Rock hard 4x4 rock rails installed

[rvillano8188]

Good to know. Wrangler forum suggests that you loosen them first.. If you break one you contact Jeep and say you found that one fell off while "inspecting the welds." Apparently they can and will warranty if you fight with them. I may call my dealer and see what the cost is to install. If it is $100 may be worth it to not spend hours fighting over a warranty issue. If they charge me $100 and bust a bolt, that is on them. Quite vexed to have bought a vehicle known for aftermarket parts and a dedicated group that customizes and find out that a simple job may become a nightmare.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...rame-mount-rock-sliders-rails-sidesteps.8835/

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...fellow-jl-jlu-owners.4153/page-10#post-298012

getting ready to pull my sliders off today in preparation for my rock hard sliders to show up Monday. I want to make sure I get the hard part done in advance, then get the bolts painted and greased.

Was told that an induction bolt heater was a smart route to go as well, but I don't own one and really don't need one for the money they cost. I'll go the breaker bar route, try not to jerk or twist the bar while loosening, and go slowly. Will report back after I'm done.

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[kevman65]

getting ready to pull my sliders off today in preparation for my rock hard sliders to show up Monday. I want to make sure I get the hard part done in advance, then get the bolts painted and greased.

Was told that an induction bolt heater was a smart route to go as well, but I don't own one and really don't need one for the money they cost. I'll go the breaker bar route, try not to jerk or twist the bar while loosening, and go slowly. Will report back after I'm done.

If you don't want to go through the hassle of cleaning/painting your OEM bolts, then don't.

Rock Hard includes ALL hardware, already painted black.

 

[whiteglad]

On mine, only the front bolts had red loctite; the others were blue but the center bolts were quite tight to remove. It is the kind of loctite that is coated on the bolts when they are made. My rear bolts came out easily, and the fronts were hardest, all the way out. I just paid attention with the breaker bar so I would not exceed the bolt's strength and shear it.

 

[whiteglad]

My Rock Hard bolts were silver cad plated and grade 8.8 vs. stock 10.9. That is why I bought grade 12.9 Allen bolts from McMaster. The American equivalents are grade 5, 8, and 9.

 

[BlackDog]

When I removed my stock bolts, I did one side with brute strength and breaker bar and the other side using a heat gun on each bolt for a couple-3 minutes prior to removing. The heat really helped.

I did have a problem getting one of the Rock Hard bolts to thread back in, so now I have them installed but with five Rock Hard bolts and one OEM bolt (it was tapered and threaded back in easily.) Bothers me that they don't match, but not enough to where I've crawled back under to replace the RH with the OEM bolts so they match .

 

[rvillano8188]

My Rock Hard bolts were silver cad plated and grade 8.8 vs. stock 10.9. That is why I bought grade 12.9 Allen bolts from McMaster. The American equivalents are grade 5, 8, and 9.

Did you happen to know what the torque specs are on the body mount bolts

 

[whiteglad]

No, but based on the size and grade, I hand tightened to around 70-80 ft lb with high pressure grease on the threads.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

I'm planning on copying this and having the guy who's building my Taillight guards to weld on a bar like this to my Rubi rails and then powder coat them. He told me $300 for the Taillight guards and $175 to add a bar like this to both sides of the Rubi Rails. If I do it I'll have $325 total in the Rock Sliders.

 

[DocMike]

I will ask. Worst case we do have a few jeep places in town. It is just pissing me off to think I have to worry about snapping a bolt on such a basic task.

Good luck on the dealer install. Quoted shop rate for my dealer is $185 an hour, minimum job is 4 hours to them.

 

[DocMike]

Interesting convo with a local dealer today. Had to call them anyway because two bolts fell out of the plastic on my roll bar, drivers side rear... Service was "we have never heard of body bolts snapping let us get you to parts...." Parts guy was like "yeah...Why would they use red loctite at all? But I see your concern. If we break a bolt it's on us." He quoted my $100-$150 for the hour to hour and a half it would take but wanted to see the sliders and talk to his service manager to be more accurate.

 

[FR33DOM]

Interesting convo with a local dealer today. Had to call them anyway because two bolts fell out of the plastic on my roll bar, drivers side rear... Service was "we have never heard of body bolts snapping let us get you to parts...." Parts guy was like "yeah...Why would they use red loctite at all? But I see your concern. If we break a bolt it's on us." He quoted my $100-$150 for the hour to hour and a half it would take but wanted to see the sliders and talk to his service manager to be more accurate.

Keep us posted! I’m going to be doing mine in the next month. I’m also here in the springs!

 

[DocMike]

I just had my first "piss off price" from the same dealer. $900 for installing Rubicon Shocks and Springs. I will be doing that at school on the lift. Perhaps we need to do a Rock Slider party.

Keep us posted! I’m going to be doing mine in the next month. I’m also here in the springs!

 

[whiteglad]

Sure, if the dealership breaks the body bolts, they will fix it. I would rather not break them and have to butcher the body tub. There is good info on this forum in this thread and in the very long rock rails thread regarding prevention of the problem. If you are experienced and familiar with torquing bolts, you hopefully will be able to remove them without any of them breaking.

 

[DocMike]

I chatted with the guys at Rock Hard too. They are suggesting it's not a as big of a problem that it is being made out to be. They suggest using hand tools and it will go fine. I am wondering strategy wise if it's not best to loosen the body bolts closest to the front first using the back in and out method I have seen. Then do one side at a time.

Sure, if the dealership breaks the body bolts, they will fix it. I would rather not break them and have to butcher the body tub. There is good info on this forum in this thread and in the very long rock rails thread regarding prevention of the problem. If you are experienced and familiar with torquing bolts, you hopefully will be able to remove them without any of them breaking.

 

[rvillano8188]

I chatted with the guys at Rock Hard too. They are suggesting it's not a as big of a problem that it is being made out to be. They suggest using hand tools and it will go fine. I am wondering strategy wise if it's not best to loosen the body bolts closest to the front first using the back in and out method I have seen. Then do one side at a time.

my rails, after delays, will finally be here tomorrow at 10am. I worked on some of the body bolts in preparation for having to remove, and with a breaker bar and patience and sweat, I was able to get them all moving enough where I feel they wont break.

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