Rock Hard 4x4 - rusting skid bolts, very disappointed in customer service

[ShadowsPapa]

I used to have those bolts in my skids. One control arm had its bushing sleeve seize to it. I was pretty unhappy. I’ve since replace all, or almost all of them with zinc flake bolts. If there are any remaining, they are bathed in Antiseize.

The bolts on my knock-off bumper - those button head screws and such, rusted after a year - until I cleaned, prepped, and plated them in black zinc. No more rust.

I've had bolts seize into the leaf spring bushings and had trouble removing the springs from the frame - that's some real trouble. You have to cut things apart.

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[WILDHOBO]

The bolts on my knock-off bumper - those button head screws and such, rusted after a year - until I cleaned, prepped, and plated them in black zinc. No more rust.

I've had bolts seize into the leaf spring bushings and had trouble removing the springs from the frame - that's some real trouble. You have to cut things apart.

I did. Lots of fun with sawzalls.

 

[WestwallNF104A]

Well, I just left Rock Hard HQ. They very kindly opened on a Saturday for me so I could pick up a new aluminum bumper and some skid plates, so in my world that is OUTSTANDING customer service.

Many thanks to the two Jason's for helping me set this up!

 

[Zachattack50]

After having more than one of my factory mopar full thread bolts cause issues from chucking around in my track bar, and an lca, i switched all my hardware to a Grimm offroad kit with full shanks. I also grease all by bolts before assembly. all is good now.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

After having more than one of my factory mopar full thread bolts cause issues from chucking around in my track bar, and an lca, i switched all my hardware to a Grimm offroad kit with full shanks. I also grease all by bolts before assembly. all is good now.

If things are fully torqued, there can be no movement for things to "chuck around".

 

[Zachattack50]

If things are fully torqued, there can be no movement for things to "chuck around".

Track bar was "fully torqued" still would shift under pressure, once it moves once its game over. It's a common issue with full thread bolts.

 

[Zachattack50]

I will grab calipers when I get home and get the exact diameter difference from the mopar threaded version and the full shank version.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Track bar was "fully torqued" still would shift under pressure, once it moves once its game over. It's a common issue with full thread bolts.

Fully threaded = tap bolt. that's the technical name but no one uses it.
Full thread bolts are for applications that require more grip strength.
the force is more evenly spread over the length of the bolt and it's used where more grip strength is needed.
I know Jeep people do the opposite, but.............. there's a reason the factory does what it does and it's not "money" in that case, it's engineering.



From a bolt company -

Why choose a fully threaded bolt? If you’re most interested in grip strength and less interested in alignment and shear strength, a fully threaded bolt is going to be your best option. Once mounted, a full thread bolt spreads pressure along its entire length, with the largest holding pressure placed on the head where it meets the material it fastens to.

Often used in the automobile industry to design vehicle frames, full thread solutions distribute the mounting pressure of a car’s panels across the length of the entire bolt thanks to the full threading. Where grip strength is more critical compared to alignment or shear strength, full threads are your go-to.


Grip strength is what holds things together, clamping force. But do whatever............


(don't use that 190 lb/ft people keep using on the LCAs - that's not tight enough - factory specs are tighter than that)

 

[Zachattack50]

Interesting tech info for sure. Ill take less tq, with a peoper fitting shank, than balls tight with a couple mm gap. I don't think the mopar engineers planned on me wedging a 110lb 37 into a rock either, soo.....

 

[Zachattack50]

Here is the diameter difference in the bolts. I believe this, with the added force of a heavy wheel tire combo, different geometry than stock with the lift kit, and paper thin track bar mount material caused the issue. Since switching to the full shank, and plating my track bar mount I have had zero issues even when wheeling hard. Relying completely on clamp force is adequate the oem design its not if your actually going to push your rig.

 

[ericw.]

So is RH4x4 good to go, or are people avoiding them due to the finish problems?

I was looking at their rear bumper because it wraps around the bed sides.

 

[Zachattack50]

So is RH4x4 good to go, or are people avoiding them due to the finish problems?

I was looking at their rear bumper because it wraps around the bed sides.

I will let you know hopefully tomorrow. I have their rock sliders coming for ours.

 

[SoCal Gunner]

So is RH4x4 good to go, or are people avoiding them due to the finish problems?

I was looking at their rear bumper because it wraps around the bed sides.

I have that same bumper for the same reason. I didn't experience any issues and they actually answered the phone when I called to line up shipping.

 

[ericw.]

I have that same bumper for the same reason. I didn't experience any issues and they actually answered the phone when I called to line up shipping.

How long have you had it installed?

 

[SoCal Gunner]

How long have you had it installed?

2 yrs.

Also installed their aluminum front bumper. Pricey, but it offsets some of the weight of adding a winch.

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