so later this morning I'll go to his shop and do the install.

Initial observations:
DAMN! I only opened the front Teraflex cover and I must say, if I hit something that comes close to damaging this thing the axle housing will pretzel.

Previous posts commented on snapping cover bolts. This unit (#3990744 - JL / JT Tera 44 Front M210 (AdvanTec) HD Differential Cover Kit) comes with cap head bolts. The new instructions states the torque spec for the attachment bolds is 20ft-lbs.

Parton the Snuff can reference, but below are some quick snapshots of the size of this puppy. The bottom lip is molded in such a fashion that there are no concerns of pealing it back when grinding over rocks.

The instructions seem to be very straight forward with one exception. The last photo shows a parts list and #4 is a set screw, which installs in the left center hole of the cover. Other than this, it's not explained...why or how. It's possible that there is a hole cast in the axle surface, but I won't now until I strip her down.

IMG_1728.jpeg


IMG_1729.jpeg


IMG_1730.jpeg


IMG_1731.jpeg


IMG_1732.jpeg


IMG_1733.jpeg


IMG_1734.jpeg


IMG_1735.jpeg


IMG_1736.jpeg


IMG_1737.jpeg
Below are links to the proper spec replacement o-rings for the inspection cover and oil fill level plug if you are wanting spares.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FYYNL3O

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FYYGXIE

I would also suggest getting a couple cheap long (like 3"+) M8x1.25 threaded bolts from the hardware store and cut the heads off to make some alignment dowels for when you go to install it. Heavy as they are, juggling them one handed with RTV to try and get in place and to start a couple of cap screws to hold it is a bit of a pain if you do not want to smear your RTV everywhere.
 
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Dougstdig

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Below are links to the proper spec replacement o-rings for the inspection cover and oil fill level plug if you are wanting spares.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FYYNL3O

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FYYGXIE

I would also suggest getting a couple cheap long (like 3"+) M8x1.25 threaded bolts from the hardware store and cut the heads off to make some alignment dowels for when you go to install it. Heavy as they are, juggling them one handed with RTV to try and get in place and to start a couple of cap screws to hold it is a bit of a juggling act if you do not want to smear your RTV everywhere.
Fantastic! Excellent idea and thanks for the links.
 

Dougstdig

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Reading the product description for those O-rings is a bit confusing. Written across the Pacific no doubt, it states in part, " EPDM compounds are not recommended for gasoline, petroleum oil and grease, and hydrocarbon environments ." It seems that the EPDM is made more for a seal for a product that may come into contact with something we may ingest or is not petroleum based. The sizing will be useful to maybe cross reference.

While the fluid I'm using is synthetic (100% not fully that use oil/petroleum base compounds) I have no idea what would happen if on road somewhere if I need to do a fluid change and don't have access to an Amsoil product and have to use something else to get home because of water ingestion or something.
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