Rock Hard 4x4 - rusting skid bolts, very disappointed in customer service

[WILDHOBO]

I'd argue with things like LCAs and track bars alignment and sheer strength are more important than clamping strength. The known issue with track bars on JLs and JTs is a glaring example. There's just too much of a gap between the bolts and the holes/bushings. It's common to upgrade to 9/16" bolts and on both our JLUR and JT they fit with no drilling. 9/16" is .2875mm larger than the 14mm factory hardware.

Agreed.

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[Pliny]

And now that I see @Pliny paid $100 before shipping in 2024 for new bolts for the lca skids, that may change what skids I buy in the first place. I'm not sure if that covered bolts for the shock mount skids.

Belmetric is where I order metric bolts from.

I was pissed that (at least when I got them) the RH rear shock skids had you re-use the OE bolt, which was too short given the thickness of the skid. Got the first one put on and torqued, then saw that the end of the bolt was inside the nut, not extending at least 2 or 3 threads past as you'd want.

So I said screw it and ordered these:
https://datinfab.com/jeep-gladiator-jt-shock-skids/
which are bomb proof but required even longer bolts.

For me, that rusty rear frame side LCA bolt would draw my eye every time I walked up to the drivers door and would annoy me. Enough so that I was willing to spend the money and do the work to replace all of the RH supplied bolts.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'd argue with things like LCAs and track bars alignment and sheer strength are more important than clamping strength. The known issue with track bars on JLs and JTs is a glaring example. There's just too much of a gap between the bolts and the holes/bushings. It's common to upgrade to 9/16" bolts and on both our JLUR and JT they fit with no drilling. 9/16" is .2875mm larger than the 14mm factory hardware.

And I'd suggest both are needed. If the joint slides, you are hammering only on sheer strength.
There are thousands also getting along with correct torque on stock bolts. Part of the real issue is using the stupid lift kit spec which is too low, lower than factory spec. It's yet another carry-over from years ago. These forums are proof many people don't properly torque bolts and can't figure out torque plus angle. I figured the correct factory spec to be closer to 220 than 190. Big difference.

 

[Zachanadandy]

And I'd suggest both are needed. If the joint slides, you are hammering only on sheer strength.
There are thousands also getting along with correct torque on stock bolts. Part of the real issue is using the stupid lift kit spec which is too low, lower than factory spec. It's yet another carry-over from years ago. These forums are proof many people don't properly torque bolts and can't figure out torque plus angle. I figured the correct factory spec to be closer to 220 than 190. Big difference.

I've never had an issue with the LCAs, but the track bar really takes a lot of force by itself in comparison to the control arms. Especially if you wheel in big rocks on big tires. My control arm bolts are stock. The track bar bolts are upgraded.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I've never had an issue with the LCAs, but the track bar really takes a lot of force by itself in comparison to the control arms. Especially if you wheel in big rocks on big tires. My control arm bolts are stock. The track bar bolts are upgraded.

Again, I suspect we are in the same book, if not on the same page

 

[GladLad]

Belmetric is where I order metric bolts from.

I was pissed that (at least when I got them) the RH rear shock skids had you re-use the OE bolt, which was too short given the thickness of the skid. Got the first one put on and torqued, then saw that the end of the bolt was inside the nut, not extending at least 2 or 3 threads past as you'd want.

So I said screw it and ordered these:
https://datinfab.com/jeep-gladiator-jt-shock-skids/
which are bomb proof but required even longer bolts.

For me, that rusty rear frame side LCA bolt would draw my eye every time I walked up to the drivers door and would annoy me. Enough so that I was willing to spend the money and do the work to replace all of the RH supplied bolts.

Thanks. Reading the RH instructions it looks like the shock skids now include bolts, but the factory nuts that are reused.

Maybe I'm missing something, but it looks like your Belmetric order included 6 bolts. Which should have covered front/rear Lca (4) and shock mount (2) skids. Why did you get Datinfab shock mount skids if you already replaced hardware for the RH kit?

You say the Datinfab require even longer bolts, were they included?

Now that I look under my Jeep though, I might be focusing on the wrong products. I hit frame side of the lca, not really on the axle side. Not saying I shouldn't consider both, but wrong focus.

 

[Pliny]

Maybe I'm missing something, but it looks like your Belmetric order included 6 bolts. Which should have covered front/rear Lca (4) and shock mount (2) skids. Why did you get Datinfab shock mount skids if you already replaced hardware for the RH kit?

I have the RH front and rear axle side and frame side LCA skids. The front frame side skids are still using the OE bolts and nuts.

I immediately uninstalled that one RH shock skid. Never ordered longer bolts for them.

You say the Datinfab require even longer bolts, were they included?

Yes.

 

[ssrlewis]

The rust on those bolts are going to tear up the nylon in the nuts when you remove them. And I would recommend removing and replacing the bolts and new lock nuts.


Steve

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